I am a motor head and can not stop

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46u

46u

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Location
Macon, Georgia
I only have one large scale vehicle right now my HPI 5b SS. Most of the parts I bought where new that I got at a really good deal so I keep buying and building! Just picked up a new set of bare Zenaoh 4 bolt cases for $25 shipped. How many motors is enough? :rolleyes:

Right now I have-

Motors I have put together
Stock CY 2 bolt 26 that came with my 5b SS Running fine when I took it out.
Race ported 30.5 built with OBR kit 2 bolt CY In my 5b SS now.
Race ported GP 29, 2 bolt CY never in stalled or started

Motors I need to put together
Stock 2 bolt CY 26 Thinking about having the cylinder race ported

Parts I have to build 2, 4 bolt motors all parts new.
CY 4 bolt cases
Zenoah 4 bolt case
2 sets of Team Fast Eddie bearings
2 sets of crank seals
 
If you race it is good to have a spare engine so you are not caught out waiting for replacement parts.
If you only bash around some field then you need no spares as no urgency in getting it going.

A while back i read where a guy wanted to sell his baja for $2500.00 stating he had spent $8000.00 on it.That is a big loss as he could have had a few other vehicles to run and enjoy at the same time.

So the lesson learnt is think what your doing and where your going with this hobby.
 
I have 3 engine together another I have all the parts for and working on collecting parts for 2 more.

Yes I race and when I go to a race even if it is only a day race I take enough parts to just about build a whole other vehicle. LOL. I am hoping to put a OBR pro-stock 27.2 kit in one of the 4 bolt case. The race ported 30.5 I have in it now has to much torque for dirt oval racing. I am going to take the 30.5 out in another half gallon and give the race ported GP290 engine a try.
 
Even if mine is not broken after a race which is most of the time just cleaning, checking it out and maintenance takes me at least 10 to 15 hours. If I am doing a major service even longer. I am real meticulous about keeping mine in top shape. In my 7 or so years of racing 1/8 and 1/5 in the past 3 years I have only DNF a couple of times and one time was the radio not the car.
 
im the same way, i hate ending a day, racing or bashing, because of broken parts. when i used to race 1/10 scale nitro touring i had enough spares to fix almost anything, aside from a spare motor. in summer time we had track days wednesday and saturday evenings, car would get a clean up and quick once over between those days (and by quick i mean around 4 hours), and after saturday night the car would be torn down to a bare chassis and gone right through. aside from a couple motor failures over the years, i never had parts break unless i crashed.

nothing wrong with having a bunch of motors. nice to have a spare for yourself, or be the guy that helps out somebody else who otherwise would end up going home dissapointed after a failure. the 27.2 sounds like a good plan. myself, if the gp29 has never been started, think about selling it, once its been run its not worth much.
 
The race ported GP290 is the next motor I am going to run. I wanted to get at least 2 gallons on the race ported 30.5 before I take it out which I am just about there. One of the reasons I am building so many motors is it is the only way I can find out what suites me best.
 
which engine would you say is best for bashing and alot of wot, i have a 2 bolt 28.5cc(zen bottom,cy head) a 2 bolt 26cc zenoah a 4 bolt 27.2cc zen and a spare zen 23cc cylinder head/piston.at least if one does go,there a spare and i like to keep with zenoah.
 
You say WOT are you looking for top speed? A lot has to do with what pipe you run. All so what gearing are you running as well as what vehicle?
 
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46u said:
You say WOT are you looking for top speed? A lot has to do with what pipe you run. All so what gearing are you running as well as what vehicle?
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just asking in general, since you have tried different stages of tune, this new engine i got from obr is being a right bugger to start,tried for 2 hours earlia without luck... sounds like its popping, just wont go!!!
 
hyper 78 said:
just asking in general, since you have tried different stages of tune, this new engine i got from obr is being a right bugger to start,tried for 2 hours earlia without luck... sounds like its popping, just wont go!!!
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What engine is it? Did you try to idle it up some and lean the LSN out just a little? When I went to start the engine I built with a OBR 30.5 race ported kit it was a bugger as well. When I did get it started it was so rich I had to lean it out some just to keep it running as well as idle it up some. Even then it was way to rich. See picture below that was after letting it idle for about half a tank. Running to rich during break in is not good as you do not get it up to temperature. So I leaned it out some more. On break in you want to run a little rich but not too rich.

When I got it broke in I had to lean it out past what some say is too lean but it would not run right or even pull off unless I did. That has been all most 2 gallons ago. I would think if something is ported it is more efficient and would take less gas.

Image0020.gif
 
obr 27.2 long rod, if i use choke,it floods within 3 pulls, so ive turned the idle right in and slightly leaned it out and not using choke now , now it pops like it wants to start,( which is better then before) but thats all it keeps doing, ive just took the motor apart and slightly lowered the coil, done the card trick to get gap, just right. will try again tommorrow,jetpro unsilenced too loud at this time! lol.
im hoping to get it going in the morning,theres nothing else i can think of,used a new spark plug, pulse holes are ok,everything nice and tight, will keep trying, i want to run this engine in and see what it has to offer.:)

ps, is the obrrace running properly now or is it still rich, it sure was kicking out alot of fuel on break in!

46u said:
What engine is it? Did you try to idle it up some and lean the LSN out just a little? When I went to start the engine I built with a OBR 30.5 race ported kit it was a bugger as well. When I did get it started it was so rich I had to lean it out some just to keep it running as well as idle it up some. Even then it was way to rich. See picture below that was after letting it idle for about half a tank. Running to rich during break in is not good as you do not get it up to temperature. So I leaned it out some more. On break in you want to run a little rich but not too rich.

When I got it broke in I had to lean it out past what some say is too lean but it would not run right or even pull off unless I did. That has been all most 2 gallons ago. I would think if something is ported it is more efficient and would take less gas.

Image0020.gif
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As I was saying my 30.5 has all most 2 gallons on it and once I tuned it where it would run properly been doing fine. Most say I am running it to lean but the plug looks good and it performs well. No symptoms of running lean.

I do not have a 27.2 but is the next motor I am going to build. Do to racing will not be a long rod or even a full mod. Have learned when racing dirt oval too much power is not the best or at least for me. The one I am going to build will be a pro-stock or race ported.

Yes it might be a good idea to try a new plug in yours. The 27.2 OBR FM, LR should be a very good top end engine.
 
The general needle settings are a rough area to get you going, 2 engines built identical may need different settings on the carb. Your altitude and ambient temp when you run also make a difference.
 
What some motor builders recommend I do not see how the hell you would ever get them started as they are WAY I MEAN WAY TOO RICH! I start out on all my engines at 1 1/2 HSN and 1 1/4 LSN and this has always been too rich more so on some engines then others. These engines and the way the carbs are made are not near as acceptably to temperature, altitude or humidity as nitro engines.

On most out door power tools they make it where you are limited to how much adjusting of the needles you can do unless you modify the limiters. This is because they are close enough for most all locations.
 
what i have found is it seems the needle settings that float around are for a stock engine with stock carb, or the theoretical neelde settings for the carb itself. my toiuring car was the same way, when i put a 990 carb on my cy26 it ran so rich with factory needle settings it would barley run. got it tune correctly, plug looked good, checked the needle settings and going by what people said with it that lean it should have seized. and with engine mods and different port timing it will be completely different.

the numbers floating around are a ballpark starting point. listen to the motor, it will tell you what it wants
 
46u said:
As I was saying my 30.5 has all most 2 gallons on it and once I tuned it where it would run properly been doing fine. Most say I am running it to lean but the plug looks good and it performs well. No symptoms of running lean.

I do not have a 27.2 but is the next motor I am going to build. Do to racing will not be a long rod or even a full mod. Have learned when racing dirt oval too much power is not the best or at least for me. The one I am going to build will be a pro-stock or race ported.

Yes it might be a good idea to try a new plug in yours. The 27.2 OBR FM, LR should be a very good top end engine.
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hi 46u, i changed the coil gap and made it smaller, the next morning it started 1st pull so i left it at that, again woke up this morning,1st pull without using choke it started !!!! well happy!!! Its gone from being a pain in the arse to start t0 1st pull without choke, now ive got time i will put a tank thru it and do a few heat cycles to be on the safe side!

yes it was the best engine that i could find for high speed stuff, ive been told that the jetpro i use is around half a bhp down on the pro pipe, so i should be expecting a peak of 7hp.I guess i should start buying a few spare drive cups,dog bones etc.
 
I beefed up my drive train over a couple of years before I put my first modified engine in mine so I would be ready when I did. The modified engines I have and building will not have the HP yours does as I race and I found out too much power is worse then not enough on the track. LOL
Have fund and make a video once you get a gallon on it or better.
 
46u said:
I beefed up my drive train over a couple of years before I put my first modified engine in mine so I would be ready when I did. The modified engines I have and building will not have the HP yours does as I race and I found out too much power is worse then not enough on the track. LOL
Have fund and make a video once you get a gallon on it or better.
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i agree, i use the hormann on track,that has a 26cc stock engine with a hormann pipe which gives better power then the standard but not as much as a tuned pipe, for me it has plenty of power as grip is an issue , i was thinking of just getting a pipe,but i will leave it standard for now until my driving skills get better, for bashing it is boring,thats why i put this engine in my marder.
Id never even try the obr on track as it will have to much power.I will make a vid as soon as its run in.
 
I know what you mean about bashing. I was just about to sell my 5b do to the only track that runs large scale for about the past 2 years was 300 plus miles one way. At one time that would not have been a problem but in my situation now it is.

They opened a dirt oval about 60 miles from me and even thaw I have never been big on tracks where the wheels only turn one way I figured I give it a try. I am pleased to say I am hooked now. On a dirt oval a little more power is good but my race ported 30.5 just has to much torque.
 
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