3 Months of Owning a Desert Buggy XL - Never replaced anything that wasn't broken

I too am wondering whether I should have just bough a 5ive instead of a DBXL as spent a bit too... But then again, I think I would have only shelled out a bit on bits for the 5ive too.....May be not so many I guess....

However, you say you didn't replace anything that wasn't broken, how did you break the engine?

djvrs said:

However, you say you didn't replace anything that wasn't broken, how did you break the engine?

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I kind of forgot about the head and pipe when I wrote that. Lol I replaced them before ever driving the car. I think if I could go back I would just stay with 1/10 scale, I really didn't want to spend this kind of money on a toy.

madmanandrewk said:

I kind of forgot about the head and pipe when I wrote that. Lol I replaced them before ever driving the car. I think if I could go back I would just stay with 1/10 scale, I really didn't want to spend this kind of money on a toy.

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I've got a 1/10 scale too and yes parts are somewhat cheaper! lol However, I do like 1/5 scale just not the cost, but on the bright side it is cheaper than full scale ;-)

I've probably spent in the region of £900 (inc £600 on the DBXL itself) on it so far and I haven't really done much.

Going to stick with my DBXL now I've got it and hopefully enjoy it too.

I have that much in mine not including the cost of the dbxl haha. I haven't really "broken" anything on it. I put the spark plug through the roof this weekend so I had to get a new plug wire. I could use a center diff cover seeing as it cracked around 2 of the mounting holes the first time I removed it and put it back on. I'm also running some serious torque with a bartolone ported g320 and his pipe but I check the shafts and pins before eveyone run.

Vanillagurilla said:

I have that much in mine not including the cost of the DBXL haha. I haven't really "broken" anything on it. I put the spark plug through the roof this weekend so I had to get a new plug wire. I could use a center diff cover seeing as it cracked around 2 of the mounting holes the first time I removed it and put it back on. I'm also running some serious torque with a bartolone ported g320 and his pipe but I check the shafts and pins before eveyone run.

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How long you been running the G320 engine? Some have had issues with running this much power which puts me off slightly....You been ok?

Vanillagurilla said:

I could use a center diff cover seeing as it cracked around 2 of the mounting holes the first time I removed it and put it back on.

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Me too. That was actually the first thing I ever broke, before I ever even started the car when I was rebuilding the motor. I've just been putting off replacing it since it's technically functional.

madmanandrewk said:

Me too. That was actually the first thing I ever broke, before I ever even started the car when I was rebuilding the motor. I've just been putting off replacing it since it's technically functional.

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Yeah it works fine since there's not much if any torque in that direction but still sucks, and I won't buy a factory one because it will probly Crack on instal. I also had the cut most of the gear cover off because the 22t pinion rubbed on the inside and I couldn't get the motor far enough forward to get the mounting screws aligned properly with the new motor.

djvrs said:

How long you been running the G320 engine? Some have had issues with running this much power which puts me off slightly....You been ok?

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I've ran about 4 tanks through it so far, it's a beast. Ported by bartolone racing and I'm also running his pipe, chassis braces and clutch carrier. Diffs and gears seem to be ok along with the rest of the driveline but I will be upgrading the main shafts because I can't seem to keep the pins tight on both the front and rear diff, even with red loc tite they still come loose. But nothing has broken as of yet and I beat it up pretty good last weekend, landed hard enough on the roof to damn near put the spark plug through the roof. There is actually a hole on the roof pannel and I put on a new plug wire because the boot was fubar'd but it still ran great.

I'm thinking, on this one I'm about to put in tomorrow, why not try jb welding the pin in? And if that doesn't work I'll be switching to the team hoonage ones.

If you ever need to get it apart your fiddlesticked. And out a whole shaft and not just a pin.

Do you have a source for extra pins?? I've been replacing the whole thing every time I lose a pin anyway.

I'll see if I can get it off the fb guys.

You know, it really bothers me that I never even thought to look for something other than "DBXL CVD pins" until I went to that link on facebook and they were just dowel pins. Here's a US source: 4x20mm alloy steel dowel pins at McMaster-carr. $0.22 a pop, doesn't get much better than that. Especially compared to a $30 driveshaft.

I added the DDM 29cc bore up kit to my DBXL and lost the whole rear drive line . ( this was the original U shaped one) when I ordered a replacement I got the one that is more like a ball socket and lost the pins twice. I then bought a pin at the local hardware (4x20mm) inserted it then wrapped .005 shim stock around it and used heat shrink to hold it in place then wrapped electrical tape around that. I have run it twice so far and it has held together.

Cowboy68 said:

I added the DDM 29cc bore up kit to my DBXL and lost the whole rear drive line . ( this was the original U shaped one) when I ordered a replacement I got the one that is more like a ball socket and lost the pins twice. I then bought a pin at the local hardware (4x20mm) inserted it then wrapped .005 shim stock around it and used heat shrink to hold it in place then wrapped electrical tape around that. I have run it twice so far and it has held together.

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Strange, I run a ported g320 from bartolone racing with there pipe and haven't lost or broken anything as of yet, guess Im lucky but I also check the set screws after every tank. Maybe the team chase chassis is helping.

maybe the chassis braces also , I still have the stock plastic ones.

Cowboy68 said:

maybe the chassis braces also , I still have the stock plastic ones.

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Honestly after having the bartolone braces (which are very nice) there's no need to go with an aluminum piece. Your better off saving that money and getting a new chassis. The factory plastic ones are very rigid. I wasn't able to detect any flex when installed.