orange.1829
Active Member
aup just got mcd evo3 runs 4 about 2 or 3 mins then no power and will not start wot do u think it mite b>>> engine hope not.
engine
- Thread starter orange.1829
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aup just got mcd evo3 runs 4 about 2 or 3 mins then no power and will not start wot do u think it mite b>>> engine hope not.dc2 man
Reading the Rules!
hello now i hope this helps,as i have had similar experences.
seems most definate to me you need to change your plug,i know u prob think a new plug wouldnt be an obvious problem but read on.
when a machine is new (more often they leave factory with carb running rich intended for break in)so they can foul and wet the plugs.
1-i suggest you find out on this forum someplace your exact carb settings.
2-if possible change your plug for break in and lean you mixture very slightly,maybe 1/8th of a turn on your low speed needle,now bear in mind for break in you need to be on the rich side but understand for you to be able to drive the car to perform break in and keep it running you need the right balance.
3/have you the correct mixture ratio?
4-is your mcd brand new or secondhand?
check all the above and let me know.
hope this helps,best of luck,and btw if you don't have a new plug clean and dry the old one and retry.
seems most definate to me you need to change your plug,i know u prob think a new plug wouldnt be an obvious problem but read on.
when a machine is new (more often they leave factory with carb running rich intended for break in)so they can foul and wet the plugs.
1-i suggest you find out on this forum someplace your exact carb settings.
2-if possible change your plug for break in and lean you mixture very slightly,maybe 1/8th of a turn on your low speed needle,now bear in mind for break in you need to be on the rich side but understand for you to be able to drive the car to perform break in and keep it running you need the right balance.
3/have you the correct mixture ratio?
4-is your mcd brand new or secondhand?
check all the above and let me know.
hope this helps,best of luck,and btw if you don't have a new plug clean and dry the old one and retry.
Replace the crappy thing MCD calls a clunk with a real one,
vent the fuel tank lid if it already isn't,
replace the fuel lines with real fuel line.
If it is hot where you are you have to cut some holes in the body, the bodies keep some of the dirt out and all the heat in when there aren't any holes.
This is what I did to the underbody of my Baja 1000
I hope that helps.
Where did yours come from?
Shiny
Well-Known Member
Need more info to help you. But you can reset the carb needles and clean the spark plug to start with.
orange.1829
Active Member
- Thread starter
- #5
put new plug in still nothink just keeps losing power then it just stops. will try fuel tank cap. can it b a carb fault. it is second hand. thanks
mooman007uk
Well-Known Member
Sounds like this is the fix, fuel restriction cos the tank can't breathe.
orange.1829
Active Member
- Thread starter
- #7
ok thanks how do u get the cap 2 breathe. wot is the clunk new 2 all this.
go to www.mcdrc.com all info is there.
dc2 man
Reading the Rules!
i agree with you bigger the better.
we need to sort things out here that what large scale forums are all about.
so hows the winter treating you btb? u working on any thing at the moment?
we need to sort things out here that what large scale forums are all about.
so hows the winter treating you btb? u working on any thing at the moment?
here you go btb as requested at your doorstep.
this is copeid from a thread started by monothiest a moderator at mcdrc.com
Here are a few tips for all you new owners out there that should help getting you up and running hassle free. Feel free to add anything else you can think of.
Vent the fuel tank
Surprisingly the tank is not vented from the factory so you will need to add one so that the tank doesn’t pressurise and cause fuel delivery problems to your engine.
There are two ways you can do this. First way is to drill a 3rd hole through the rubber grommet and the second is to drill a hole through the fuel cap. Both methods work equally well although picking the highest position (i.e. fuel cap) is more desirable as there is less chance of fuel from the tank blocking the line which can pressurise the tank. Also make sure the line doesn’t protrude from either the grommet or cap more than 1cm or so for the same reason. Route the vent line so that the end exits the vehicle so that when you roll excess fuel will not spill inside. If your not a DIY kind of person I think King Cobra Racing make a nice alloy cap with a vent hole ready to go.
Grommet vent:
Fuel cap vent:
Add a “clunk” style fuel filter and replace stock fuel line
Again this is not included as standard so I recommend you add one for a couple of reasons. Firstly the clunk filters are weighted which will help keep the fuel line deep within the tank to help stop “fuel slurp” and associated air bubbles in the line. Secondly it will help keep the secondary mesh filter located in the carb nice and clean ( a blocked one will cause all kinds of engine dramas and can have you chasing the problem for weeks). I STRONGLY suggest you do NOT use one of those cool looking but otherwise useless in line nitro filters as the filter mesh used in most of those is actually courser than the one in the carb so again will lead to blocked carb issues. I personally use the one made for the HPI baja5b but any decent mower shop should have them.
Not as important but still worthwhile is to replace the stock fuel line as the standard stuff tends to harden over time and may eventually split or crack over time but it might also have a lot to do with the fuel you use so your mileage may vary.
Throttle linkage mod
The stock throttle linkage tends to bind on the carb throttle shaft due to the way it hooks around the linkage so if you persist with this setup then periodically check for binding otherwise get yourself some wire and bend up your own using a round locking collar or two to hold it in place rather than the standard hook arrangement.
While on the discussion of throttle linkages it is also a good idea to fit a spring to the servo horn and attach to the screw that attaches the brake brace to the gear plate to act as a mechanical fail safe in case of a loss of power. I had a battery disconnect a few months back and if it wasn’t for the spring I would have potentially lost my buggy or had some expensive repair work.
this is copeid from a thread started by monothiest a moderator at mcdrc.com
Here are a few tips for all you new owners out there that should help getting you up and running hassle free. Feel free to add anything else you can think of.
Vent the fuel tank
Surprisingly the tank is not vented from the factory so you will need to add one so that the tank doesn’t pressurise and cause fuel delivery problems to your engine.
There are two ways you can do this. First way is to drill a 3rd hole through the rubber grommet and the second is to drill a hole through the fuel cap. Both methods work equally well although picking the highest position (i.e. fuel cap) is more desirable as there is less chance of fuel from the tank blocking the line which can pressurise the tank. Also make sure the line doesn’t protrude from either the grommet or cap more than 1cm or so for the same reason. Route the vent line so that the end exits the vehicle so that when you roll excess fuel will not spill inside. If your not a DIY kind of person I think King Cobra Racing make a nice alloy cap with a vent hole ready to go.
Grommet vent:
Fuel cap vent:
Add a “clunk” style fuel filter and replace stock fuel line
Again this is not included as standard so I recommend you add one for a couple of reasons. Firstly the clunk filters are weighted which will help keep the fuel line deep within the tank to help stop “fuel slurp” and associated air bubbles in the line. Secondly it will help keep the secondary mesh filter located in the carb nice and clean ( a blocked one will cause all kinds of engine dramas and can have you chasing the problem for weeks). I STRONGLY suggest you do NOT use one of those cool looking but otherwise useless in line nitro filters as the filter mesh used in most of those is actually courser than the one in the carb so again will lead to blocked carb issues. I personally use the one made for the HPI baja5b but any decent mower shop should have them.
Not as important but still worthwhile is to replace the stock fuel line as the standard stuff tends to harden over time and may eventually split or crack over time but it might also have a lot to do with the fuel you use so your mileage may vary.
Throttle linkage mod
The stock throttle linkage tends to bind on the carb throttle shaft due to the way it hooks around the linkage so if you persist with this setup then periodically check for binding otherwise get yourself some wire and bend up your own using a round locking collar or two to hold it in place rather than the standard hook arrangement.
While on the discussion of throttle linkages it is also a good idea to fit a spring to the servo horn and attach to the screw that attaches the brake brace to the gear plate to act as a mechanical fail safe in case of a loss of power. I had a battery disconnect a few months back and if it wasn’t for the spring I would have potentially lost my buggy or had some expensive repair work.
:clap:That away! Now we have somewhere to send the next chap with the same question.:clap:
This should also be in with the MCD's I tried searching but found nothing and I swear this was talked about at one time or another?
This should also be in with the MCD's I tried searching but found nothing and I swear this was talked about at one time or another?
Ah good, I thought you were mad at me. lol
Here is a picture of what I did
this how I modified the throttle linkage, the stock one just doesn't work.
this is what happens when the bump stops aren't set properly.
Gotta love them MCD's.
Any other questions?
That's what's wrong with a typed reply, so easy to take it the wrong way. My fault for not posting with a smiley.
I like how you made sure the vent tube went underneath.
orange.1829, When they flip over a small amount of fuel gets in the tube from the cap and its a real good idea to keep the tube out the bottom or rear so its not draining in your model. The loop you see is were the air is allowed to vent from the cap and the loop makes it harder for fuel to squirt out all over. The vented caps throw the extra fuel all over the top of the cap (Like FG's).
I like how you made sure the vent tube went underneath.
orange.1829, When they flip over a small amount of fuel gets in the tube from the cap and its a real good idea to keep the tube out the bottom or rear so its not draining in your model. The loop you see is were the air is allowed to vent from the cap and the loop makes it harder for fuel to squirt out all over. The vented caps throw the extra fuel all over the top of the cap (Like FG's).
Shiny
Well-Known Member
Nice detailed instruction. 
orange.1829
Active Member
- Thread starter
- #16
thanks that really helps will try it 2 moro and let u know. why do they come like that mcd need 2 sort it.
Shiny
Well-Known Member
That is strand. I thought such a thing will sorted from the factory. even if it is not a god design and need to be replaced. but a tank that is not vented dos not sounds god to me. And it is the there'd version of the car!?