chitown joe
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oh no i don't need any, i make my own from msd, basicly what your doing with accel
About done with king motor..
- Thread starter britton95
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bhilly82
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I was just saying you can surpress copper wire. There are a few reasons you want copper core wire with a air cooled mag ignition. First carbon/graphite core breaks down fast when exposed to the heat air cooled motors produce. Second the resitance from a surpressed wire can shorton the life of the coil, and lower the amps of the spark. Yes they will raise the voltage of the spark which is why it can shorten the life span of the coil and wire. Higher voltage breaks down composite wires faster then copper.
Now supresion wires supress emi not rf. to block rf you need a metalic sheild on the jacket of the wire. Most people with large scale rc cars run a 2.4ghz radio. Most of the 2 stroke engines cant make that freq. On ave. the magnito will produce rf of 1mhz per rps so a engine running at 24k rpm would make a rf of 400mhz of am rf. (24000rpm/60x10) which is why you should never run a am radio with a gas motor.
Rember a hz is cycles per second.
Now supresion wires supress emi not rf. to block rf you need a metalic sheild on the jacket of the wire. Most people with large scale rc cars run a 2.4ghz radio. Most of the 2 stroke engines cant make that freq. On ave. the magnito will produce rf of 1mhz per rps so a engine running at 24k rpm would make a rf of 400mhz of am rf. (24000rpm/60x10) which is why you should never run a am radio with a gas motor.
Rember a hz is cycles per second.
chitown joe
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no offense but someones been reading the online data sites about wires,you got it word for word on some of that.
you got it wrong the suppressed wires do reduce RFI, my statement about reducing EMF was incorrect when the EMF collapses you get the RFI, which can effect electrics on a R/C, full size car, even your cell phone can be effected by it, if you have it close enough to the ignition system while running. doesn't have to be 2.4g, a killer bee isnt radio controlled the light controllers are not radio controlled they are powered via the radio controlled gear but not actually radio gear on their own, but are still susceptible to radio inference from the ignition system thats why they provide the ferrite magnets on the killer bee and suggest adding them to other on board electrics,i have seen with my light controller with stock coil wire which is copper core makes the lights change settings at random or actually here the chirp of the kill switch, the suppressed wires i have yet to see or hear anything like that,
as for heat break down, when do these wires get exposed to high temps? they are out in the open the most heat i have seen is maybe 80-90 degrees, and i have a exception to this rule since i have dual drag pipes and my engine has heat on 3 sides at all times these wires wont break down by heat, the only way these cables go bad and that will go for any cable copper core ,suppressed alike is by user error, a crash,or the user pulls the cable and it gets jacked
here something else to read
http://www.summitracing.com/expertadvice/professoroverdrive/default.aspx?techQuestion=165
sorry man not trying to argue with you, but you turned this into more of sales pitch of why to buy your cables
you got it wrong the suppressed wires do reduce RFI, my statement about reducing EMF was incorrect when the EMF collapses you get the RFI, which can effect electrics on a R/C, full size car, even your cell phone can be effected by it, if you have it close enough to the ignition system while running. doesn't have to be 2.4g, a killer bee isnt radio controlled the light controllers are not radio controlled they are powered via the radio controlled gear but not actually radio gear on their own, but are still susceptible to radio inference from the ignition system thats why they provide the ferrite magnets on the killer bee and suggest adding them to other on board electrics,i have seen with my light controller with stock coil wire which is copper core makes the lights change settings at random or actually here the chirp of the kill switch, the suppressed wires i have yet to see or hear anything like that,
as for heat break down, when do these wires get exposed to high temps? they are out in the open the most heat i have seen is maybe 80-90 degrees, and i have a exception to this rule since i have dual drag pipes and my engine has heat on 3 sides at all times these wires wont break down by heat, the only way these cables go bad and that will go for any cable copper core ,suppressed alike is by user error, a crash,or the user pulls the cable and it gets jacked
here something else to read
http://www.summitracing.com/expertadvice/professoroverdrive/default.aspx?techQuestion=165
sorry man not trying to argue with you, but you turned this into more of sales pitch of why to buy your cables
Last edited:
bhilly82
Well-Known Member
Not a sales putch. I hate to see people going threw all this trouble shooting and getting fed up cause they see they have spark and start changing out other parts when i have seen this be the cause of alot of the problems. And alot of people over look it. Composite core vs copper core is a debate that has been on going for 40 years. Emi i will agree is a problem with copper cores. In atvs, boats and now bajas I have not had any problems in 20+ years of working on them. Next roll of wire i buy i might get some surpressed copper core and see how that works.
Also this weekend i plan on doing a how to on this subject so others can do there own wire. Plus i make very little on my wires. They cost me 5.90 shipped so i am making 4.10. Which i think is fair since i spend time making them right. I only sell them cause i can make them cheaper then the average gas owner can buy a leed from the parts store.
And i know you may see this as a sells pitch but i bet the people i have helped don't see it that way.
Also this weekend i plan on doing a how to on this subject so others can do there own wire. Plus i make very little on my wires. They cost me 5.90 shipped so i am making 4.10. Which i think is fair since i spend time making them right. I only sell them cause i can make them cheaper then the average gas owner can buy a leed from the parts store.
And i know you may see this as a sells pitch but i bet the people i have helped don't see it that way.
bhilly82
Well-Known Member
My wire logic is not from online wire sites. Its from school from 25 years ago. So somthings may of changed since then.
Brandohim71
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No start
Try checking your cylinder head bolts for being loose. They do come loose, the engine looses compression. No start. Very common. Good luck bro!!!
I have tried every possible solution on why i cant get it to start. i had it going real good yesterday. now this morining it doesn't even want to try to start. i replaced the spark plug checked the insulation. checked the air filter. checked the pull start. played with the carb. and not even a sputter... im really just about ready to put it on ebay...
Try checking your cylinder head bolts for being loose. They do come loose, the engine looses compression. No start. Very common. Good luck bro!!!
To get back on track with what the thread starter was having problems with:
I was having the same issue. I checked spark, cylinder compression, air, and fuel. It turned out to be the fuel. The carb was trashed, and I finally replaced it with a 813-1, modified with the DDM part #
http://www.davesmotors.com/s.nl/c.88...it.A/id.852/.f
All my problems went away and the engine starts on 2 pulls.
I was having the same issue. I checked spark, cylinder compression, air, and fuel. It turned out to be the fuel. The carb was trashed, and I finally replaced it with a 813-1, modified with the DDM part #
http://www.davesmotors.com/s.nl/c.88...it.A/id.852/.f
All my problems went away and the engine starts on 2 pulls.