Adjustable Clutch Help Please

[MonsterAir]

Hey guys. I'm looking to try and tame the wheelie action on my FG Marder. I have a ESP 27.2cc mod'd engine with a viscous diff in the rear. 1 speed 2wd but looking into upgrading to 2 speed when I have the cash. I'm thinking about upgrading to the elcon 4 shoe adjustable clutch, comes with teflon shoes. So now with a clutch like this it's my understanding that I can adjust the point at which the clutch engages. Am I right in thinking this will help tame my wheelies while keeping a quick and smooth acceleration? or Am I best off focusing on the diff for that?......... I'm looking for quick accel out of the corners without the uncontrollable wheelie ing. Thanks.

 

[atom3624]

What's the problem with it wheelying?
That's GREAT - good power.

1. Get a wheelie bar.
2. Once you start adding alloy on the front, it'll transfer its weight distribution a bit.
3. Don't be so heavy handed on the throttle if it bothers you!!
4. If its a standard 2-shoe clutch, it might have a high RPM spring - stronger spring which permits the engine to spool up to higher revs before engaging. When it does it bits HARD - this might be another reason.
5. If you're going to keep it ON ROAD, no dirt, grass, bumpy terrain, then get a 2-speed. If you're going to use it as everyone else does - DO NOT GET A 2-SPEED - waste of time and money.

Enjoy it mate.
Sounds like you've got a strong motor.
Al.

 

[MonsterAir]

Thanks Al. Why don't I like wheelies? I have no control off the line when it wheelies and don't wanna bother with a wheelie bar (I think). I imagine it breaking off on a jump or something....... As you know I'm a tadd new at this so I'm sure I have a lead finger. Will work on that....... My train of thought on the 4 shoe clutch was/is to get it to engage earlier but smoothly and quickly gain speed while doing so. I have some alloy on the front but leaving the arms plastic. I was told to have a brake point, meaning if I crash my plastic arms will brake instead of poss ripping everything off if it was all metal...... Thanks for the info Al, I'm gonna look into what clutch spring setup I have in there now (I'm thinking a 6k spring) and tinker from there. I'm wondering at how low of a rpm I can get these adjustable clutches to engage?


Just ran her for the first time in 5yrs today!!! Still the same beast I remember! Pulling hard to the right though. Gonna have to tinker with it again tomorrow. Ran her on some sandy/salty asphalt, no traction. No grass avail right now. Icey snow 3ft high!

 

[MonsterAir]

Also I've only ever run 10k diff oil. Maybe I'll give a lower viscosity a try and take out the fin pack.

 

[PegLeg]

If you have a rear toe adjustment, be sure to have plenty of toe-in (approximately 4 degrees) to have better launch control.

 

[MonsterAir]

If you have a rear toe adjustment, be sure to have plenty of toe-in (approximately 4 degrees) to have better launch control.

Def have it set with toe out. It is on my list of things to tweek. Is there a way to adjust the toe in the fronts? Also could you recommend a cheap toe gauge. I seen the RPM gauge but it says for 1/10th scale.

 

[PegLeg]

Def have it set with toe out. It is on my list of things to tweek. Is there a way to adjust the toe in the fronts? Also could you recommend a cheap toe gauge. I seen the RPM gauge but it says for 1/10th scale.

You want toe in, in the rear. RPM makes a 'Monster' camber gauge suitable for larger scales. I used it quite a bit racing last weekend!
For toe, take a 2-3 foot straight bar/tube/stick and place it flat on the outside rim of the wheel. Wherever one side points to, the other side should be matched. For example, toe-in in the rear should point to somewhere along the front a-arm. When adjusting the opposite side to match, the stick should point to the same spot on the opposite a-arm. When you've got the desired toe, mark it on the a-arm on both sides so you can find the same settings in the future.

 

[atom3624]

You won't want to go below 6k as the engine will probably 'bog'.
100% agree with the 'no steering with the wheels in the air', hence a little control is nice, whilst having the power and option.
Defo toe-in at the rear.
Official FG fronts are generally ~parallel I think with no adjustment - might allow it to drag to slightly out as they're pushed along by the rears - which give some stability.
Sounds like you're having fun - good job!!
Al.

 

[MonsterAir]

Thanks Pegleg! I just picked up a Monster camber gauge last week. I'll play around with it.



Def having fun Al! I used to just drop it off at the LHS for upgrades and fixes. The guy bled me dry! Hence the reason for my 5yrs hiatus. Found some good FG suppliers and realized I was paying 4-5x cost on everything. So now I'm back and doing all tweaking myself. I must say it's more enjoyable that way. Even the down time, at least in the end I have the satisfaction of knowing I did it myself. Besides now that I'm gaining an understanding of how everything works I assume there should be less down time in the future.

"You won't want to go below 6k as the engine will probably 'bog'.
100% agree with the 'no steering with the wheels in the air', hence a little control is nice, whilst having the power and option."

That's exactly what I wanted to know. Didn't know what effect engaging at a low rpm would have. Thanks!.... Ya know you got me thinkin, what about a wheelie bar with steering? Turnable wheelie bar wheels!


Do you know of any alloy upgrades that would allow me to adjust the toe angle on the front? Sounds like the price would make it not worth it right now but I wouldn't mind knowing about options incase the ones I have now ever break.