Wetsparks
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- 18
- Location
- Tyne & Wear
Having read the excellent article by Bigger the Better (cant find it for now) on how to make your own Kill Switch, thought I'd have a go. So just for the interest I've documented my little effort with some photos (I know you like photos) for you 
Pics are all thumbs so click for large view.
To start with I had an old spare Futaba S3010 servo that I stripped down:
All the gear bits were discarded just leaving the circuit board and the case.
Next I removed the motor and sourced a small N/C 6v Reed Relay for the switching. Note I left the track of the feed back pot in place, more of that in a while:
Next was to wire up the relay ready for fitting to the board:
With the relay now ready I soldered the wires to the circuit board along with the leads for the LED indicator. Then I hooked it all up to a Rx/Tx and battery, nothing. Forgot about the pot track so I wired a small bridge between one end of the track and the centre contact, this would make the board drive to the end limit one way, it doesn't matter which.
Some sort of life but the relay would not open the contact properly, then the penny dropped, the output from the board is not full on +v but PWM that is the output is pulsed to drive the motor. Dug out me scope to prove this:
Problem sorted, soldered a 100uf capacitor across the output and it worked perfectly.In the pic you can also see the small wire bridge on the feed back pot:
Then it was just a matter of fitting it all together, removing the gear and pot stubs from the top of the main case creates enough room in the top housing to fit the relay and wiring easily:
Then just fir it in the car, solder on the LED, wire to the cut out switch and test:
So far seems to work OK. I'm hopefully out on a bash tomorrow so Ill let you know how it works out
Pics are all thumbs so click for large view.
To start with I had an old spare Futaba S3010 servo that I stripped down:
All the gear bits were discarded just leaving the circuit board and the case.
Next I removed the motor and sourced a small N/C 6v Reed Relay for the switching. Note I left the track of the feed back pot in place, more of that in a while:
Next was to wire up the relay ready for fitting to the board:
With the relay now ready I soldered the wires to the circuit board along with the leads for the LED indicator. Then I hooked it all up to a Rx/Tx and battery, nothing. Forgot about the pot track so I wired a small bridge between one end of the track and the centre contact, this would make the board drive to the end limit one way, it doesn't matter which.
Some sort of life but the relay would not open the contact properly, then the penny dropped, the output from the board is not full on +v but PWM that is the output is pulsed to drive the motor. Dug out me scope to prove this:
Problem sorted, soldered a 100uf capacitor across the output and it worked perfectly.In the pic you can also see the small wire bridge on the feed back pot:
Then it was just a matter of fitting it all together, removing the gear and pot stubs from the top of the main case creates enough room in the top housing to fit the relay and wiring easily:
Then just fir it in the car, solder on the LED, wire to the cut out switch and test:
So far seems to work OK. I'm hopefully out on a bash tomorrow so Ill let you know how it works out
