I just bought a radiolink radio rc4gs for my 1/5 rovan buggy; are there any issues between this radio and a dynamite kill switch?
Issues between radiolink and dynamite?
- Thread starter matts6887
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- 218
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- Messages
- 218
- Reaction score
- 88
Hey Matts6887, just would like to share a few thoughts for you on the Dynamite kill switch. I have one in each 1/5 truck i have and this switch works great with my Futaba 4pm+ and the, new to me, Flysky noble nb+...
This is not not specific for the radiolink however, bare with me...
1: I was new to this particular switch. and it works great with both TX/RX combos I have.
2: Have you used this on any other system?
3: If not, this may be helpful, maybe not...
With the dynamite switch, after you complete the engine coil and switch modification requirements and installed per the instructions, as well as the receiver plugged in.
In my opinion, start with this first- Choose and set up a spare channel/switch that you can quickly find and activate (an on-off, or momentary switch) for immediate true engine kill. Most likely ch-3 or 4 or??? if running a crawler possibly another channel. Use the included red led light to confirm the function. Get this to work first.
This will be your true manual "panic" engine kill and/or for just killing the engine in the pits or after a run, manually from the transmitter instead of using the engine mounted push button kill switch. This however does require normal voltage and signal to function. Good to have regardless.
Then, you want to set up the failsafe function in your transmitter. This a bit more confusing but is actually simple depending on your radio system.
Go into failesafe setup and: Set your throttle/brake channel to go back to neutral or idle when a signal loss or voltage drop occurs. I always keep my throttle set to idle with no trigger input. Or you can add in some brake input for good measure for failsafe. Most failsafe setup menus should allow you to set this up as I mentioned. Just remember. this is a servo function and not a coil/engine kill function. Your just trying to get the vehicle to stop moving when there is a signal loss or a loss in the required voltage. Once configured, this can be tested even with the engine not running. You just want to see the servo go back to neutral or beyond when you kill the transmitter, yielding a signal loss. Under the condition of a signal loss or voltage drop your Throttle/brake servo should immediately go back to the neutral or below if some positive braking is programmed in. This can normally be customized depending on your preference or radio system.
I have read others having to adjust servo endpoints on some systems to get there kill switches to function. I have not had this problem with the radios I have.
Obviously this is just my theory and the way I set mine up. Others may have different opinions and should also be considered.
Also, I run 7.4 volts to my receiver/servos. With this voltage you will also remove and toss both the black and red voltage select blocks from the dynamite switch.
Good luck!
This is not not specific for the radiolink however, bare with me...
1: I was new to this particular switch. and it works great with both TX/RX combos I have.
2: Have you used this on any other system?
3: If not, this may be helpful, maybe not...
With the dynamite switch, after you complete the engine coil and switch modification requirements and installed per the instructions, as well as the receiver plugged in.
In my opinion, start with this first- Choose and set up a spare channel/switch that you can quickly find and activate (an on-off, or momentary switch) for immediate true engine kill. Most likely ch-3 or 4 or??? if running a crawler possibly another channel. Use the included red led light to confirm the function. Get this to work first.
This will be your true manual "panic" engine kill and/or for just killing the engine in the pits or after a run, manually from the transmitter instead of using the engine mounted push button kill switch. This however does require normal voltage and signal to function. Good to have regardless.
Then, you want to set up the failsafe function in your transmitter. This a bit more confusing but is actually simple depending on your radio system.
Go into failesafe setup and: Set your throttle/brake channel to go back to neutral or idle when a signal loss or voltage drop occurs. I always keep my throttle set to idle with no trigger input. Or you can add in some brake input for good measure for failsafe. Most failsafe setup menus should allow you to set this up as I mentioned. Just remember. this is a servo function and not a coil/engine kill function. Your just trying to get the vehicle to stop moving when there is a signal loss or a loss in the required voltage. Once configured, this can be tested even with the engine not running. You just want to see the servo go back to neutral or beyond when you kill the transmitter, yielding a signal loss. Under the condition of a signal loss or voltage drop your Throttle/brake servo should immediately go back to the neutral or below if some positive braking is programmed in. This can normally be customized depending on your preference or radio system.
I have read others having to adjust servo endpoints on some systems to get there kill switches to function. I have not had this problem with the radios I have.
Obviously this is just my theory and the way I set mine up. Others may have different opinions and should also be considered.
Also, I run 7.4 volts to my receiver/servos. With this voltage you will also remove and toss both the black and red voltage select blocks from the dynamite switch.
Good luck!
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