5T Engine won’t start

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Picodogg

I eat DDM chocolate mints for breakfast
PLUS member
Messages
91
Location
Kansas City
Zenoah 32 on the 5T was started and ran in idle for initial break in. It started without a problem. After the idle it sat for some time because of reasons and now it won’t start. It turns over, the coil and flywheel are set correctly, I’ve removed the plug and pulled it to clear a flood, still won’t start.

Any thoughts? Buy a new plug?
 
All that signifies is its sparks out of the engine. Totally worthless for testing the ignition system. Get a spark tester and check for spark the correct way, they are all of $12.00 off Amazon.
OEMTOOLS 25069 Adjustable Ignition Spark Tester, Spark Plug Tester for Small Engines and Large Engines, Spark Load Tester, Spark Plug and Ignition Tools https://a.co/d/hu2ErpB
 
Basics first, did you pull the plug and ground it to check for spark? Is the fuel fresh?
Fuel is fresh within a week 93 octane pump gas with Lucas oil 2stroke at 25:1.

No did not check for spark. Will do that and get that thing Mr Donato recommended.

Dang was hoping this would be easy.
 
Zenoah 32 on the 5T was started and ran in idle for initial break in. It started without a problem. After the idle it sat for some time because of reasons and now it won’t start. It turns over, the coil and flywheel are set correctly, I’ve removed the plug and pulled it to clear a flood, still won’t start.

Any thoughts? Buy a new plug?
check your plug wire mine pulled away from the spring in the boot.
 
check your plug wire mine pulled away from the spring in the boot.
Got my in line spark checker plus some plugs. It should be one or the other I am hoping. Who knows? This is my first time working on a two stroke besides a blower or trimmer.
check your plug wire mine pulled away from the spring in the boot.
Does the plug wire attach via connectors on tabs?
 
Got my in line spark checker plus some plugs. It should be one or the other I am hoping. Who knows? This is my first time working on a two stroke besides a blower or trimmer.

Does the plug wire attach via connectors on tabs?
one end is conected to the magnito and the other end is conected to the rubber boot that goes on the plug.
 
Tester showed spark was being made. I replaced the plug, it still wouldn’t start with choke on as a “cold start.”

I then held full throttle and had no choke… after about thirty pulls it started up.

Thanks for your help everybody.
 
I'm going to say had a severely flooded engine. They are an absolute pain to start after they flood bad. If you want it to be easier to start put an esp race ported top end on. Choke with a 3 slow pulls and it will pop and kick the cord back in a bit then choke off and pull a few times and its running
 
Tester showed spark was being made. I replaced the plug, it still wouldn’t start with choke on as a “cold start.”

I then held full throttle and had no choke… after about thirty pulls it started up.

Thanks for your help everybody.
Richen the low speed needle 1/8” (counter clockwise) see if starts easier.
 
Richen the low speed needle 1/8” (counter clockwise) see if starts easier.
Yeah I was gonna ask about that. At very first when I put full brake on it would cut the engine out. I turned the idle needle about 180* clockwise and that seemed to prevent the engine from being killed.

The high and low speed needles are all set at different angles than the book says. It seems awfully slow on the low end. I wasn’t gonna mess with it until I had more time on it, but I will do what you say to see if it helps.

I should have the Bartolone silenced exhaust from Dave by weekend. Not sure if that affects anything.
 
Your linkage isn't set right if your killing the engine while braking. With the radio system on loosed the collar at the back of the throttle linkage and let the carb pull the slack out of the linkage, then just push the collar with no pressure against the servo arm and tighten the collar, the collar grub screws are NOT metric they are SAE Allen's. Heed the warning as eventually you'll strip them out and be screwed if you try and keep using a metric Allen on them.
 
Your linkage isn't set right if your killing the engine while braking. With the radio system on loosed the collar at the back of the throttle linkage and let the carb pull the slack out of the linkage, then just push the collar with no pressure against the servo arm and tighten the collar, the collar grub screws are NOT metric they are SAE Allen's. Heed the warning as eventually you'll strip them out and be screwed if you try and keep using a metric Allen on them.
Good to know. Thanks.
Your linkage isn't set right if your killing the engine while braking. With the radio system on loosed the collar at the back of the throttle linkage and let the carb pull the slack out of the linkage, then just push the collar with no pressure against the servo arm and tighten the collar, the collar grub screws are NOT metric they are SAE Allen's. Heed the warning as eventually you'll strip them out and be screwed if you try and keep using a metric Allen on them.
I should be able to drop the idle back to where it was and lean up the low end?
 
I'm going to say had a severely flooded engine. They are an absolute pain to start after they flood bad. If you want it to be easier to start put an esp race ported top end on. Choke with a 3 slow pulls and it will pop and kick the cord back in a bit then choke off and pull a few times and its running
Just ordered that ESP modded/ported kit from DDM. Once a week I come back like a crack addict and fill a cart up with goodies.
 
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