sounds like gas is the way to go.. I do like the sound of them better than nitro. More of a low growl than a high pitch sequel. Ok so the breaks.. hydro vs cable.. I'm thinking cable less to go wrong.. Any thoughts?
hydros will work better and stop faster, my rear layshaft hydros seam to wearr less then stock mechainical brakes.
you need to install the hydros and bleed them, you bleed them once and get the air bubbles out then your good to go, no more blkeeding if you get it ritgh the first time.
bleeding rc hydros is easy and quick its easyer then bleeding 1:1 scale cars by your self.
can that rtr be fitted with a pipe? looks like it just had a nub on the side?
yes you can fit a pipes on the ready to runs, the competion modles come with pipes, and every upgrade posible, including alloy shock pistons and threaded shock shafts, with is a very good upgrade fior the shocks.
once you buy one you will be hooked, you will want to upgrade it if it needs ity or not, and you will want to add a pipe for more power, this is when the competion modles are good, its cheaper then upgrading a rtr and it comes with all the best stuff already and you get to enjoy the build.
if you buying a 4wd rtr modle or a competion 4wd modle, have alook here these brakes are good, no good for a 2wd modle unless you plan to use front hydros, but for a 4wd modle they are good, as your getting brakes front and rear, it would be good for a basher, but not for a racer imo.
any way hers the link
https://www.largescaleforums.com/showthread.php?t=4967
i have these brakes on my 2wd fg monster truck, they work well and look good, but on a 2wd modle you still need front brakes for the ultimate stopping power but they work better then stock brakes, less wear.
they caliper and the master cylinder are from megitech and the ally gear plate is from tps.
im going to add megitech front hydros to mine and use one master cylinder and see how it goes, if its no good ill use two master cylinders and two brake servos.
