ADA intake manifold question

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46u

46u

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,185
Location
Macon, Georgia
After have the parts to build 3 motors for way to long I am finally getting around to it. I have 3 ADA intake manifolds but was advised by a top motor builder here in the states to run the stock plastic as I was told many times with the thick Teflon gaskets they do not seal well. He said on all their motors they run the stock plastic. Who here has run or is running the ADA manifold and has any one had problems with them sucking air or leaking?

I am building one stock 26 one ported 29 and one ported 30.5 all from new parts. All two bolt as when I collected all the parts 4 bolt motors where just starting to come out so that tells you how long I have had the parts.
All constructive input is greatly appreciated thanks!
 
If you're talking about the isolator block between the head and the carb - What's special about the one you're planning to use? what's wrong with the original? I know people do put taller ones on to increase botoom end.
 
i am using an ada intake manifold and i have no problems with it. i think the biggest problem most have is that they are overtightening the bolts which squish the teflon gasket which in turn causes the leaks, in other words they have no idea what they are doing and teh issue 99.9% of the time is operator error.

only time i have ever ran into a problem with the teflon gaskets (i have used them on chainsaws, weedeaters, and leaf blowers for a few years now) was when i overtightened them or when i get one that ot cut from a burr.
 
46u said:
lordraptor1 do you a specific torque or do you do it by feel?
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i do it by feel, unfortunately it is not an exact science i am afraid but i can tell you it is better to not be tightened enough (as you can always tighten it up a little more) but it is never good to over tighten (would then need a new gasket).

one thing to note is that it can vary depending on certain factors but best i could offer is this. tighten the bolts using ONLY your thumb and index finger till the screw bottoms out, then give it another 1/4 to 1/2 turn and test. if it is leaking continue using 1/4 of a turn at a time for the PAIR of bolts till it quits leaking and only till it quits leaking, after that you should go no more or at least no more than 1/4 turn more to snug it down.
 
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i used to use them on all my engines but stopped due to the same problem your talking about. I was getting a air leak behind the teflon gasket and the engine would start to run lean. I now just run the stock piece and haven't had any issues at all lately.
 
I have just changed to the ADA one as the stock plastic one I had on my engine warped and so I was getting air leaks.

I think you will find pro's and cons for both. Obvioulsy I would not have gone away from the plastic one if I did not have the problems, time will tell if the ADA one will work.

Like you I have heard that engine tuners prefer the stock plastic one.
 
BiggaJ said:
I have just changed to the ADA one as the stock plastic one I had on my engine warped and so I was getting air leaks.

I think you will find pro's and cons for both. Obvioulsy I would not have gone away from the plastic one if I did not have the problems, time will tell if the ADA one will work.

Like you I have heard that engine tuners prefer the stock plastic one.
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Most sell the tuned engines with the standard block. Yes the standard block can warp but all it needs is a rub on a flat surface with some emery cloth and it's fine, I've done it a couple of times on mine and other peoples engines - no problemz!
 
These PTFE 'gaskets' also require drilling an extra hole to line up with the carb.
To limit the leaks, some say to use a normal gasket as well.
I had a leak which was cured with this.
I had screwed tightly, so might have deformed the teflon, but I was careful to ensure the load (tightening of the screws) was uniform.

Al.
 
The reason the stock ones are plastic is to insulate from heat. The reason the aluminum ones use thick Teflon gaskets is to keep from transferring the heat. If you get to much heat to the carb it can vapor lock.

Yes I have found out not only here but on other forums 50% like them and 50% do not.
Thanks all for the input and help!
 
46u said:
The reason the stock ones are plastic is to insulate from heat. The reason the aluminum ones use thick Teflon gaskets is to keep from transferring the heat. If you get to much heat to the carb it can vapor lock.

Yes I have found out not only here but on other forums 50% like them and 50% do not.
Thanks all for the input and help!
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The reason most peolpe run the stock isolator blocks and gaskets is because they work just fine and there is very little in the way of issues with them.

You can see along the right hand side of the cooling cowl that a portion has been removed, this is to aid cooling and 99% of people I know do this.
 
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I cut mine more then that as it use to fill up with grass and such and make my engine over heat. Been running it like this now for quite a while.
HeadShurdA.gif
 
Mike1970 said:
Way too much, the cowl is there to aid cooling. If you've got grass in it then you need to maintain your car more frequently.
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I do maintain mine VERY well. This is why when I use to race I VERY rarely DNF. I blow my 5B SS off with compressed air after every run. I do not have a problem with over heating or even coming close even in the 100 degree weather we have here. Been running it like this for YEARS. ;)
 
46u said:
I cut mine more then that as it use to fill up with grass and such and make my engine over heat. Been running it like this now for quite a while.
HeadShurdA.gif
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Are you using a starter cover? Have not had any problem with grass since i installed one of those. Looks like your engine might suffer in the long run due to the lack of the funnel the cover provides for the cooling air.
 
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