Twin Pipe experience
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KevTrem
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First thing people are going to say is it restricts your engine and you will loose power.
I've never seen one fitted but have seen on various facebook posts that people have issues fitting them with certain bumpers, cages etc etc. I think they are a fit the best you can and change it out asap.
I've never seen one fitted but have seen on various facebook posts that people have issues fitting them with certain bumpers, cages etc etc. I think they are a fit the best you can and change it out asap.
Bandit2013
Well-Known Member
I have that on two Bajas. They are a female dog to install, that I would agree. I do not have a negative option on them but also have no experience with other brands to compare too. Sure, they look interesting and are not ear piercing loud but may not be up to par on performance. I am not getting any issues with it but will try something else just for kicks.
The rear upper bulkhead will be the interference fit area. Let alone the tab used to secure the pipe onto the rear chassis plate. You need to bend the tab for better fit. As for the rear upper bulkhead, better to use the alloy part vs plastic as it will need to be modified. I was able to fit this on the Rovan RV360B-35. As for the remaining plastic parts in the rear bumper and the rear tower, that can also be an issue. There was no room to use the short heat sink on the header. If used, the rear bulkhead will not fit. This pipe is OK but I have not been in this hobby long enough to weigh in what would be better.
Also used same on a new build using mostly RCMAX/Taylor parts (transmission housing, rear bulkhead assembly, and rear tower. Pipe is resting on the RCMAX rear shock tower supports as they are bulky vs the multi-piece assembly. That was a tight fit, but the rear upper bulkhead was not an issue when I had the Rovan 36cc engine on it. Swapped that out to an ESP-Zenoah G340RC which did make installing a bit tricky. When I made the engine swap, I had to remove some aluminum on the rear bulkhead for pipe clearance. I thought getting the roll cage in was a total pain but once you figure it out, not all that bad. The rear bumper is a Rovan part. I did try the steel one with the wheels on it, no way that would fit.
Performance is OK. Seems to work well for top end speed. Not sure on the launch though. I have not yet seated the ring in the Zenoah but for the 1/2 tank I ran thus far I, it is difficult to say if the engine is being held back. I can say the Zen is insane on a performance perspective for a heavy vehicle. The new build weighs around 38lbs and the Rovan weighs around 29lbs. I may try another pipe when I opt to convert over to a Taylor RC 35cc engine. At that point I will ditch the Rovan parts except for the roll cage. Not fond of plastic.
I rebuilt the King Motor 002 but used the stock exhaust (thor). Barely any room for the throttle/brake linkage to move as it will hit the pipe on full throttle. Not as heavy as the dual exhaust but also had its fitment issues and that was a stock part that came with the King motor.
The rear upper bulkhead will be the interference fit area. Let alone the tab used to secure the pipe onto the rear chassis plate. You need to bend the tab for better fit. As for the rear upper bulkhead, better to use the alloy part vs plastic as it will need to be modified. I was able to fit this on the Rovan RV360B-35. As for the remaining plastic parts in the rear bumper and the rear tower, that can also be an issue. There was no room to use the short heat sink on the header. If used, the rear bulkhead will not fit. This pipe is OK but I have not been in this hobby long enough to weigh in what would be better.
Also used same on a new build using mostly RCMAX/Taylor parts (transmission housing, rear bulkhead assembly, and rear tower. Pipe is resting on the RCMAX rear shock tower supports as they are bulky vs the multi-piece assembly. That was a tight fit, but the rear upper bulkhead was not an issue when I had the Rovan 36cc engine on it. Swapped that out to an ESP-Zenoah G340RC which did make installing a bit tricky. When I made the engine swap, I had to remove some aluminum on the rear bulkhead for pipe clearance. I thought getting the roll cage in was a total pain but once you figure it out, not all that bad. The rear bumper is a Rovan part. I did try the steel one with the wheels on it, no way that would fit.
Performance is OK. Seems to work well for top end speed. Not sure on the launch though. I have not yet seated the ring in the Zenoah but for the 1/2 tank I ran thus far I, it is difficult to say if the engine is being held back. I can say the Zen is insane on a performance perspective for a heavy vehicle. The new build weighs around 38lbs and the Rovan weighs around 29lbs. I may try another pipe when I opt to convert over to a Taylor RC 35cc engine. At that point I will ditch the Rovan parts except for the roll cage. Not fond of plastic.
I rebuilt the King Motor 002 but used the stock exhaust (thor). Barely any room for the throttle/brake linkage to move as it will hit the pipe on full throttle. Not as heavy as the dual exhaust but also had its fitment issues and that was a stock part that came with the King motor.
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Meh, I say DDM's Dominator V2 is a better investment. Sadly I have that pipe, as it came with an engine parts lot I purchased. If this pipe and the original 5T can are my only choices in another "sweep the floor build", I may try it just to see how it performs as I already know how the stock 5t can is.
Dashz
Well-Known Member
These dual pipes sound very BRROOOM BRRROOM
John117
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I'm more interested in advise on fitting. Nothing's seems to line up, need shim bottom of it mount bracket nowhere close. Bandit2013's was appreciated but just seemed to add a lot more cost that I'm trying to avoid. Plus very little stock of aluminium parts here in Oz...
Bandit2013
Well-Known Member
I only ventured down this path because it looked cool, sounds good, and did not know any better. Is it worth it? Probably not. The King Motor Thor pipe was easy install but left little room for the brake linkage. I am surprised the KM30.5cc engine just rips. If you go Rovan or King Motor route, and if it is the pig tail loop type, get the alloy clamp. The cheap metal clips with cotter pin will not hold up to taking it apart. That was the first thing I broke on the Baja. Stock exhaust on the KM002 Deluxe
Here is the original version of the KM002 with the Thor pipe. Also taken before I modified it and slammed a wall. Pipe was close to the roll cage and tower supports. The only pain is the nut that holds the bottom part to the chassis. Much easier to install than the dual exhaust.
I have often wondered what the DDM Racing fast pipe would do for me. Would rather have a huge fart cannon outlet than the 4 tubes. If it works that would be ok. https://www.davesmotors.com/DDM-Dominator-FAST-Pipe-for-HPI-Baja-5b-5t-CHROME-DDM011-Chrome?sc=12
Olimat stuff looks interesting but not wanting a side pipe.
Bartolone racing pipe, another side mount. Not sure on the one's not pictured.
Talor RC, again with the side pipe. I may end up experimenting with some of those, a bit pricey though. I am planning on the Taylor RC 35cc sooner or later. May go a different route or will try the dual since I have it. If I am going to spend X dollars on a new engine, may as well spend X dollars on the exhaust.
Not sure if JetPro is any good.
https://jetpro.com/collections/hpi-exhaust-pipes/products/hpi-track-pipe
Not sure what else there is as far as options. Would like to see performance numbers of various pipe options, including the buget friendly ones. I only started in this hobby this past October. I cannot recommend anything. When it comes to Rovan, KM, TITracing, FID racing, Integy, it can be hit or miss on fitment. The first dual exhaust I got through TIT racing. The second one I bought from Rovan. Workmanship is spotty. Had to file down the weld blobs in the port on the Rovan exhaust. Header plate was also different than the TIT racing version. Probably made by the same manufacturer and sold to other outlets. There is one I can recommend to avoid, it is the one with the large tank and the pipes come out from the side. Sounds like the one of this discussion but not. Probably version 1 of this desgin. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32807631231.html
Here is the original version of the KM002 with the Thor pipe. Also taken before I modified it and slammed a wall. Pipe was close to the roll cage and tower supports. The only pain is the nut that holds the bottom part to the chassis. Much easier to install than the dual exhaust.
I have often wondered what the DDM Racing fast pipe would do for me. Would rather have a huge fart cannon outlet than the 4 tubes. If it works that would be ok. https://www.davesmotors.com/DDM-Dominator-FAST-Pipe-for-HPI-Baja-5b-5t-CHROME-DDM011-Chrome?sc=12
Olimat stuff looks interesting but not wanting a side pipe.
Bartolone racing pipe, another side mount. Not sure on the one's not pictured.
Talor RC, again with the side pipe. I may end up experimenting with some of those, a bit pricey though. I am planning on the Taylor RC 35cc sooner or later. May go a different route or will try the dual since I have it. If I am going to spend X dollars on a new engine, may as well spend X dollars on the exhaust.
Not sure if JetPro is any good.
https://jetpro.com/collections/hpi-exhaust-pipes/products/hpi-track-pipe
Not sure what else there is as far as options. Would like to see performance numbers of various pipe options, including the buget friendly ones. I only started in this hobby this past October. I cannot recommend anything. When it comes to Rovan, KM, TITracing, FID racing, Integy, it can be hit or miss on fitment. The first dual exhaust I got through TIT racing. The second one I bought from Rovan. Workmanship is spotty. Had to file down the weld blobs in the port on the Rovan exhaust. Header plate was also different than the TIT racing version. Probably made by the same manufacturer and sold to other outlets. There is one I can recommend to avoid, it is the one with the large tank and the pipes come out from the side. Sounds like the one of this discussion but not. Probably version 1 of this desgin. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32807631231.html
BCRstudio
Well-Known Member
I agree with Bandit. Is it worth it (not really) unless, you are after the "cool factor", but performance (as well maintenance, since it is a btc to use/install) I see no reason, unless you want to impress friends.
BCRstudio
Well-Known Member
NP.
Best of luck.
Yeah, silencers for these things are not worth it (IMO), most rob performance and do VERY little to dampen sound.
Best of luck.
Yeah, silencers for these things are not worth it (IMO), most rob performance and do VERY little to dampen sound.
John117
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I had no real luck in getting a refund for our pipes so we've decided to forge ahead. haha. Had to make a mounting bracket to the chassis and got a bit of melting on the top plastic brackets. Are these the alloy parts you were suggesting to replace?
Bumper/roll cage
Bulkhead
Bandit2013
Well-Known Member
You do not need to change the bulkhead. The bumper /roll cage part will work. Just a note, I had to grind the area where it hits the pipe for a good fit. There is another one that may fit without having to modify. I saw this when I looked at the provided link. It showed up on the bottom of the page.
If that is the part that is melting. the other components that may interfere with the pipe is the rear shock tower support braces. Here is what they look like. If you have clearance with the braces, you may not need to change them.
I would agree on all counts that the pipe is a female dog to install since it is one piece and does not separate like most exhaust kits.
Take a few pictures of what you have encountered so far, that may help with identifying parts that may need to be modified or changed.
John117
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I wont need the shock tower supports. I had to file down the ends of the roll cage so they cleared the pipe, so may need to upgrade to steel cage.
The steel bumper only lasted one roll over so a rethink is order there too I think. I made a Gal bracket for the mounts but in thru the centre hole in chassis and impedes the skid plate...
I like the look and sound and didn't notice any real performance deficit, it's just a pain and expense issue.
The steel bumper only lasted one roll over so a rethink is order there too I think. I made a Gal bracket for the mounts but in thru the centre hole in chassis and impedes the skid plate...
I like the look and sound and didn't notice any real performance deficit, it's just a pain and expense issue.
