Tired of the layshaft gear loosening up? Here's how to fix it.

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nice one! i think it's fair to say that won't come loose at all.. i suppose the only disadvantage with this is should the gear mesh drift apart cos the engine has moved and the gear strips, you'd have to get another layshaft n all, but as we all know, they're cheap as chips on ebay!! worth doing :)
 
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Loctite 601 or 603 bearing retainer is the stuff to use on gears, square drives and any other parts you don't want to come loose (my wallet for example).

Mike
 
I have red loctite in 50 gallon barrels with a hand pump... :lol:

I have used red loctite many times on this layshaft gear and the grub screw would back out in a couple of days, even after allowing the truck to sit for 24-48 hours. I welded up the layshaft gear on my Marder clone last year and I have thoroughly thrashed that buggy close to it's death and the shaft is holding up perfectly...

I use red and blue (Namebrand) loctite on every fastener on my vehicles, it works well for everything except these grubs in the l/s gear. If the motor is just slightly out of square it will vibrate the hell out of the layshaft and work the screws loose. bad bearings in the carrier will do the same. So I replaced those while I was in there too.
 
601 & 603 are the dark bluey green loctite that you need a blowtorch to make it release and in 8 years of racing I've never had an issue other than me being stupid and not using it after changing gears or a rebuild but I can only speak for the loctite brand as it's the only stuff I've ever used.

Mike
 
Mine is like it's welded on, I guess I am going to have to get the torch out to heat it up... :lol:

Bad thing is i welded this together and the teeth are so shot it barely makes full contact with the ring gear... I had to lengthen the slots for the engine mounting screws so I could shove the motor back.

All is well now.
 
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Best thing someone could come up with for this issue would be a square ended layshaft and a gear that also had a center square instead of round. This would allow them to go together as normal but never round off the grub since the stress would be on the shaft and not the grub. The grub would only be there to keep the gear in the spot you want it.
 
ive tried all those methods including drilling a dimple into the layshaft but the best way i found is to locktite and screw the grubs in evenly and they never come loose or slip
 
ive tried all those methods including drilling a dimple into the layshaft but the best way i found is to locktite and screw the grubs in evenly and they never come loose or slip

That is the key! Tightening evenly. If you run one down as tight as it will go, when you tighten the second one it will "loosen" the one already tightened. I run both grubs down until they are snug, then tighten 1/8 of a turn alternating until each is tight.

However I did consider welding the one on my old Monster Beetle!LOL
 
If I had (which I didn't) the layshaft gear wouldn't come into contact with the ring gear on the diff... Have you ever had one these apart? :dots:
 
Hi!
it's new for me 1/5 scale, i've bought a use 2x4 Monster FG for about 2 weeks.
I have this problem, my layshaft don't touch enough my diff gear, someone can help me, should have to replace part or it possible to adjust it? :confused:

Thanks
 
There a few ways the gear can be off, latterly and longitudinally.

With the truck facing forward and you sitting behind it, where does the gear need to go to make contact? Back towards you, or to the left or right?

If it needs to come back toward you I will explain how to fix that.

You can start by loosening up the 4 motor mounts on the bottom of the chassis. You don't need to take them out.

(These are pics of my buggy because that's what I have in the house with me and it's too cold to go out and take pics of my FG MT. The pics should be close enough for you to get the idea of what to do.)

Loosen these 4 screws, but don't take them out.
Marderinthesnow102.webp

Then you will need to REMOVE this screw on the side of your truck. You should have alloy side plates on the sides, this screw holds the side plate to the motor.
Marderinthesnow107.webp

REMOVE this one too. Again you will have a side plate here.
Marderinthesnow108.webp

Then remove this one. (screw in the very center of the pic.)
Marderinthesnow105.webp

Then these two. These 2 screws hold the gear plate, mine is steel, yours should be alloy/aluminum.
Marderinthesnow106.webp

Now your motor should be flopping around on the chassis. Pull the motor back by hand and see if it tightens up the mesh between the layshaft/transfer gear and the ring gear. If it does, put 2 small scraps of paper in between the gears and pull the motor back to squish the paper in between the gears. Make sure the motor is sitting straight (just eyeball it) and while pulling the motor back, crank down the bottom chassis screws. Rotate the gears to release the paper and check your gear mesh again. If it's tight with just a "Tick" of clearance in between the gears, then reinstall the screws you removed and your done.

If the layshaft gears needs to move side to side, let me know and I'll give you a step by step for that also.

Let me know how you make out.

Trip..
 
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Hi!
Wow, a step by step with pictures, it will be very helpful.
It's really what i need, i will try that in the afternoon.
I have another question, i see on one picture a DTX logo on spur gear is that mean that gear come from a Firehammer(19toothX48tooth), is that fit?
Because i have one in part in a box.
Thank you very much :w00t:
 
This is in fact a Firehammer gear, but it's on my buggy. This gear WILL NOT work on the Mt or any other FG product. The pitch of the gears are different on the clone buggies. (Smartec, XTM, Dutratrax, HobbyPro, Carson) I am in the process of switching all the plastics over to FG for the added strength. FG parts are German and the clone parts are :chinese: You know how the Germans build everything, compared to the :chinese:! :lol:

Let me know if you need any help :)

I guess i was smiley happy today?
 
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