adjust brake
- Thread starter jerrdog
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
dc2 man
Reading the Rules!
you should have two grubs on the linkage on the throttle/brake rod that you can loosen and adjust...
this should do the trick perfect,just let some more slack on it to lessen brake or opposite to make them better....
dc2 man
and welcome
this should do the trick perfect,just let some more slack on it to lessen brake or opposite to make them better....
dc2 man
and welcome
pipeous
Well-Known Member
and you can also use fuel tubing for the pressure on the brake lever. longer tube is a smoother brake feel, shorter is more progressive
There are a few things to look at for better breaking.
1. Your linkage on the end of the brake rod can be tightened so that it pulls the brake rod farther forward. Trick is to make sure its not too tight when its at idle.
2. Like mentioned above replace the spring on the end of the brake rod with a piece of tygon/silicone tubing. You can also make it a bit longer to get more adjustment.
3. You can adjust the two grub set screws in the front of the gear plate right behind the large spur gear so that the 1st brake pad is tighter against the front of the brake assembly.
https://www.largescaleforums.com/showthread.php?t=1940&highlight=gear+plate
1. Your linkage on the end of the brake rod can be tightened so that it pulls the brake rod farther forward. Trick is to make sure its not too tight when its at idle.
2. Like mentioned above replace the spring on the end of the brake rod with a piece of tygon/silicone tubing. You can also make it a bit longer to get more adjustment.
3. You can adjust the two grub set screws in the front of the gear plate right behind the large spur gear so that the 1st brake pad is tighter against the front of the brake assembly.
https://www.largescaleforums.com/showthread.php?t=1940&highlight=gear+plate
Last edited:
pipeous
Well-Known Member
start from scratch even. loosen the brake right off at the grub screw, center the radio and adjust then travel on the carb, then move the collet up to just before it puts pressure on the brakes. you can play with the length of fuel tube for amount of stab in the brakes or even use the end point in the radio... like setting the carb end pint... I use the thumb toggle on my dx3 for the brake adjustment and can change on the fly depending on track conditions etc... I don't like a lot of brakes myself... just enough to get it to do what you need... can go one step further with some radios and have another button to have a higher preset brake end pint for panic brakes... too much for my brain, but just offering options.. I do play with the end points and fuel tube lengths...
on 8th scale buggies I tend to like more back brake than front to keep the front from diving in a corner and helps kick the back end around if needed, so run a little shorter tube on back so it hits harder. once you max it they are both going to lock the same but initial braking is in back
on 8th scale buggies I tend to like more back brake than front to keep the front from diving in a corner and helps kick the back end around if needed, so run a little shorter tube on back so it hits harder. once you max it they are both going to lock the same but initial braking is in back