Air intake setup for 5t 2.0

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Farva8688

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Hey all.. New to the forum and new owner of a 5t 2.0. Wanting to upgrade the intake and exhaust. I already bought a ddm velocity stack and dt1 dome filter and they hit the cage when installed. So I took them off and went back to stock. What setups are you running for intake that does not require cutting the cage or modifying stuff to get it to work. Pics would be appreciated. And please be specific for your setups.. I'm still learning. Thanks!
 
There are two that I know about. Crazy Stu's (which I have) and Turtle Racing air box. You do not have to cut the cage for the Crazy Stu's. You cut between 1/2" to 3/4" off the tube and you are good to go.
 
I had the same choices for my 5T 2.0 and ended up with a Crazy Stu. Gets way better air flow than the Turtle Racing. At first I did not cut my cage, I just trimmed the Crazy Stu rubber pipe as short as possible on the carb side. Even then the body/cage didn't fit over it that great and getting the body screws in was a pain. I recently cut the "X" from the drivers side cage and now everything fits WAY better. Running a Bartelone pipe.
 
Negative, all you doing is slowing the air velocity, untill you get to the v stack. The engine will only take in what the carb can flow at a given throttle position. The "big tube" idea is great for wot, the smaller tube that more closely matched the carb will yield higher velocity air that will help improve torque. At any rate you have 2 limiting factors for how much air can get in the engine, carb size and airfilter capacity.(I'm not talking about pumping losses, or how efficient the air can get to the crankcase post carb) Most of us run rather large air filters so that doesn't typically seem to be the limiting factor, so all you have left is the carb itself. Now I will grant that the tr box has 2 90* bends, and that's never good for airflow, but from a volume of air standpoint, they should work equally well for doing the job asked of them. Both are more then capable of out flowing the engines needs.
 
Seandonato73 said:
Negative, all you doing is slowing the air velocity, untill you get to the v stack. The engine will only take in what the carb can flow at a given throttle position. The "big tube" idea is great for wot, the smaller tube that more closely matched the carb will yield higher velocity air that will help improve torque. At any rate you have 2 limiting factors for how much air can get in the engine, carb size and airfilter capacity.(I'm not talking about pumping losses, or how efficient the air can get to the crankcase post carb) Most of us run rather large air filters so that doesn't typically seem to be the limiting factor, so all you have left is the carb itself. Now I will grant that the tr box has 2 90* bends, and that's never good for airflow, but from a volume of air standpoint, they should work equally well for doing the job asked of them. Both are more then capable of out flowing the engines needs.
Click to expand...
Get em Sean?
 
Ok so I've been doing some research. Found the formula for efficient air filter volume.(this only applies to natural induction) Formula is CID x peak hp rpm / 25500 = filter area needed
I used a 32cc engine converted it to ci (1.9528 ci) used 16k as max rpm, but in reality max hp should be a bit lower. Came up with a filter that is at least 1.2252 in². So like I said filter isnt really an issue with most of what we use.
Now the part im having a hard time finding is cfm for the carb. The best I could find was a calculator that based cfm, off of a few measurements of the carb, and cid of engine, I also just plugged in 100% fill efficiency which is improbable with a naturally aspirated engine, full blown race cars get in the 85 to 95% range. All things being equal well go with the benefit of the doubt. Any way, I basically came up with 3cfm being the requirement. (I'm not 100% sure on this, I was using some rough numbers, because there isnt much flow information on carbs this small)
So a std pipe of 3/4" straight (no bends) flows 2.2 cfm @atmospheric pressure. The calculator I used wouldnt let me go past that, so I jumped up to a 1 inch pipe and got 3.6cfm at atmospheric pressure. Now we all run larger pipes then this, so that would increase the cfm they could handle. So from my very rough math with a few assumptions and giving the engine the benefit of the doubt for efficiency. The carb is still the limiting factor for filling the engine at peak hp under a load.
 
I'm running the stock 2.0 air box with a outerwear cover on it. Had to cut back on the fuel tank mount as it's up against the airbox.
Haven't had any problems.
 
Farva8688 said:
Hey all.. New to the forum and new owner of a 5t 2.0. Wanting to upgrade the intake and exhaust. I already bought a ddm velocity stack and dt1 dome filter and they hit the cage when installed. So I took them off and went back to stock. What setups are you running for intake that does not require cutting the cage or modifying stuff to get it to work. Pics would be appreciated. And please be specific for your setups.. I'm still learning. Thanks!
Click to expand...
Dt1 dome filter rite to the wt velocity stack with an outerwear. It will clear the cage thats what i use
 

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