Today I installed the killer bee kill switch, after installing it the car I could not get the car to start I attached everything like instructed in the video but still no fire from the engine. So I took the killer bee out all together and put the original switch back in...no fire. So I took the switch off and tried starting it without it still no go. Ok after reading numerous post and threads and trying them I still can't get my ONB 27.2 race mod to start today. Last time I ran it ran perfect strong no problems today different story. This is what I've tried: 2 new plugs a different carb, I've flushed the pipe (jetpro). I inspected the piston and ring it's clean nothing out of the norm. I went back to stock settings 1 1/2 out from closed on both. I went to friends house who has stock motor to do compression comparison. I got 95psi and my buddy had 90 psi and his started with just one pull. We switched plugs my plug started in his motor one pull. His plug in mine nothing same thing just turning over no fire. I pulled the plug it is wet when I dried it and grounded to the head it's showing spark light blue between the plug and the head. I'm dumb founded the only thing I can think of is the coil may be putting out a weak spark where it's getting spark outside the head but being consumed/blown out under compression. I'm gonna order another coil that's the only thing I don't have but would like some input to make me feel I'm not going crazy as to what it might be. THANKS:crying:
12 hrs later and still won't start!! dumb founded
- Thread starter dweb4
- Start date
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dwarfy
Well-Known Member
If it ran fine before you added the killerbee I would def say its electrical and not mechanical so hold fire with changing anything else! Probably something to do with the wiring to the kill switch on the engine. Take everything out again and make sure all wires are terminated corrected and there are no cuts in the insulation where it could possibly short out giving the effect of the kill switch being pressed. Maybe post some pics so the lads on here can help you out.
+1 mate....defo something todo with kill switch
- Thread starter
- #4
Ok I took the killer bee off completely and just ran the original kill switch (button) and I still wasn't able to get it to start also removed the original kill switch as well and tried to get it to fire up and start with no sucess also. Could I have shorted out the ignition coil to the point where it produces a spark just not strong enough?
DO you have ANY spark?
when you removed the kill switch, did you take it off the coil? i know you took the manual switch off, but did you take the KRC switch off the coil as well?
have you checked your Coil/Flywheel gap to be sure its right?
you should be getting spark without either kill swith attatched to the coil.
last, 1 1/2 is 1/4 turn to for out for the LOW needle. stock settings are 1 1/4 on Low and 1 1/2 on high. 1 1/2 on low is quite rich, and the motor is probably pretty wet (flooded).
when you pull the plug out of yours after a couple pulls, is the plug wet looking? if it is, your likely flooded out.
check that you have fuel getting into the motor.
take your plug, after confirming spark, dip the end into some mixed up fuel, immediatly install and try it. if it fires up and dies, you have a fuel delivery issue. this could be bad or cracked lines. line on in the wrong postion. a blown gasket, a loose manifold, or cylinder bolt, ect..
if you loosen the gas cap, and try, you may find some luck, should the cap vent be plugged, but i doubt this will do anything, at this time.
its possible it shorted, but not very likely, these coils are pretty stout really.
check that coil flywheel gap, if the coil loosened up a smidge, it may of dropped down, makeing for a weak spark.
when you removed the kill switch, did you take it off the coil? i know you took the manual switch off, but did you take the KRC switch off the coil as well?
have you checked your Coil/Flywheel gap to be sure its right?
you should be getting spark without either kill swith attatched to the coil.
last, 1 1/2 is 1/4 turn to for out for the LOW needle. stock settings are 1 1/4 on Low and 1 1/2 on high. 1 1/2 on low is quite rich, and the motor is probably pretty wet (flooded).
when you pull the plug out of yours after a couple pulls, is the plug wet looking? if it is, your likely flooded out.
check that you have fuel getting into the motor.
take your plug, after confirming spark, dip the end into some mixed up fuel, immediatly install and try it. if it fires up and dies, you have a fuel delivery issue. this could be bad or cracked lines. line on in the wrong postion. a blown gasket, a loose manifold, or cylinder bolt, ect..
if you loosen the gas cap, and try, you may find some luck, should the cap vent be plugged, but i doubt this will do anything, at this time.
its possible it shorted, but not very likely, these coils are pretty stout really.
check that coil flywheel gap, if the coil loosened up a smidge, it may of dropped down, makeing for a weak spark.
- Thread starter
- #6
12 more hours started FINALLY!!
Ok to everyone whom has read this and i've gotten help from. I went through everyones suggestions and tips and I didn't get the motor to start went to LHS just to see if maybe coil was bad well tested mine on a friends motor fired right up first pull so the coil being the problem is out. I was beyond ideas as to what could be the problem so I just said why not put the stock zenoah internals back in crank, and topend etc. Figured heck what's the worst that could happen maybe it will start maybel it wont. So everything buttoned up I gave the pullstart a tug and fired right up!!! I was completely surprised. The problem had to be the topend, so I'll contact ONB about what has happened and see what they say.
Ok to everyone whom has read this and i've gotten help from. I went through everyones suggestions and tips and I didn't get the motor to start went to LHS just to see if maybe coil was bad well tested mine on a friends motor fired right up first pull so the coil being the problem is out. I was beyond ideas as to what could be the problem so I just said why not put the stock zenoah internals back in crank, and topend etc. Figured heck what's the worst that could happen maybe it will start maybel it wont. So everything buttoned up I gave the pullstart a tug and fired right up!!! I was completely surprised. The problem had to be the topend, so I'll contact ONB about what has happened and see what they say.
sperera
Well-Known Member
good to hear its running again mate, hope it works out in the end.
very strange though
very strange though
pablo
Well-Known Member
have you had the high and low screws out of the carb and put them back in the wrong way round, been there done that,
- Thread starter
- #11
Nah don't think that happened. I ran the truck for about hour or so with some friends and we just bashed around at a field wasn't hot day and field wasn't dusty just low cut grass. I had FG filter as well as two stage outer filter as well ran same carb settings for a while. It ran strong no problems came home put in garage, came out two weeks later and couldn't get it to start.
jackobyte
Well-Known Member
Did you use the same fuel as it goes off over time, try a new batch.
- Thread starter
- #13
Yeah fresh fuel was used during the first session of trying everything to get it start. I made another batch of fuel and tried that when I put a new carb on it. Spoke with Dan and Sean at ONB and they said looks like my piston ring went south. Got a new rebuild with pistion, ring, gaskets and plug so I should be back in business in a few days. Just will go through break-in again and see what happens.
dwarfy
Well-Known Member
Are you breaking it in gently or going for the WOT approach from the off like Voo2doo?? He seems to get excellent results using that method & they go like a scalded cat 