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Mike4130 said:
Here is what my piston looked like after 2 months (And no more than 6 hours at the most total run time) running Klotz synthetic oil. I also have a bent crankshaft as a result I believe. If you'll notice the the top of the piston where there is no build up, I 'm thinking there was zero or even (-)squish causing the force of the piston hitting to bend the crank. Either way, the piston & cylinder were a mess and the motor never ran right. I dropped in a new motor with a 990 carb and I'm up & running. (Without the Klotz...)

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Is this the same photograph taken weeks ago that the base gasket was gone? just wondering.
 
Yea, thats a very rich looking build up - so black. The areas with no carbon are as clean as a part thats never been ran, no tell tale signs of getting hot in those areas either- nothing baked on.- weird.
 
alfred e numan said:
Yea, thats a very rich looking build up - so black. The areas with no carbon are as clean as a part thats never been ran, no tell tale signs of getting hot in those areas either- nothing baked on.- weird.
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Oh yea, I have seen in the past heavy carbon make hot spots on pistons, cause then to seize up. Another thing that could have happened- if it got lean with all that build up - when it starts coming off - it just hammers parts- good chance this is what happened.- There is quite a large squish clearence on the stock hy engines, soo its doubhtful there was actually any bindind at top dead center as it was running.
 
On squish clearance, With one top end it means nothing. The CY-29cc. This has about 3 times the gap that most engines have. If you have a Hy-30.5 Stock redcat mill with a wasted top end- freshen up the bottom end- nachi bearings- zenoah seals. find a CY-29 top end on sale- DDM- Large scale rc at times has these- 30-35 bucks. run the ada manafold-990- good pipe- its a fun engine- not much hi rpm- but really big off idle -midrange power- its the way they cut the jug to fit engines with 30mm rods- and the way its ported by the factory.- really controllable power.
 
Here is the top end- go to daves discount motors- DDM, enter this- CA-486.-- $49.00. Its a way to have a good basher motor on a beer budget!!
 
Mike4130 said:
A little burnt, the carb was running lean. I've since replaced it with a 990. I'm sure it was a combination of problems that caused my motor issues.
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A burnt plug will be white or grey from ash. If it was black and full of carbon like the piston, that is caused by running too rich.
 
alfred e numan said:
Here is the top end- go to daves discount motors- DDM, enter this- CA-486.-- $49.00. Its a way to have a good basher motor on a beer budget!!
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Thanks for your input!
 
I have one of these displacement mills on the bench, a few gallons ran tru it. My secret -not everyone agrees, is to buy the graphite coated stainless steel base gasket from DDM, buy 3 or 4 and use the one with the best coating on it. start the engine enough to come up to temp, cool, retorque, do this 2 or 3 times. I use the standard paper gasket on the center cases. This sealed my top-end. others have not had the same results-
 
alfred e numan said:
I have one of these displacement mills on the bench, a few gallons ran tru it. My secret -not everyone agrees, is to buy the graphite coated stainless steel base gasket from DDM, buy 3 or 4 and use the one with the best coating on it. start the engine enough to come up to temp, cool, retorque, do this 2 or 3 times. I use the standard paper gasket on the center cases. This sealed my top-end. others have not had the same results-
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I am still 1/2 asleep-lol. Use these bolts on the jug on the engine, no washers, no locktite.-- HPI part # 15438. Wide Cap Head Torx Screw. M5 x 20 MM. You will need a T-27 Wrench tighten. # 15438 contains 4 bolts.
 
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