After Run Maintenance?

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307_Proud

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I just got my 32cc MT a couple days ago, new to 1/5th scale, not new to RC. Just curious what you guys all do before you put it away for a few days or the next day. Call me meticulous, but if its gonna sit for more than a day or two I like to make sure its cleaned up and ready to go when that time does arrive. Meaning: getting the truck all blow off, wipe everything down with a rag, clean and inspect all moving parts. Pull Batteries and get them charged up. Clean an re-oil the air filter, and on my nitros I would use after run oil. But what do you guys do for after run on these engines? Is it ok to leave fuel in the tank, as long as its not going to be there too long? Is KnN Air filter oil ok to use on these foam filters?
 
Hey Rob, Thanks. I was just talking about the K&N oil, used for the filters, is that stuff ok to use on our foam filters?
 
a k-n filter passes too much dust for these engines. if you are using a foam filter and are running in areas where there is really fine dust i reccomend going to a dirt bike shop and buying this air filter oil-- Maxima FFT. lightigrease the sealing areas on the filter also. lightly grease the sealing areas on the filter also. this oil is the gold standard - its a stringy tacky mess, but thats why its so good.
 
I know the oil doesn't have much of a consistency. For now I will stick with some actual air filter oil. Thanks for the heads up on the Maxima FFT oil. Im sure it will be a lifetime supply! At least I can still use it on my nitro rc's as well.

Another quick question. I know outerwares filters arent all that expensive, but is there a Frankenstine mod anyone has used, or tried for a flywheel/pull start cover? Im on the lookout for a material that will get me by, before I spend $25 for a tiny piece of fabric.
 
For the engines air intakes around the pull start, i use cheap black plastic window screen -cut to fit and glue in place.
 
alfred e numan said:
For the engines air intakes around the pull start, i use cheap black plastic window screen -cut to fit and glue in place.
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there are open air intake holes on the lower engine cases, these holes are also covered with the same plastic window screen-glued in place. you will have to remove the entire engine to install. it worth the effort.
 
Im gonna give the window screen a try. Does it need to be the metal stuff, or will the plastic screen be ok? What did you guys use to glue it in? I was thinking about using shoe goo. I just intend on doing the pull starter housing, as the other side is basically the outlet. I don't see much benefit from doing that. Itd be like putting a filter over your exhaust.
 
Use the plastic screen. shoe goo. the holes in the lower engine cases are intakes. all the air is forced towards the top of the engine. if you do not cover these holes, eventually you will pull in a rock and really do a number on the fly wheel, coil.
 
BertR said:
For the Frankenstein filter cover....if you have a woman at home, steel her stockings lol.
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That was my first thoughts! Nylons would work great, they may tear easily but cheap and easy. Gonna try the plastic screen first.
 
the nylons in the engine cases area is not strong enough and would plug up with trail trash instantly. the screens holes is better. if you ran only in the dunes, the outerwares or nylon might be better though. these 4wd cars toss lots of junk off the front tires- goes between the body-cassis. i use heavy duct tape on the body- so it can fold under the chassis, attatch velcro to the edges of the underside of the chassis & the duct tape. this keeps 90% of the trash out of the chassis. yes, it looks micky mouse- rough. but it works great. function beats form anyday.
 
lousy photo, but you get the idea--

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I like the idea of using some screen in the pull start housing. As well as making some sort of skirt to shield everything flying from the front tires. Im sure thats where 90% of the crud comes from. Being that Ive got some downtime with my truck (broken cvd) Its given me much more time to look over the truck and inspect everything. The two front shocks were low on fluid, tightened up the plastic part on the bottom of the shock body. Hoping that cures the small leak. Muffler bolts also seemed to find their way loose, even after some red threadlocker! Thinking, how tight to these need to be?! Ive come acrossed numerous other screws that were a little lose as well. Even noticed my other rear cvd is slightly bent. With not even a whole gallon through the truck! Im just gonna make it a point to run through the truck with a fine tooth comb, both after and before using. To prevent losing any screws or important parts that are going to leave me waiting on the mail! What are some good spare parts to keep around? Is it possible to obtain a complete screw set somewhere?

The addiction of rc! I know I have always spent more time wrenching on any of my rc's than I have actually running them! I love it.
 
For the exhaust drill a small hole in each hex head then use wire to wire the 2 bolt heads together that way they won't spin out.racers and aviation use this method.
 
I use the Stage 8 locking header bolts..great product until you lose a circlip and the locking part falls off and now you have a 20$ header bolt that keeps coming loose lol. What Ildy said with the bolts is a sure fire way to keep them from coming loose until you want them that way.
 
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