Thinking about a Raminator Electric Conversion with HW Max4 and a Johnny Crash Racing direct drive questions

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RCSteve

Well-Known Member
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86
Location
Sacramento, CA
Hello, I was wondering about changing my rig to be a 12s electric monster truck and I need to know how much I'm going to effect longevity. Will the electric direct drive stress the drive train too much, with electric brakes and the disk brakes removed? Or do I need to keep the mechanical brakes and mechanical reverse? Is this just asking for trouble? Has anyone else out there done an electric conversion? Also I was advised by RickDizzle to do the "diff mod, you will be repairing diffs, I would also add the brass bushing at the output shaft end and lastly buy extra tranny parts."
Where can I find information on said Diff mod and the brass bushing at the output shaft? Youtube?
Any other suggestions?
Thanks for the help.
So the diff mod starts here: https://www.largescaleforums.com/threads/rickdizzles-raminator-build.25853/post-342304
And the brass bushing: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HSSVWS..._pop_mob_b_asin_image&tag=largescaleforums-20

Sorry I was bad with the search
 
Last edited:
Well at least here is a picture of a custom stand for a Raminator, a little eye candy to help the comments. Not the final version, just the current one.
 

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RC Sparks put the johnny crash racing setup on his Raminator and he had a couple issues with the coupler part that attaches to the motor
Jonny Crash updated the part and it was good after that
He put a ridiculous esc/ motor setup in it and was having electrical issues last I saw. He was trying to make the truck a speed run truck and it couldn't handle it
I think he put one in his mega truck too but he made that one into a low geared trail truck so the electronics worked ok in that one
I thought about putting the primal rc electric conversion in my mega truck but decided to keep it gas powered and ordered the HO GP46 for it instead
The electric conversions are going to be harder on the drive train due to the instant torque of the electrical motor so doing the diff mod and adding the brass bushings is a good idea.
buying spare shafts for the tranny wouldn't hurt either, and spare driveshaft pins and axle pins
A good ESC and motor shouldn't have any issues doing the braking on the truck, the max4 should be good
 
I saw that on RC Sparks, the trail truck has the Fine Design conversion and the speed truck has the JCR setup. In my older age I realize going for ridiculous power is how everything breaks. I figure the Max4 should be a good compromise of good enough power and longevity. Messing around with a MGM 1000Amp ESC seems a bit overkill, also not cutting the chassis is a plus.
 
Going electric with jcr pre ordered kit. Alot of them on utube seem to work great?? Can get ride of so many moving parts and crap brakes? Imo if you drive it stupidly any one of them will brake down? Been having nothing but problems with stock set up from new. Have like 2 hours on it.. Truck is a shelf queen now..
 
Hi there, I realize I am sort of out in the fringe since my E-ram is not very close to a standard model, but some random notes and observations I have about going with an electric conversion:
  • The stock mechanical brakes seem to be mostly adequate on gas engine models- both the stock engines and most aftermarket or highly tuned ones... but it seems they are just not really great at all with most electric setups... I noticed some people stick with mechanical brakes, while others used electronic. My solution was to skip the mech brakes completely and go with a homebrew mineral oil hydraulic setup using mountain bike brakes as the basis. I widened out my calipers to fit the thicker discs that Primal uses over the thinner 2mm units mountain bikes use.
  • The Max4 ESC is pretty good and I have been happy with it so far. Liquid cooling just does not seem necessary for it. The entire base of the ESC is made of aluminum and it has four M4 screws tapped into its bottom. You could theoretically mount it to more aluminum with some thermal conductive grease to give some better cooling and let it radiate more efficiently.
  • I feel like most people are under-speccing their batteries far too much. A pair of 6S 9000mAH packs is just not enough to keep the Max4 and 70125 motor happy. At the very least it should be getting 15000mAH. My 6WD is running 8S 20000mAH and even though that doesn't feel like enough, the batteries are nice and cool after their run afterwards. This is one reason why it seems so common that people are making spicy pillows out of their batteries, because the most common setup seem to be only 6800mAH packs.
Well these are just my quick observations. I did the diff mod but have not taken the truck out long enough to make any long term assessments yet. Good luck with your setup whatever you end up with!
 
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