30.5 Esp

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yolonda21 said:
Well im going to try and kill it with an ESP 30.5 and a Jetpro.........yikes. Whats going to let go first? :confused:
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Your wallet! lol. I think it will snap the left rear diff cup on landing a jump!
 
Well i put a whole tank off gas through it.............and never broke anything.................. :D I love my RamPig............ :D
 
Instead of just sitting around feeling like dog crap (yes, just got over one cold and right into another) I decided to go abuse mine as well. Another full tank, nice jumps, big hill climbs and NOTHING broke. I think the tempering of the cups either worked or the RC God is smiling on me. Besides I just go the chrome kit today for the engine as well as the TGN air filter cap. After all the dust and dirt though you can't even tell. I am impressed that the 30.5 didn't cause a casualty. With that engine and pipe you have to be close to or over 4.5 hp. Now that is a tough truck! I thought I did have a break when the wheels locked up all of a sudden but thankfully a rock just got inside the right rear wheel and jammed against the lower a arm.
 
I'm out of the game til mid next week due to a split outer diff case but I'm pretty confident that we're onto something with the tempering...my front diff is on the bench so i'll temper both those cups and see how it goes from there. If it really works then i believe, apart from driver induced ouchies into immovable oblects, that the ramp will be the toughest truck/buggy out there...i got about $15-1600 CAD into mine and for that money you'll not get anything that comes close...i'm real tempted to part out my pride and joy fgbaja to buy another ramp, beachthrottles one for sale is doing the tempting right now...some hard thinking to do.
 
I managed to break a dremeled cup but dremeling is what led to the idea as they were getting hot and seemed more durable...i'm now using a plumbers torch and heating from the tip to the cup and chasing up the colours from yellow thru blue to silver grey which is about 900f...further testing is required but so far so good and even though it's only a tank results are so far very promising as I've been really trying to give the drivetrain some abuse
 
Lizardking said:
How you tempering the cups?
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Actually, I'm using a propane Burnsamatic torch. The Dremel was an accident that happened to produce results for Moo and myself we weren't expecting. Instead of waiting for the upgrade cups he used a diamond bit and widened the hole to use the stock cups. He had a good idea so I did the same. We think that the friction from removing the material slightly tempered the cups as they were/are so brittle after the hardening. So, long story short, there are verying stages to tempering all depending on the type of material being used. Unfortunately no one seems to know what the cups are made of exactly (do a google search for steel stock, there are a couple of hundred types at least). Moo, correct me if I'm wrong but didn't you heat yours to tan first? When you heat up the steel it changes color, the hotter the darker it stays. I heated my diff cup shafts (DO NOT HEAT THE CUP ITSELF!!!) at the end where the pin goes thru until it was a medium dark blue. Then you can either let it cool by room temperatur or wrap it in asbestos to cool slower. I just let mine cool down naturally. I am happy to say that I now have over 3 tanks on these "tempered" cups with no breakages. As far as whoever asked for some photos/vids I don't have a vid camera and I am gonna clean the truck up before I take any more pics!
 
I'm going beyond blue to silver grey was going to try tan with is 300-400f but it's still in the brittle range of some steels so i started from the top. I also let mine cool naturally (though for for accurate temper in specific steel/application where everything is known parts are often quenched so accurate temp is controlled)


here's an excellent chart http://www.abana.org/resources/education/tempil_guide.shtml


The good thing is that we have started at different places so we'll get the results that much quicker.


A couple more links explaining the process and colour to temp chart http://www.tpub.com/content/construction/14250/css/14250_33.htm


colours


http://www.anvilfire.com/index.php?bodyName=/FAQs/temper_colors.htm&titleName=Temper%20Colors%20:%20anvilfire.com


I'm thinking maybe the cups weren't tempered at all for some reason and that's why they were brittle, so though we don't know carbon and alloy content our efforts are improving the part even though we're guessing the temp needed.


It's working so far so if the correct info was available i can only assume the parts durability would be improved way more.


The way I was driving for the last tank I guarantee I'd have broke at least one cup
 
fyi, the ESP Full Mod 30.5 from DDM was dynod by Lunatik with the TGN Race Pipe at 5.75 HP at a little under 13000 rpm. so i have no doubt your pulling 4.5hp and likely 5plus if you have the full mod motor.
 
30.5


i bilt a 30.5not modifid or ported for my mutilator. whellys very well fore half that .i want to put one in the tt soon.bigger is beeeeeeeter
 
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