Still troubleshooting clutchbell overheating and engine bogging

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stephanie51277

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Thank you all for your help with this, i tryed to ask you guys a few more questions but i don't think you guys got them. I now have the clutch off and from the youtube videos i just watched, it looks like the clutch is in good working order, not loose, no busted spring and plenty of shoe material still on clutch. One person replyed saying the engine may have shifted when i crashed causing things to bind. The engine is firmly attached to the chassis and all moving parts are moving smoothly including gears, and tires. When giving the truch full throtle, it seems to have a strain on it, the same sound it would have if it were nosed into a wall and givin throtle. It still moves when giving full throtle, just at less than half speed..... Even when going down hill. And after only 2 min or so you can smell the clutch and the bell is so hot that wnen i spit on it, it sizzeled. The bell has even turned a bluish color from the heat. So to recap the crash the indused this..... The truck did a few vilent flips and i had no power going to my wheels after, the engine would rev 100% but no power to the wheels, so i took the center diff completly off, didnt see anything wrong and put it back on and now this is whats happening. Any help on this is very appreciated, thanks again to all that have responded and if you are one of thoes people who is reading this i have sent you new messages that i think went to myself but you can see them on the old troubleshooting ad i posted
 
May have touched on this before, but without anything switched on, fired up, can you roll it easily?
Does the clutch bell spin freely?
I don't know your particular truck, but generally they should all be able to be pushed / pulled quite easily with little resistance.

Al.
 
atom3624 said:
May have touched on this before, but without anything switched on, fired up, can you roll it easily?
Does the clutch bell spin freely?
I don't know your particular truck, but generally they should all be able to be pushed / pulled quite easily with little resistance.

Al.
Click to expand...
yes everything is moving easily with no resistance of any kind. i also fired it up with the whole clutch off the truck and the engine was running perfectly. its a 1/5 scale hannibal monster truck from exceed. after firing up without clutch i put it back together for the 12th time or so for another test run and it still had the same problem, THE ENGINE WOULD ONLY GET TO ABOUT HALF THE RPM AS IT SHOULD AND THE CLUTCH BELL WAS HOT AGAIN.... TO TOP IT ALL OFF I WAS SO FRUSTERATED BY THIS 12TH TIME OF REASEMBLING THAT I FORGOT TO TIGHTEN THE 3 MAIN BOLTS THAT HOLD THE CENTER DIFF TO THE ENGINE AND AFTER A 3 OR 4 MIN RUN I NOTICED THEY HAD VIBRATED ALL THE WAY OUT ALONG WITH A COUNTER SINK SCREW THAT HOLDS THE ENGINE IN PLACE FROM THE CHASSIS. I ORDERED SOME NEW SCREWS AND BOLTS AND SHOULD HAVE THEM IN ABOUT 10 TO 14 DAYS SINCE I LIVE IN ALASKA.... I don't THINK THE OUTCOME WILL BE ANY DIFFRENT NEXT TIME I RE ASSEMBLE SO ANY NEW IDEAS ARE VERY APPRECIATED.
 
stephanie51277 said:
yes everything is moving easily with no resistance of any kind. i also fired it up with the whole clutch off the truck and the engine was running perfectly. its a 1/5 scale hannibal monster truck from exceed. after firing up without clutch i put it back together for the 12th time or so for another test run and it still had the same problem, THE ENGINE WOULD ONLY GET TO ABOUT HALF THE RPM AS IT SHOULD AND THE CLUTCH BELL WAS HOT AGAIN.... TO TOP IT ALL OFF I WAS SO FRUSTERATED BY THIS 12TH TIME OF REASEMBLING THAT I FORGOT TO TIGHTEN THE 3 MAIN BOLTS THAT HOLD THE CENTER DIFF TO THE ENGINE AND AFTER A 3 OR 4 MIN RUN I NOTICED THEY HAD VIBRATED ALL THE WAY OUT ALONG WITH A COUNTER SINK SCREW THAT HOLDS THE ENGINE IN PLACE FROM THE CHASSIS. I ORDERED SOME NEW SCREWS AND BOLTS AND SHOULD HAVE THEM IN ABOUT 10 TO 14 DAYS SINCE I LIVE IN ALASKA.... I don't THINK THE OUTCOME WILL BE ANY DIFFRENT NEXT TIME I RE ASSEMBLE SO ANY NEW IDEAS ARE VERY APPRECIATED.
Click to expand...

You know, I had the same problem with my Nutech Thunderbolt III. After a crash, it ran very badly. I took everything apart, checked,lubed,etc... I tried to re tune it for a while. Then I replaced the carb cause I found an air leak. New carb and nothing. I couldn't hit top end falling off a cliff. I replaced all fuel lines, clunk, gaskets and still the same problem. I did not have the clutch bell issue though. The last time I tried to start it my pull starter broke again. I took it off to repair it and for sh!tz and giggles, I turned the flywheel by hand and had ZERO compression! I guess in the crash, it sucked some debris into the cylinder and we all know what happens when that happens. When it was not on four wheels, it bogged like something was jammed but off the ground it ran like a champ without a load on it. I could see that your engine is not running properly and the clutch is slipping from it trying to engage and hold. I'd take off the top end and inspect! Or maybe you have an air leak between the carb and insulator. Plus, the throttle levers wear out and cause the same problem. If it rolls freely and all gear meshes are good, the problem is elsewhere's!!!
 
if the engine doesn't want to rev the clutch wont fully grab, and it will cause excessive clutch heat. id bet if you fix the lack of power/rpm it will fix the clutch problem
 
tallgoldguy said:
you know, i had the same problem with my nutech thunderbolt iii. After a crash, it ran very badly. I took everything apart, checked,lubed,etc... I tried to re tune it for a while. Then i replaced the carb cause i found an air leak. New carb and nothing. I couldn't hit top end falling off a cliff. I replaced all fuel lines, clunk, gaskets and still the same problem. I did not have the clutch bell issue though. The last time i tried to start it my pull starter broke again. I took it off to repair it and for sh!tz and giggles, i turned the flywheel by hand and had zero compression! I guess in the crash, it sucked some debris into the cylinder and we all know what happens when that happens. When it was not on four wheels, it bogged like something was jammed but off the ground it ran like a champ without a load on it. I could see that your engine is not running properly and the clutch is slipping from it trying to engage and hold. I'd take off the top end and inspect! Or maybe you have an air leak between the carb and insulator. Plus, the throttle levers wear out and cause the same problem. If it rolls freely and all gear meshes are good, the problem is elsewhere's!!!
Click to expand...
thanks for the advise!!! I never even thought about that besides looking at the tune pipe because it had came out of the holding bracket and caused the rubbery o ring that is between the two pipe parts to come almose all the way out.... Do you think an air leak in the exhaust could cause the problem? I know the engine has lots of compression just from starting it and turning the clutch by hadd. There definately could be an air leak on the carb so i will break it down tonight and check. Thanks again i really think that could be the problem and now that i think about it.....when i started it without the clutch on it bogged slightly befor reving to max rpm. I was just woundering why it got to max rpm and wouldnt with everything on since everything rolls so smooth, but the slight load thing you said makes total sence now.
 
sharkey said:
if the engine doesn't want to rev the clutch wont fully grab, and it will cause excessive clutch heat. Id bet if you fix the lack of power/rpm it will fix the clutch problem
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i totaly think the problem is in the engine now now that ive read your and the last response....thank you for confirming it! So now that i think its an air leak..... Where should i be checking other than where the carb ataches to the engine? Any thoughts on this is greatly apprishieated.
 
airleaks can be anywhere there is a mating surface. common ones are the carb, and manifold, however a leak between the crankcase halves or cylinder to crankcase can also cause it. worn crank bearings and seals is another possibility. a good way to check for air leaks is to take an unlit tourch (butane, propane, acetylene, a bbq lighter might even work) and wave it around where you suspect a leak. if its leaking the engine sound will change, either the rpm will go up or it will smooth out.

there could be other things causing this problem. fuel lines could be on backwards, may just need some tuning. a leaking tuned pipe can cause issues, id get the problem corrected before you continue troubleshooting. i think a worn out cylinder has been mentioned, i went through that problem a couple years back. my motor would start to bog out of corners when it got up to temp, i chased it for a while ignoring the fact that it could be compression cause it felt fine. finally i put a compression gauge on, i only had 30psi compression when warm, and when i pulled the motor apart i found the famous cy plating issues. new headkit and it ran great from there on in. not saying this is your problem, however its something to keep in mind.
 
sharkey said:
airleaks can be anywhere there is a mating surface. Common ones are the carb, and manifold, however a leak between the crankcase halves or cylinder to crankcase can also cause it. Worn crank bearings and seals is another possibility. A good way to check for air leaks is to take an unlit tourch (butane, propane, acetylene, a bbq lighter might even work) and wave it around where you suspect a leak. If its leaking the engine sound will change, either the rpm will go up or it will smooth out.

There could be other things causing this problem. Fuel lines could be on backwards, may just need some tuning. A leaking tuned pipe can cause issues, id get the problem corrected before you continue troubleshooting. I think a worn out cylinder has been mentioned, i went through that problem a couple years back. My motor would start to bog out of corners when it got up to temp, i chased it for a while ignoring the fact that it could be compression cause it felt fine. Finally i put a compression gauge on, i only had 30psi compression when warm, and when i pulled the motor apart i found the famous cy plating issues. New headkit and it ran great from there on in. Not saying this is your problem, however its something to keep in mind.
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the propain/butain trick sounds like a great way to find air leaks ive never thought of that. I have some new things that have apeared since i just took the engine completly out.... I am going to write a new post about my findings, please read it and tell me what you think of what i found. Thank you!!!!!
 
sharkey said:
airleaks can be anywhere there is a mating surface. Common ones are the carb, and manifold, however a leak between the crankcase halves or cylinder to crankcase can also cause it. Worn crank bearings and seals is another possibility. A good way to check for air leaks is to take an unlit tourch (butane, propane, acetylene, a bbq lighter might even work) and wave it around where you suspect a leak. If its leaking the engine sound will change, either the rpm will go up or it will smooth out.

There could be other things causing this problem. Fuel lines could be on backwards, may just need some tuning. A leaking tuned pipe can cause issues, id get the problem corrected before you continue troubleshooting. I think a worn out cylinder has been mentioned, i went through that problem a couple years back. My motor would start to bog out of corners when it got up to temp, i chased it for a while ignoring the fact that it could be compression cause it felt fine. Finally i put a compression gauge on, i only had 30psi compression when warm, and when i pulled the motor apart i found the famous cy plating issues. New headkit and it ran great from there on in. Not saying this is your problem, however its something to keep in mind.
Click to expand...
i took the spark puug out and shined a flash light in the whole and it looked like there were a couple of shinie spots on the top of the piston, im not sure and from what someone els wrote, i may have sucked some debree in the cylendr during the crach. If i take the head off or engine apart to check, will i have to replace any gaskets if they are still good or have to torque the bolts back down any particular way? Also, how much did your headkit cost and what did it come with? Im hopping its just my damaged pipe that i explained in a new post, what are your thoughts on that? Thank you for all your time and help with this..... Oh and you said 30psi wasnt good, if i check my cylender presure, what should it be? It feels like it has good presure when i pull on it, it doesn't feel any diffrent than befor the problem.
 
tallgoldguy said:
You know, I had the same problem with my Nutech Thunderbolt III. After a crash, it ran very badly. I took everything apart, checked,lubed,etc... I tried to re tune it for a while. Then I replaced the carb cause I found an air leak. New carb and nothing. I couldn't hit top end falling off a cliff. I replaced all fuel lines, clunk, gaskets and still the same problem. I did not have the clutch bell issue though. The last time I tried to start it my pull starter broke again. I took it off to repair it and for sh!tz and giggles, I turned the flywheel by hand and had ZERO compression! I guess in the crash, it sucked some debris into the cylinder and we all know what happens when that happens. When it was not on four wheels, it bogged like something was jammed but off the ground it ran like a champ without a load on it. I could see that your engine is not running properly and the clutch is slipping from it trying to engage and hold. I'd take off the top end and inspect! Or maybe you have an air leak between the carb and insulator. Plus, the throttle levers wear out and cause the same problem. If it rolls freely and all gear meshes are good, the problem is elsewhere's!!!
Click to expand...
well, i started taking the engine apart to get ready for installing a headset and just like you, i had what seemed to be very little compression when turning the flywheel by hand. i am at a stand still because i don't know if i need to untighten the head bolts with a torque wrench, do i??? and i cannot find a fuelie 30cc engine anywhere and that is all my engine says on it. it had some numbers on a sticker but i cannot read them anymore. it is an exceed brand hannibal 1/5 scale monster truck. exceed doesn't carry the engine or parts. do you know of this engine or where to get a head kit for it or a replacement engine that will bolt up to my chassis and center diff???
 
a hannibal is an HSP/ redcat dunerunner so parts will fit from those.

your engine is an HY engine which is a 2nd gen copy of a CY...it's 30.5cc with a 36mm piston and 2mm stroker crank...CY 2 bolt parts will fit directly you do not have to source HY parts at all

the carbs on these HY engines are garbage, that yours has gone this far is a surprise..there have been endless posts in the past with carb failure on the HY engines (they are not a walbro carb).
first thing i'd change out is the carb and then go from there once your motor starts revving properly again
 
mooman007uk said:
a hannibal is an HSP/ redcat dunerunner so parts will fit from those.

your engine is an HY engine which is a 2nd gen copy of a CY...it's 30.5cc with a 36mm piston and 2mm stroker crank...CY 2 bolt parts will fit directly you do not have to source HY parts at all

the carbs on these HY engines are garbage, that yours has gone this far is a surprise..there have been endless posts in the past with carb failure on the HY engines (they are not a walbro carb).
first thing i'd change out is the carb and then go from there once your motor starts revving properly again
Click to expand...
i found a cy 30.5 rebuild kit that says fits hpi, km, rovan baja engiens..... do you think this will fit mine also?
 
stephanie51277 said:
i found a cy 30.5 rebuild kit that says fits hpi, km, rovan baja engiens..... do you think this will fit mine also?
Click to expand...
i also just found a kit that says fits chung yang cy23rc/ cy26rc/ cy27rc/ gp2900 engines when a PLUS 2MM (30mm total stroke) crank shaft is added. bolts directly onto chung yang cy29rc engines as the engine features a 30mm crank shaft as stock..... does this sound like it will work on mine???
 
I tried to send you a couple of pictures but it wouldn't let me for some reason on this site if you give me your email address I can send them to you via email. Thanks!

tallgoldguy said:
You know, I had the same problem with my Nutech Thunderbolt III. After a crash, it ran very badly. I took everything apart, checked,lubed,etc... I tried to re tune it for a while. Then I replaced the carb cause I found an air leak. New carb and nothing. I couldn't hit top end falling off a cliff. I replaced all fuel lines, clunk, gaskets and still the same problem. I did not have the clutch bell issue though. The last time I tried to start it my pull starter broke again. I took it off to repair it and for sh!tz and giggles, I turned the flywheel by hand and had ZERO compression! I guess in the crash, it sucked some debris into the cylinder and we all know what happens when that happens. When it was not on four wheels, it bogged like something was jammed but off the ground it ran like a champ without a load on it. I could see that your engine is not running properly and the clutch is slipping from it trying to engage and hold. I'd take off the top end and inspect! Or maybe you have an air leak between the carb and insulator. Plus, the throttle levers wear out and cause the same problem. If it rolls freely and all gear meshes are good, the problem is elsewhere's!!!
Click to expand...
 
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