After rebuild help..

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Trip

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Ypsilanti Michigan U.S.
Last summer in a quest for more power, I decided to add the (brand new) 28.5cc kit I had laying around. The top end kit went together well and fired on the first pull.

It never ran quite right. It refused to idle and bogged like crazy on the low end. After some needle tweaks I got it to run half-assed. It sounded like I had an air leak, so I grabbed my can of starting fluid and checked for leaks. I didn't find anything, so we packed up 4 FG's and headed to "The Pit" The truck ran somewhat ok but didn't have the power it did before I put the big bore kit on it. It ran for about 5 minutes then begain to get really weak, I mean it wouldn't even spin the tires in loose dirt. Then all of a sudden it stalled, it was hard to pull over, so I just brought it home and let it sit.

Today I finially decided to see what was going on, so I tore it apart. Looks like a wrist pin clip decided to come loose and break-dance all over inside. What a mess. So I cleaned everything out (I did not seperate the crank case) I used about a quart of 2 stroke gas and flushed and flushed. After I was sure everything was clean and the big-end rod bearings looked clean and in good condition. I threw the stock 26cc head (and piston of course) back on and sealed everything up (and I mean everything) with Permatex Ultra Copper. The only thing I could find in the crank case was a small piece of wire (in the pic below) I find it strange though, this wire is perfectly straight. hmmm?

Back in the truck I set the h needle at 1.5 and the low at 1.25 and it would not start, so I richened both up 1/4 turn. It fired up, but has the same lean bog it did last summer. I can make little or big carb adjustments but it makes no difference, still sounds lean.

It will not idle for more than about 2-3 seconds before it starts to die, a couple full throttle burps and it runs better for about 2-3 seconds, the the problem repeats itself. I should note the arrow on the piston is facing the exhaust port and the ring gap is facing the intake. Also I have a Jet-Pro silenced version 1.

Fuel flow form the fuel lines appears to be fine as it dumped half a tank all over my work bench. I connected the yellow fuel line to the top and the black line to the bottom of the carb. Is this correct? The motor and carb are stock other than the J/P pipe.

Any ideas?

Thanks Guys,
Trip..

**EDIT**I finally have a better camera, so here is what the piston and head looks like..
NewCamera161.webp
NewCamera164.webp
NewCamera153.webp
NewCamera160.webp
 
Last edited:
THat straight thing is probaly all that's left of the c-clip. A couple things you can do check and install new plug, check the gap between the coil and flywheel, should be the thickness of a business card.

Try another carb off of an engine you know works. Or dismantle the carb and install a rebuild kit. Check to make sure the fuel filter isn't plugged.

Make sure puilse port is open, if you siliconed the krap out of it it might just have gotten siliconed shut.
 
Is the pulse port in the the black carb to motor adapter? If it is I think I may have gooped over it. Also where is the fuel filter?

Thanks,
Trip..
 
there is also a small filter in the carb itself, remove the 1 screw on the bottom, remove diaphragm and you'll see a small round gauze filter...you can see if that is plugged too...running a decent intank filter should prevent this from plugging but I have had a 668 that had one plugged inside the carb
 
Well, I have bigger problems now... I pulled the carb off and saw the side of the piston is trashed just like the Big Bore piston. I guess there is something inside that I missed! I pulled it all back down and I can't find anything in there. It is clean and shiny. So, I guess it is time for a new motor.

Trip..
 
Have you checked the edges of the ports; they could have been left with raised edges from the big-bore issue and this has killed the 26cc piston...?
 
Dude, that just stinks!:(

The way I make myself feel a bit better is start searching for the motor that you would of never bought due to the motor you had.:D
 
Last summer in a quest for more power, I decided to add the (brand new) 28.5cc kit I had laying around. The top end kit went together well and fired on the first pull.

It never ran quite right. It refused to idle and bogged like crazy on the low end. After some needle tweaks I got it to run half-assed. It sounded like I had an air leak, so I grabbed my can of starting fluid and checked for leaks. I didn't find anything, so we packed up 4 FG's and headed to "The Pit" The truck ran somewhat ok but didn't have the power it did before I put the big bore kit on it. It ran for about 5 minutes then begain to get really weak, I mean it wouldn't even spin the tires in loose dirt. Then all of a sudden it stalled, it was hard to pull over, so I just brought it home and let it sit.

Today I finially decided to see what was going on, so I tore it apart. Looks like a wrist pin clip decided to come loose and break-dance all over inside. What a mess. So I cleaned everything out (I did not seperate the crank case) I used about a quart of 2 stroke gas and flushed and flushed. After I was sure everything was clean and the big-end rod bearings looked clean and in good condition. I threw the stock 26cc head (and piston of course) back on and sealed everything up (and I mean everything) with Permatex Ultra Copper. The only thing I could find in the crank case was a small piece of wire (in the pic below) I find it strange though, this wire is perfectly straight. hmmm?

Back in the truck I set the h needle at 1.5 and the low at 1.25 and it would not start, so I richened both up 1/4 turn. It fired up, but has the same lean bog it did last summer. I can make little or big carb adjustments but it makes no difference, still sounds lean.

It will not idle for more than about 2-3 seconds before it starts to die, a couple full throttle burps and it runs better for about 2-3 seconds, the the problem repeats itself. I should note the arrow on the piston is facing the exhaust port and the ring gap is facing the intake. Also I have a Jet-Pro silenced version 1.

Fuel flow form the fuel lines appears to be fine as it dumped half a tank all over my work bench. I connected the yellow fuel line to the top and the black line to the bottom of the carb. Is this correct? The motor and carb are stock other than the J/P pipe.

Any ideas?

Thanks Guys,
Trip..

**EDIT**I finally have a better camera, so here is what the piston and head looks like..
NewCamera161.webp
NewCamera164.webp
NewCamera153.webp
NewCamera160.webp

Finally added some better pics of the carnage. :lol:
 
Well that is definetly not a lean seize. I have never seen a clip eat up a motor so bad! How did you get the piston out? It must have realy jammed itself in the cylinder by the looks of all the extra traction marks on the piston.lol
 
Holy crap! That looks way worse up close. Did you dodge getting hit by the misses and block her with the piston.:laugh:
:lol: Nope not this time!!
Feel for you mate, that is some bad luck....Hope you get her up and running soon...
This is an old post, it's one that I posted a few months ago... I have a brand new CY Gp290 now!
Wow,now thats bad! But mate look on the bright side,you have yourself a really cool looking door stop! ;)
J.
Yup... No worries though, that poop will buff out! :lol:
Well that is definetly not a lean seize. I have never seen a clip eat up a motor so bad! How did you get the piston out? It must have realy jammed itself in the cylinder by the looks of all the extra traction marks on the piston.lol
It came out "With a little force!"

Thanks for the concerns guys... I knew the webcam didn't do it any justice!! I had to show you guys what it "Actually," looked like!

Trip..
 
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