Stuttering when driving.

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I had an issue with mine after it sat for a bit, the tank got pressured up from the heat and I think it flooded the engine out
Also make sure the plug is actually firing, pull it out hook the wire back up and ground it to the engine and pull it over and make sure it’s sparking
I had an issue with my plug wire in mine too and it was intermittent firing
Also check/bypass the toggle switch and fail safe unit some people had issues with them
If it’s sparking good and you think maybe it’s a fuel issue squirt some down the plug hole and try to fire it up
If it starts then dies then it’s a fuel supply issue
Now that it’s winter out you prob have to retune it
I doubt the engine is toast if it ran fine two weeks ago and now suddenly won’t
 
harrington81 said:
Who the heck are u? I’ve been in the 1/5 scales for a long time dude. Mabye not the greatest with engines but I’m good at everything else.
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Im going to go creep some of your threads.
harrington81 said:
Hey deathrawt, your in Canada right? Would u be interested in buying another Raminator. I’m selling mine right now. Tired of it.
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Refresher?
 
Were you able to figure out what the problem is on the engine and get it going?
I really don't get why some guys on here have to be jerks to others, it really gives the forum a bad name and it discourages people from wanting to be a part of our hobby, and be a part of an online community
best to just ignore the bad apples and don't let them get to you, lots of good people on here with useful advise
 
deathrawt said:
Were you able to figure out what the problem is on the engine and get it going?
I really don't get why some guys on here have to be jerks to others, it really gives the forum a bad name and it discourages people from wanting to be a part of our hobby, and be a part of an online community
best to just ignore the bad apples and don't let them get to you, lots of good people on here with useful advise
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Thanks buddy. I’m trying your advice out today and see if it works.
 
deathrawt said:
Were you able to figure out what the problem is on the engine and get it going?
I really don't get why some guys on here have to be jerks to others, it really gives the forum a bad name and it discourages people from wanting to be a part of our hobby, and be a part of an online community
best to just ignore the bad apples and don't let them get to you, lots of good people on here with useful advise
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Yep she fired right up with the gas in the chamber and it kept running. So if it won’t start sometimes I’ll do that.
Thank u very much
 
RickDizzle said:
What did you determine to be causing the issue? Was it a fuel draw issue then? Not had the issue myself, but knowledge is power.
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I’m not entirely certain but I think the switch that switches forward to back wasn’t on forward. It was in neutral. Not sure if that had something to do with it.
 
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deathrawt said:
I had an issue with mine after it sat for a bit, the tank got pressured up from the heat and I think it flooded the engine out
Also make sure the plug is actually firing, pull it out hook the wire back up and ground it to the engine and pull it over and make sure it’s sparking
I had an issue with my plug wire in mine too and it was intermittent firing
Also check/bypass the toggle switch and fail safe unit some people had issues with them
If it’s sparking good and you think maybe it’s a fuel issue squirt some down the plug hole and try to fire it up
If it starts then dies then it’s a fuel supply issue
Now that it’s winter out you prob have to retune it
I doubt the engine is toast if it ran fine two weeks ago and now suddenly won’t
Click to expand...
If your tank is making enough pressure to lift the needle off the seat there is something wrong with the needle,seat, the pop off pressure is too low, or your tank is making in excess of 20psi, possibly even more as stock pop pressure is typically 30+psi. At any of those pressures you'll see tank deformation.
Checking spark with out a spark tester tells you nothing. It doesn't simulate the load the coil experiences even at starting speeds, let alone when the engine is running. Spark testers are very cheap.
deathrawt said:
Were you able to figure out what the problem is on the engine and get it going?
I really don't get why some guys on here have to be jerks to others, it really gives the forum a bad name and it discourages people from wanting to be a part of our hobby, and be a part of an online community
best to just ignore the bad apples and don't let them get to you, lots of good people on here with useful advise
Click to expand...
Ever have to answer the same questions over and over again? Ever repeatedly correct bad diagnostic information? Doest mean your a bad apple just means your stuck in groundhog day......
 
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There was a lot of pressure in the tank, more then I thought there would ever be
It's possible it overcame the pop off press. I am running an 1107 carb on the stock raminator engine and have a DDM aluminum fuel cap
Next spring when i get the truck back out I am going to put in a separate vent on it so it won't pressure up again
How does checking spark using the actual spark plug not simulate the load on the coil?
It would be no difference if the plug was screwed into the head or grounded up against it
If I wasn't using the plug I could see your point, I think I do have a spark plug tester somewhere just need to find it
harrington81 said:
I’m not entirely certain but I think the switch that switches forward to back wasn’t on forward. It was in neutral. Not sure if that had something to do with it.
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Which switch are you talking about? I don't quite understand
was it the toggle on the right side that was stuck in the middle?
 
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deathrawt said:
There was a lot of pressure in the tank, more then I thought there would ever be
It's possible it overcame the pop off press. I am running an 1107 carb on the stock raminator engine and have a DDM aluminum fuel cap
Next spring when i get the truck back out I am going to put in a separate vent on it so it won't pressure up again
How does checking spark using the actual spark plug not simulate the load on the coil?
It would be no difference if the plug was screwed into the head or grounded up against it
If I wasn't using the plug I could see your point, I think I do have a spark plug tester somewhere just need to find it
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The plug is firing in free air when it's out of the engine. Not under compression full of fuel, and not even close to the temperatures of a running engine. It the equivalent to riding a bike down hill. It doesn't take any effort, you need to ride the bike uphill to see if you have the power.
The ignition system is just along for the ride on easy street. Hence why a ignition tester is needed. It properly loads the ignition system to simulate a running engine.
Stock carb is 30+psi pop pressure. Check the needle and seat for damage. The needle should hold 20psi basically indefinatly. Higher really at stock pop pressures.
This is the spark tester I have,
Echo PET4000EC Spark Tester https://a.co/exj7H36
It's about the best on the market. But I also keep an El chepo in the saw box for quickies. Not as nice, but just as effective.
Thexton THE404 Spark Tester https://a.co/8DEvTQQ
Just need to keep your finger away from the ground clamp. It will wake you up in a hurry.
 
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Jeez I was just telling the guy how to check for spark the easy way, like 99.9% of hobbyists would do it! lol
don't need to make things any more complicated then they need to be.
I will check out that spark tester thanks for that. I would like a good one to use on my Mopar V8 engines.
The MSD ignitions hurt when you get zapped lol
 
deathrawt said:
There was a lot of pressure in the tank, more then I thought there would ever be
It's possible it overcame the pop off press. I am running an 1107 carb on the stock raminator engine and have a DDM aluminum fuel cap
Next spring when i get the truck back out I am going to put in a separate vent on it so it won't pressure up again
How does checking spark using the actual spark plug not simulate the load on the coil?
It would be no difference if the plug was screwed into the head or grounded up against it
If I wasn't using the plug I could see your point, I think I do have a spark plug tester somewhere just need to find it

Which switch are you talking about? I don't quite understand
was it the toggle on the right side that was stuck in the middle?
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The switch in the radio that switches the servo to go forward or reverse. For some reason the switch position up takes a couple times to engage the truck to go forward.
 
Thats a common problem with these trucks but is irrelevant to an engine starting and running issue
Glad you got it started though, did you remove the stock choke by any chance? Primal recommends to remove it as it can let dirt into the engine
my engine would not start easily when I took my choke out and that's why I converted my setup to the 1107 carb as it has a much better choke system then the stock carb does
 
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