A few beginner questions about KM

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Vertiviper

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Hi All,

This is my first post on this forum. I've been folling 1/5 scale buggys for some time, but never had the guts to purchase/build one.

I've been watching KM really move through the ranks the last couple of years. I know when they first came out there were many quality control issues (common for a new model/clone).

Overall, how have they been lately? I can accept the fact it's a clone and there will be weaknesses. If I purchased a new 3.0 with the 2spd, what should I expect to change right out of the box?

Thanks!
 
hi and welcome to l,s,f king motor these days are very good the new models just keep getting better with alloy parts 2 speeds, better radio gear the only thing i would do is change the pull start and servos but wait untill the original ones give up first then upgrade, as with all rtr stuff give it a good going over making sure all nut and bolts are tight and spur gear mesh is ok.
 
How do you guys feel about one of their mostly aluminum models? I know historically, something all aluminum will only put more strain on weaker, more expensive parts.

Does their aluminum bend easier than HPIs?
 
bending aluminum

probably not. source for all of this stuff is primarily the same. china. i have a km and aluminum parts, except for upper and lower control arms. i believe you need to have a weak link somewhere in the system. i choose the arms. i'd say, since your first car, get the base model and upgrade what you want to. it is fun. :cool:
 
Vertiviper said:
How do you guys feel about one of their mostly aluminum models? I know historically, something all aluminum will only put more strain on weaker, more expensive parts.

Does their aluminum bend easier than HPIs?
Click to expand...

Alloy models are excellent.No,they don't bend easier than HPI.I bought one and reluctantly sold it,I was that pissed off by selling it .......I bought it back!!!:w00t::w00t::lol:
J.
Here's mine ,de-annoed. @1:11

 
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No problem wth alloy KM. Just added 2 speed to mine,can't wait to see what she runs top end!!
Just get a Killer Bee system-that is a must!!!!
 
the PS's are definately the first weak points, mine borked on 2nd tank, the fix was get one with a COLLAR around the pawl no probs since then, mine has 2 speed already on it from factory, no issues on that either. its cool to add a lil more alloy here and there on it like i did, but leave some points plastic for break points, if you make it too solid it will find the weakest points and break, and if there aint any, then you risk alloy bending on ya.
 
I have been running a HPI SS for a while now and have been into 1/5 scaalw even longer. I put at least a 2 gallons thew mine a week, And it has been my experince that the all alluminum km bvaja or the HPI bajas are weaker buggies. The aluminum does not bend and spring back like plasic so if you hit somthing hard somthing is going to give somwhere. Sure it looks nice new but for how long. It has also been my experince that the all aluminum KM's have some fitment issues, I would say it was fluke but I have expeirenced this on a couple of differnt buggies from differnt dealrs. I will also add that km make decent buggy..if you loose the 2 bolt and get a zenoah. and as with all rtr check the fluids esspecialy the diff.
 
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I have 3 tanks through my KM KSRC-001 and still love the car. Had to change the radio system. I wanted my Spektrum DX3.0 controlling it. The stock steering servo crapped out on the second tank. I replaced it with a Hitec HS-5755MG. Fits with a little modding, no biggie. Or you can just switch to the HPI 5B radiobox and it will go right in. I also switched to the Hitec HS-5645MG for throttle/brake, stronger than stock and its a better servo.

CHECK YOUR NEEDLES!!! They werent set right on my car from the factory. Factory HPI settings will get you going safely for break in, tune from there.
HS - 1.5 out
LS - 1.24 out

The shocks arent built correctly at the factory, there is supposed to be a E-Clip on the shaft UNDER the piston to keep it from bottoming out. Without the clip the groove actually goes into the bottom cartridge and will eventually damage the seals/brass. The clips are actually supplied with the car in the spare hardware bag, don't know why they didnt install them??? Get some HPI 5B shock oil, DO NOT use silicon shock oils. The shocks were also under filled. I went with 10wt in the rear with 12 hole pistons and 30wt in the front with 3 hole pistons (order the HPI 5B shock pistons off Ebay or wherever).

I was a little concerned with the near zero backlash in the spur/pinion mesh, but so far it is still good, no sign of wear. I did spray the spur down with Maxima Racing Oils - No Fling Chain Wax. Keep an eye on the gear, the wax may attract a little dust, time will tell how it works.

I also did the PhatDad bleeder cap mod. Makes it easier to get the shocks built perfect with no air in them. Search YouTube to find it. He calls his series Baja's on a Budget.

Also check out BajaTutorials.com for more tricks/tips.

Other than what I have listed, its an awesome buggy so far!!!
 
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I had the Alloy KM2 like voo and its been a good buggy, what i'd change from the off are the Servos, pull start and radio system. the rest to be honest isn't that bad...

As for the all Alloy question i wouldn't go down that route again, not that its weak just the balls in the arms get very slack very quickly, well mine did anyway plus around the hinge pins...

Buy upgrades as you break them and you should be good to go, whether its a clone or not all the buggies have there weaknesses so stregthen them areas first..
 
That's guys. I'm thinking I'm going to go for a roller in mostly aluminum, then install a zenoah 4 bolt and better servos.
Then.....replace as things break and watch my wallet lose weight. :)
 
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