Alloy rearhub problem.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
The problem is still there.When I put the extenders on the top arm is still too long even though its wound right up,and if you look at the dog bones they are not in as far as when I had the original plastic hubs on:eek::crying:
Getting baffled now folks,any ideas?:confused:
J.
 
The problem is still there.When I put the extenders on the top arm is still too long even though its wound right up,and if you look at the dog bones they are not in as far as when I had the original plastic hubs on:eek::crying:
Getting baffled now folks,any ideas?:confused:
J.

do they do smaller turn buckels james???? if not then you may have to cut them down a bit?????? may work but not sure :(

see trebors last pic mate he's are smaller than the ones on yours!!!!!!!
 
Last edited:
VooDOO..easy fix....ya have to add a couple washers to the drive cup axle..before the rear upright..you may also have to add ear plugs inside of the drive cups...diff cup &
outer drive cup...this will space the dog bone to the center of your cups.....
I had to do the same thing...I run my car flat for the A-arms..no droop...level...
hope this helps..slawhammer
PS..looks like the turn buckle is also too long...you will have to get different ones(shorter)
or cut those down for your application...I may have a Fg part number for the short turn buckles..
I will have to look in my parts book for that....I write down all numbers I use for my car..
as a Referance Plus the supplier where got part from...
 
Last edited:
Cheers Slaw,What I cant understand is they were normal with no slop when the plastic ones were on.I have measured the arms from the rose joints to the ends of the arms but they are the same?....confused.
Cheers Charlie,i had a look at Trebors and he said he machined his so they were shorter....must be an easier way than this.
J.
 
Yeah every time you want to change some thing you have to modify some thing else..
Wolfgang from Rc-Tech Germany said to cut the alloy upper A-arm 5mm's shorter
where the turn buckle screws in...Plastic to too alloy is different.....I chose to use shorter turn buckles....But I srill had to use a washer before the drive cup goes into
the rear upright....I can draw you a picture....Don't think you can see it from photo
maybe you can see the washer.....I will have to check my thread for photo's
I know always some thing....Slawhammer
PS:ok VooDoo..number..FGstd0610/03...short turn buckle 36mm long for upper Alloy A-Arm
Next number...FG6071/01 is the normal turn buckle M8x61mm long....for the plastic stuff.....
I went with the shirter turnbuckle my self....But I am using FHMT rear end drive parts
Not FG diff internals or Fg diff inner cups..Fg dog bones..Fg outer drive cups...
My FHMT dog bones are longer..there 108mm vs 96 mm for FG........
Now I am using the Fg alloy A-arms (Fg4474) the Fg alloy rear up rights..that are sloted..same as you heve for rear up rights......Not sure on your lower arms...for the eyes or turn buckle there
to bring it in closer......
 
Last edited:
Cheers Chop,Slaw.i didnt know there was such a rod end.I have sorted the problem out now.I found a set of smaller turnbuckles.
Its on its first test run today.
Thanks dudes.
J.
 
Like I said James, I have 2 of those ends sitting here doing nothing that Chop showed. brand new.

you allready know but I like to voice my opinion... put a nut on the turnbuckle before you cut it so when taking the nut off it clears the threads...

good luck. at worst just get some threaded rod and make your own (cover with some aluminum tubing and it'd look like a bling part
 
Back
Top