FG Baja RTR

[ROne21]

What do you guys think of the FG Baja RTR? I'm seriously considering buying one and as parts break, I would just upgrage into alloy parts. How durable do you think it is with most of it in plastic? My logic is, if the HPI Baja can take a beating, which is made in Taiwan, the FG plastics are far more superior since they're out of Germany.

Is this a wise decision or should I just go for the Competition right away and get it done and over with? Ideas? Suggetions? Where can I get a good deal?

 

[Large Scale Alloy]

to upgrade from the plastic version to the alloy version as parts break will cost you probably double what it would out front. Some examples of prices. Hydros brakes $425 for each set (total $850) alloy engine mounts ($125) you are already at $975.00 Baja RTR $1499(daves price not ours) plus 975.00 $2474.00. That does not include any of the alloy front end or rear end. It will get very expensive.

 

[ROne21]

I couldn't hold out and almost bought your competition but someone beat me to it. I put a lot of thought into this and with my very limited free time, it would have taken me ages to build the competition and maybe miss the whole summer season. I wanted something to play right now. The RTR was a no brainer for me. I can always buy the competition at a later time....just gotta do a little bit of OT at work :laugh:

So far, 1 tank through it and still very tight. No complaints so far.

 

[ROne21]

This morning's session with by buddy's HPI 5B SS. It was cut short because it started raining.

 

[ROne21]

I had a blast this morning on a baseball field.








Any suggestions on how to clean this? Spraying it with the garden hose and calling it a day is so tempting.

 

[corecrusher]

nice looking car m8 :clap:

u can use the water hose ,but remove every electrical systems ,and avoid spraying it near the filter unit

what i do after every bash is removing all parts .
clean it and put it back together , i totally strip my fg under 10 minutes
for cleaning ,have to say its a bit faster now ,with mostly alu items
if u do it like this ,your gone extend the fg living time for quit some time
have fun and take your time for maintenance :sailor:

 

[ROne21]

nice looking car m8 :clap:

u can use the water hose ,but remove every electrical systems ,and avoid spraying it near the filter unit

what i do after every bash is removing all parts .
clean it and put it back together , i totally strip my fg under 10 minutes
for cleaning ,have to say its a bit faster now ,with mostly alu items
if u do it like this ,your gone extend the fg living time for quit some time
have fun and take your time for maintenance :sailor:

Thanks for the suggestions. Got any pics of your rig?

 

[ROne21]

I can't get my buggy to start. Any suggestions on troubleshooting?

I haven't had any issues with the buggy except one......after WOT(wide open throttle) and I let go of the trigger, if I don't 'blip' the throttle, the engine will shut off. This is after the engine had warmed up and been running for a while. I have no problems re-starting after it shuts off.

For this reason, I thought that maybe if I raised the idle a bit, this problem will go away. I started turning the idle screw clockwise, about 1 and 3/4 turns to 2 full turns. This raised the idle a bit and so I run it. After about 30 seconds or so, it shut off and I could not get it to start again. I've returned the idle adjustment to where it was but that still didn't work. I've pulled the plug off and it was moist with gas. Any help is appreciated.

 

[Large Scale Alloy]

sounds like it is flooded. take off the spark plug and flip her over and pull on the pull start a couple of times. check the sparkplug too while you have it off.

 

[Bigger the Better]

Your motor is probably running a bit rich which is a good thing. When you take the plug out is it, black, white, or tan?

If black you are running a bit rich but that is where I run.
If its white its running too lean, richen it up.
If its tan then you are in the sweet spot for performance.

I would agree with above. It does not take but a few pulls to accidentally flood these small motors. When flooded the extra fuel runs to the bottom of the motor and collects. Once there it makes the motor very tough to start.
Removing the plug, tipping the motor over and pulling 15-20 times allows enough air to enter and the fuel to flow back to the top end and evaporate just enough to help start it up. Make sure to dry the plug completely. Use an air compressor on the plug and it will dry it better.

I would try setting your idle screw back to where it just hits the shaft and just opens the butterfly slightly. From there screw in your (L) screw about a 1/16th. This will lean out the low end just slightly to improve low end performance (Take off) and raise the idle. Then recheck your plug color after 10 minutes of low end running.

Check out the tuning tips here:
https://www.largescaleforums.com/showpost.php?p=23906&postcount=4
https://www.largescaleforums.com/showthread.php?t=2761

 

[team222badbrad]

I just got this same buggy this week and have already busted it up twice with the same problem.

After some air time the plastic spline on the hs-805bb servo spline shears off just outside the servo housing ARGH!

Anyone else have this happen?

 

[SELWA]

I just got this same buggy this week and have already busted it up twice with the same problem.

After some air time the plastic spline on the hs-805bb servo spline shears off just outside the servo housing ARGH!

Anyone else have this happen?

That's the only part that I ever broke on a 805 as well. Did it once but that was on a FG MB during winter. If it continues you might as well get a Rhino or a 5745.

 

[team222badbrad]

If it continues you might as well get a Rhino or a 5745.

or a 805MG...

The rhino and the 5745 have less torque. :-(

 

[lennyktown]

can i ask what did this buggy cost

 

[lennyktown]

never mind found it on ddm

 

[Bigger the Better]

or a 805MG...

The rhino and the 5745 have less torque. :-(

But more holding power and all metal gearing. Cost less inthe long run.

 

[ROne21]

Still can't get the buggy started. Any other ideas? Tomorrow is my first and only day off so I'll head up to my LHS and get a spark plug. I'm going to see if that'll work. Someone told me it could be the magneto. I"m not exactly sure what that is. Can someone chime in and post on how to check the magneto? Thanks.

Your motor is probably running a bit rich which is a good thing. When you take the plug out is it, black, white, or tan?

If black you are running a bit rich but that is where I run.
If its white its running too lean, richen it up.
If its tan then you are in the sweet spot for performance.

I would agree with above. It does not take but a few pulls to accidentally flood these small motors. When flooded the extra fuel runs to the bottom of the motor and collects. Once there it makes the motor very tough to start.
Removing the plug, tipping the motor over and pulling 15-20 times allows enough air to enter and the fuel to flow back to the top end and evaporate just enough to help start it up. Make sure to dry the plug completely. Use an air compressor on the plug and it will dry it better.

I would try setting your idle screw back to where it just hits the shaft and just opens the butterfly slightly. From there screw in your (L) screw about a 1/16th. This will lean out the low end just slightly to improve low end performance (Take off) and raise the idle. Then recheck your plug color after 10 minutes of low end running.

Check out the tuning tips here:
https://www.largescaleforums.com/showpost.php?p=23906&postcount=4
https://www.largescaleforums.com/showthread.php?t=2761

 

[Bigger the Better]

Take the side cover off the pull start side. You will see it there. It is the item that picks up from the rotor. You should only be able to fit a business card between it.
If you take your spark plug out, and pull over the motor it should spark. if not you need a new one. Auto parts stores also carry them but call ahead. CMR7H.

 

[ROne21]

Thanks for that pic, BTB.

I did open up the cover and everything looks to be in place. I took the spark plug out next, pulled the starter and I thought I saw a very faint spark...pulled again, no spark. So ok, maybe the wire is not seated all the way. With my right hand holding the spark plug and the wire, I cranked the motor with my left hand........guess what, yup......electricity is being generated..... :cursing: I hate getting shock :cursing:

 

[benckie]

the following tuning as a STARTING POINT for tuning your engine:

CY

CY23RC / CY26RC / CY27RC / CY29RC / GP290 / CY31 engines with a 668 carb


1 and 1/4 L, 1 and 3/8 H

Or for us simple people 1.1/4 low and 1.5 high

Zennoah

G230RC and G260RC 603 carb

H 1 1/3

L 1 1.5

G240RC and G270RC 813 carb

H 1 1/8

L 1 1/4


Here is some helpful information regarding common carburetor tuning problems:

If your engine stutters at full throttle and cannot reach full RPMs:
The high jet is too far open. Close the jet by turning it clockwise slightly, and then ride-test. If no improvement, repeat until desired results are achieved. Once you have found a workable setting, open the jet approx 1/16 of a turn to ensure sufficient fuel/air mix.

If your engine bogs out when transitioning from low speed:
The high jet is too far closed. Open the jet by turning it counterclockwise until you are at least 1 1/2 turns open, and then gradually close the jet until performance is as desired. Poor engine compression, blocked exhausts, and very heavy engine loading can all also cause bogging.

If your engine idles very fast and kills if you attempt to slow the idle:
You may have an air leak in your intake. An easy way to check for leaks is to spray the intake manifold and area surrounding it with WD-40. If the idle changes after you spray the WD-40, there is an air leak. Common areas for leaks are between the manifold and the cylinder, and between the carb and the intake manifold. Inspect the manifold, carb gasket, and intake gasket for cracks or other signs of damage, and replace if necessary.

If your engine idles but then slowly kills:
Your low jet is too far open. Close the low jet by turning it clockwise until a stable idle is achieved.