getting it ready to start

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Bogan Thunder

Bogan Thunder

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i bought this about 6 months ago and haven't started it yet and the seller pointed out a issue about the rear diff case he said something about shimming it and i can't remember exactly, also the exhaust pipe pivots on the rear 2 bolt mount and i noticed its probably best to "pivot it up " as in the pic to stay clear of the servo linkage, anyway it should start when it's ready.
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Bogan Thunder said:
i bought this about 6 months ago and haven't started it yet and the seller pointed out a issue about the rear diff case he said something about shimming it and i can't remember exactly, also the exhaust pipe pivots on the rear 2 bolt mount and i noticed its probably best to "pivot it up " as in the pic to stay clear of the servo linkage, anyway it should start when it's ready.
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I have the same pipe on my 5ive B. I didn't have to shim or pivot anything. I just bolted it on. I did, however, make slots in the mounting tabs for easy removal. No need to take the nuts all the way off that way. By slots, I mean I cut the existing slots all the way out the back of the tabs.
 
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i was being lame until i had a closer look and attempt it but so far i dropped the rear 2 bolt mount at it's lowest and now the inside of the lexan body just leans against exhaust on a couple of spots i'll need some heat tape there to stop it from melting.
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Bogan Thunder said:
i was being lame until i had a closer look and attempt it but so far i dropped the rear 2 bolt mount at it's lowest and now the inside of the lexan body just leans against exhaust on a couple of spots i'll need some heat tape there to stop it from melting.
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I ended up putting header wrap on my pipe and that gold heat tape on the body. No melting now.
 
what about just applying the tape to the inside body, i would rather not cover the pipe and if the tape is just applied to the body and it leans against it would it stop the heat transfer to the body?
the viper wheels on the front can't be used as they rub against the turnbuckle but the rears don't rub, only the uphills are direct fit that have clearance for the front.
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I didn't try it without the pipe wrap so I can't say. I did the pipe wrap to reduce under shell temperatures, not just protection for the body. It's a pain in the azz to put on though. You can touch the pipe after running. Not hang onto it like a bat, but touching briefly wont burn you. I sprayed the pipe with ceramic header wrap sealer after completing the installation. Hence the black color.
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jeepfreak1972 said:
I did the pipe wrap to reduce under shell temperatures, not just protection for the body.
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on a warm day there must be a lot of heat under the body as there is not a lot of air flow through the vents on the body.
think i will just use the losi for winter use only and try the gold heat tape on the body maybe it won't get too hot under the body during winter.
Wrapping the pipe like you have done is the best solution
 
Bogan Thunder said:
on a warm day there must be a lot of heat under the body as there is not a lot of air flow through the vents on the body.
think i will just use the losi for winter use only and try the gold heat tape on the body maybe it won't get too hot under the body during winter.
Wrapping the pipe like you have done is the best solution
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I ended up cutting more holes in the body this year. I'm not a fan of the factory body anyway so no biggie. I'm still procrastinating on finishing the grafil body. Lol
 
the reason why i bought this Losi was the grafil it looks like Kawasaki, i just got to put fuel in it and start it tomorrow.
This Losi chassis has the best roll resistance it's spins over with ease like a 1/8 nitro.
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when i bought some used nitro's the seller also included a paint compressor and paint i got to try some painting one day as well.
i already started it a couple times and just slightly rich the low speed, i got to test drive it.
 
Sounds good. I like the "silenced" pipe over an unsilenced unit. Seeing your square filter reminds me that I have one of those original filters with a TLR outer wrap. I need to clean it up and sell it.
 
jeepfreak1972 said:
I have one of those original filters with a TLR outer wrap. I need to clean it up and sell it.
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what's a good replacement for the oem?
with regards to the top pic i have circled the "rear right shaft" has slight movement that shouldn't be there and the other 3 shafts are good and don't move that's what the previous owner was referring to about the diff i got to remove the diff and have a look.
 
Bogan Thunder said:
what's a good replacement for the oem?
with regards to the top pic i have circled the "rear right shaft" has slight movement that shouldn't be there and the other 3 shafts are good and don't move that's what the previous owner was referring to about the diff i got to remove the diff and have a look.
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Im running the OBR velocity stack and a DT1 filter. The diff is probably an easy fix.

https://www.ddmracing.com/OBR-POWER-STACK-VELOCITY-STACK-ALUMINUM

https://www.ddmracing.com/DT1-Dome-Triple-Stage-Filter-for-Losi-5ive-DT1-2003
 
I have two of the filters. One always cleaned, oiled and ready for a quick swap out. You need to cut a hole in the body for that filter.
 
l haven't looked into changing to another filter but the oem is limited by design.
i want to mod the body posts to go higher it looks a bit weird but it gives more clearance for the pipe.
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after removing the rear diff from the chassis there was a pool of diff oil underneath the outer diff case but after taking the diff out i couldn't see where the leak was coming from then i attempted to put the diff back to check if the cup was fixed but closing the case back together is not happening it doesn't line up for some reason i tried forcing it together but not happening.
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The two Losi diff case parts TLR252015 are designed crap and this is why the previous owner sold it.
every other rc diff manufacturer i have come across and the diffs has been o.k
 
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