Well crap I bought a X2 from Dan =)

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Madspeed

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I Dun did it now!!!! I ordered the Black Friday special from Dan. So Besides Loctite Diff fluids and Kill switch What else? How are the Rovan Kill switches? What weight oils in front center and rear? Should I replace the ring and pinions while they are open? and with? I think ill hit the little SC track here local and watch them poop them selfs =)
Thanks in advance.
 
@Madspeed To many hit and misses from Rovan kill switches for me to trust them. I'm buying only Killer RC kill switches, money well spent if for nothing else the proven track record.
 
Thrasher said:
This gets the good word around here too
https://rc-car-online.de/en/product...s-best-quality-fits-for-all-transmitters.html

Take your truck out and drive it to find out what you want replaced. With few exceptions it is silly to hop up just for the sake of it. Unless ofcourse you are going for a specific look.
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Is the kill switch avail here in us? Not looking for a mod list Im more looking for what diff oils to buy grease for the gearsets should I go through the shocks w 30w silicone? I ordered 2k 3k 5k 7 k 10 k diff I didnt really find a good suggestion other than Rclarge scales 5ive setup sheet from losi using 7 k in front 5k mid and 2k rear?
 
Hey Madspeed i just got my KM X2 in last week. Its a nice looking truck but upon arrival a yellow piece of paper was in box telling me to remove right side engine cover then remove coil bolts one at a time and locktite them, and also tighten flywheel nut. I guess they had a problem with something coming loose on a few models. Now for the bad news “brother” when i got to the track the truck didn’t roll freely i thought this was normal, but thankfully a friend was at the track and showed me that its wasn’t normal after some checking we found that the gear mesh wasn’t correct. Check yours before starting it should roll freely away from you if you push it.
 
Thunderbird1983 said:
Hey Madspeed i just got my KM X2 in last week. Its a nice looking truck but upon arrival a yellow piece of paper was in box telling me to remove right side engine cover then remove coil bolts one at a time and locktite them, and also tighten flywheel nut. I guess they had a problem with something coming loose on a few models. Now for the bad news “brother” when i got to the track the truck didn’t roll freely i thought this was normal, but thankfully a friend was at the track and showed me that its wasn’t normal after some checking we found that the gear mesh wasn’t correct. Check yours before starting it should roll freely away from you if you push it.
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Thank you for the info. I plan to tear it all apart a re asemble it correctly w lubes and loctie. Other than that what do you feel about it? how is the engine?
 
Engine is good i did flood it on first start so i suggest you watch YouTube video by O’neill Brothers racing on how to run gas out of flooded engine.also don’t use cheap oil all the guys at track are running Maxima Castor 927 i noticed a huge difference and i starts better. Also using a quality spark plug Ngk 3066 CMR7H.as for the gear mesh contacted Dan and he said other customer had same issue he told me to go get Losi 19 tooth engine shims and try those. I gave at track gave me those but it didn’t solve problem . I eventually made a aluminum plate to mount under piñon housing which is also clutch housing after stacking two plates together i finally got a tolerable gear mesh.
 
Madspeed said:
Is the kill switch avail here in us? Not looking for a mod list Im more looking for what diff oils to buy grease for the gearsets should I go through the shocks w 30w silicone? I ordered 2k 3k 5k 7 k 10 k diff I didnt really find a good suggestion other than Rclarge scales 5ive setup sheet from losi using 7 k in front 5k mid and 2k rear?
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I think thats hard to answer because it comes down to prefernce. My favorite truck atm is Losi -MTXL and I run 500.000 in the center diff and 100.000 in front and back. Thats almost running dry and a far cry from your choice. In the case of the MTXL it just brings the truck to life and make it responsive in a way that only my pipe upgrade delivered previously. I chose this on the reccomendation of youtuber Botajell and he owns every 5th scale you can think of made in the US and have started to invite China in. His advice tend to be "take it to the bank" matter of fact. He is very keen on KM, so I would just go to his channel and ask him.

The killswitch i suggested is available in the US, just order it from the German site I don't think the postage will be much more than if you got it from within the US,. Its the size of a small coin.
 
Thrasher said:
I think thats hard to answer because it comes down to prefernce. My favorite truck atm is Losi -MTXL and I run 500.000 in the center diff and 100.000 in front and back. Thats almost running dry and a far cry from your choice. In the case of the MTXL it just brings the truck to life and make it responsive in a way that only my pipe upgrade delivered previously. I chose this on the reccomendation of youtuber Botajell and he owns every 5th scale you can think of made in the US and have started to invite China in. His advice tend to be "take it to the bank" matter of fact. He is very keen on KM, so I would just go to his channel and ask him.

The killswitch i suggested is available in the US, just order it from the German site I don't think the postage will be much more than if you got it from within the US,. Its the size of a small coin.
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Thank U fine sir
 
Just got it. LOVE it cant wait to drive it. DAN is the MAN! you can not beat his customer service. Of course UPS did thier job at kicking it here from east to west coast and broke the left rear fender. What are you doing with the gear mesh? I think I should replace the gear box with an aluminum one as well diff housing and losi gear set?
 
DCD25002-11C0-401D-9EED-C388B9347E07.webp 62CA8701-33DD-4113-A2B3-7CF2EE62CF14.webp I had to make a aluminum plate to lift up clutch housing i guess you could more or less call it a shim plate. I did it this way so i could apply thin double sided tape to holes shim plate in place while i screwed in the two front bolts that bolt down the motor. Also when you remove starter rope cover to loctite the coil bolts get some graphite spray and spray it on those plastic paws on flywheel one paw on mine would stick a lot so a friend told me to try this. Replace the very cheap throttle servo horn screw with a good quality screw. Also put washers on any ball links that can pop off to keep them on as well as the two outer steering ones. Good luck and loctite all you can these rigs VIBRATE!
 
Be careful with aluminium upgrades and chose them carefully because if something goes wrong, something have to give. Platic gives way and breaks, aluminium can sometimes take all the stuff surrounding it out when it fails. I had a Eupean champion 5th scale offroad driver tell me to not do aluminium upgrades of my front and rear diff for this reason but to do get hold of a metal cup for the center. I love the fact that this guy is outracing competition with an almost bonestock 5ive-B. He is not a fan of aluminium upgrades because they just make the truck heavier and more fragile (though they DO look awesome). So the only alu hopups I have is alu steering rod and I am getting the center diff cup from HR. I think the take home message that I have got from others than just him is that you do alu hopups for looks alone with few exceptions. If you are a basher or a racer, then forget about it.
 
B7598C4F-749C-4090-96C4-0EB7245239E7.webp 6D5FD06A-A1D0-4A4C-A6F1-261892901446.webp 0A4E6A77-A789-498E-B825-32E0E4C51647.webp I understand your point this was not an upgrade it was a “Fix” to a problem that the truck had binding in the gear mesh. King motors are a not built up to the standards of a Losi 5T,therefore i am slowly realizing that if i wanna race this truck im going with premium upgraded parts. I did race truck last weekend but not without problems such as pull rope plastic paws issue and also throttle servo screw can off as well as one lower shock bolt backed out. Racing this truck was extremely fun and I’ll continue to upgrade as for race well all i can say is its going to be a few more races till i can get to the front and run competitively with the experts.
 
I think I agree with you on the alum parts. I would not do arms. But the rear diff housing would be to keep good pinion to crown gear mesh or they will strip. Like the ford 9" and gm 14 bolts use a third bearing on the end of the pinion due to deflection. makes them UBER strong. I would see using better aluminum front outers and rear outers . The center and maybe rear diff cups as stated. The car is already in a bazillion pieces going to go through diffs and possibly change innards w losi gears. IMHO I think the aluminum parts it comes with are needed and could use a couple more nothing to crazy. I think I might port the engine and raise compression a lil. Ill have to crunch the numbers and see what it is now. possibly build a tuned pipe to better work with this cc engine combo. I used to mod my motors when I was 16. My dyno was an oak table, Kinda small but I had modded a a 7.5 to pull it when I was done and would NOT before =)
 
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