t1000 king motor 30.5cc???????????????

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Fireman15

Well-Known Member
Messages
172
Location
Baltimore MD.
Ok no one on this site answered my questions, so im going to be a little more clear Does anyone own a Kingmotor 30.5cc t1000 r/c truck? If so did you upgrade anything on the truck? were there any issues with it? where did you buy the truck? what are the strength, and weaknesses of the truck?
 
I bought one from amazon mix wholesalers, this is my 3rd purchase from them no issues,
as for the truck i bought the T1000 30.5 2 speed, the one thing i did check on receiving the truck, was the shocks,and tightened all the screws/nuts i could find that where loose,oiled the air filter.
i ran it for the break in period and a few tanks of fuel, after that i changed the carb and the plug,and i changed the radio gear to what i use,
other then that the truck ran pretty good,but it was 13 degrees here that day so i did break an arm with a nice spin out and hit a curb,but they sent spares and it was a quick 10 min fix.going to change the steering crank assembly it's a lil wobbley,
but other then the arm and crank issues i found the truck is not bad at all,
 
Kill switch
TR top plate
Chassis kick up brace
TR clutch system
Clipless front hubs/Uber RC
New Servos/Radio
RPM arms
Outerwears


don't really need to go mad on parts...
The small list above will do the job.



Andy :)
 
chitown joe said:
I bought one from amazon mix wholesalers, this is my 3rd purchase from them no issues,
as for the truck i bought the T1000 30.5 2 speed, the one thing i did check on receiving the truck, was the shocks,and tightened all the screws/nuts i could find that where loose,oiled the air filter.
i ran it for the break in period and a few tanks of fuel, after that i changed the carb and the plug,and i changed the radio gear to what i use,
other then that the truck ran pretty good,but it was 13 degrees here that day so i did break an arm with a nice spin out and hit a curb,but they sent spares and it was a quick 10 min fix.going to change the steering crank assembly it's a lil wobbley,
but other then the arm and crank issues i found the truck is not bad at all,
Click to expand...

How fast is it. What carb did you change it to? How do you do that? So you would say its a good truck as good as the famous Hpi brand?
 
how fast? i did not do any speed checks,all i did was take it out to the park and let er' rip. the carb? i use on all my 1/5 rc is the walbro wt-813. as good as hpi?i never owned a hpi 5t so i cant do a complete comparrision but visually comparing other the brand stickers and badging ,if it did not have any on it you would not no any difference.

"How do you do that?" how did i do the parts change over? what do you mean? you buy the parts and change them,
and how much? `the carb and plug both where $34 together,but i bought 5 carbs from DDM when they where are sale at $29 normally they are $45, the plugs i went to orielly auto parts $2.51 each ngk cmr7h(3066), the radio gear i have for 3 yrs so that would be a mood point to add the price of that since i just pulled that from my other r/c's and re-configured it for this r/c.
 
chitown joe said:
how fast? i did not do any speed checks,all i did was take it out to the park and let er' rip. the carb? i use on all my 1/5 rc is the walbro wt-813. as good as hpi?i never owned a hpi 5t so i cant do a complete comparrision but visually comparing other the brand stickers and badging ,if it did not have any on it you would not no any difference.

"How do you do that?" how did i do the parts change over? what do you mean? you buy the parts and change them,
and how much? `the carb and plug both where $34 together,but i bought 5 carbs from DDM when they where are sale at $29 normally they are $45, the plugs i went to orielly auto parts $2.51 each ngk cmr7h(3066), the radio gear i have for 3 yrs so that would be a mood point to add the price of that since i just pulled that from my other r/c's and re-configured it for this r/c.
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Is it the same as an Hpi? ive heard that the differentials are different, and ive also heard that the plastic is cheaper/ thinner i guess. could you post some pics of your truck.
thanks.
 
Take the time to research it. A few hours reading through the complaints should be well worth it. From what I have read the common issues are;
electronics-servos and radio system
engines-bearings
plastics-control arms
bodies-shatters, cracking is better than shattering

I have never owned one. But like I mentioned in other threads, if it was offerred in a roller(no body, no engine, no electronics) I would consider one to take with me to work.
 
one2boost said:
Take the time to research it. A few hours reading through the complaints should be well worth it. From what I have read the common issues are;
electronics-servos and radio system
engines-bearings
plastics-control arms
bodies-shatters, cracking is better than shattering

I have never owned one. But like I mentioned in other threads, if it was offerred in a roller(no body, no engine, no electronics) I would consider one to take with me to work.
Click to expand...

Can you send me a link to the above listed complaints
Thanks.
 
To be honest I don't know exactly where I read some of these complaints. I did these searches a while ago here, RC Universe, HBF(before they took down the clone section), etc... Like I mentioned, if you have the good part of the day to go through page after page of various threads on different forums, it will be enlighting to say the least. If I see some threads I will post them up. Not sure how the mods will like the idea of linking threads to other sites.
 
Fireman15 said:
Can you send me a link to the above listed complaints
Thanks.
Click to expand...
DUDE! I don't want to sound rude, but GOOGLE is your friend bro. LOL The truck is going to be as solid as you make it/allow it to be. If you take it out and smash it into a brick wall, it will break. If you watch where you drive, don't try to jump it over your house and let the dog chew on the tires, I don't think you will have any major issues.

I simpathise with you Fireman, you got screwed out of a 5T by a low life scum sucking person in Lithuania that needs to be beated, stripped naked and drug through the streets in the middle of a ice storm but you need to do some of the research for yourself, its easy.

If you are really concerned about it, call Dan out in Pearl River, NY. He is a great guy, although he is out to make money off selling these KM vehicles, he is also willing to stand behind them if there is a major issue.
 
i don't think of this truck as a clone, hpi is made in china also,probly in the same factory.integy alloy upgrade parts are made by hitec machining in china, they also make the alloy parts for hpi,km,rovan,gh, and most other brands they will package etch and brand your own alloy parts how ever you want them, reminds of back when hpi had the dash out, but i would find new bright and other brands selling a dash also, identical,
so i look at hpi, king motor, rovan, golden vehicle, trc etc.as all being there own brand they may sell baja's that look the same, but each company builds or requests how they want there baja built,hence the plastic parts difference,stickers engines, etc.
 
Baja_Matt said:
DUDE! I don't want to sound rude, but GOOGLE is your friend bro. LOL The truck is going to be as solid as you make it/allow it to be. If you take it out and smash it into a brick wall, it will break. If you watch where you drive, don't try to jump it over your house and let the dog chew on the tires, I don't think you will have any major issues.

I simpathise with you Fireman, you got screwed out of a 5T by a low life scum sucking person in Lithuania that needs to be beated, stripped naked and drug through the streets in the middle of a ice storm but you need to do some of the research for yourself, its easy.

If you are really concerned about it, call Dan out in Pearl River, NY. He is a great guy, although he is out to make money off selling these KM vehicles, he is also willing to stand behind them if there is a major issue.
Click to expand...

OK thanks for all the help. Here it the deal I had a traxxas Tmaxx 2.5 nirto rc truck, this thing gave me nothing but problems. I babied the hell out of it, and drove it around a football field up the street from me. It would stall out, go into high idle without warning and wouldn't start at times. I replaced the ez start with a pull start, and that only allowed me to rip the skin off my fingers. I bought a os 21 TM engine from japan, and tried that it worked for a while then everything started happening again. so i was fed up with rc stuff and sold it all including, 2 other t maxx trucks. While i was on an r/c website i found a 1/5 scale truck and I was very interested so thats my story i guess
 
no matter what you get , the ones you had already or a hpi or km or rovan 5t or 5b's they will all break, on yah, if ya treat them too roughly, its the nature of the beasts, i will say my KM T1000 has been really good, no breaks except the PS, and so have alot of others had this ps prob too, so get a new one with truck, one with the collar around pawls, those seem to solve the issues of pawl cocking sideways and jamming and tearing up the ps. other than that, yes a km may have bolts and nuts that will require going thru and loctiting correctly, bearings are sufficient to start with, but look at getting a TFE full set to replace them with. other points include possibly beefing up the tranny, i swapped mine for the alloy split diff, mine come with metal diff, so i was good there, but still needed to put fluid in it, it was bone dry. axle boots, be prepared to rip a few off, things like above listed are just the norm for ANY of the big 5t or 5b trucks, so just get used to it.
 
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