Another won't start ......
- Thread starter Subtlebeast
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The gap between flywheel and coil should be no more than a business card thickness.
Just make sure the stop switch is not sticking. When it makes a connection it grounds out the coil, eliminating spark.
Just make sure the stop switch is not sticking. When it makes a connection it grounds out the coil, eliminating spark.
alfred e numan
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It does help to have a stand, just high enough to get the wheels off the ground. if you use a piece of wood, glue some old carpet padding on top of the stand. this will allow you to be able to give the car some throttle as you crank the engine over. only do this with the choke open. at times as you learn the engine, you may have to hold the throttle nearly wide open to give the engine enough air to lean out a bit and fire up. sayy- check this out. i only run non ethanol gas in the old lawn mower, damm thing set outside all winter- covered of course, go to start it- same gas from last fall- pump the fuel bulb 10 times- it started 3 pull. no b.s.! I still cussed cause then i had to mow. --- should buy a goat or something- mowing - i have better things to do--- like swap lies with you guys here--- lol.
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Neff said:
Subtlebeast
Junior Member
- Thread starter
- #27
I am new to the whole. 5th scale and this video was helpful. It covers a engine build, clutch install. Carb install and setting gap.
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Another stupid quick question.... If i disconnect the factory kill switch by removing one wire and then try to see if I get spark, am I safe to assume that the switch is sticking, eliminating the need to go further and check the coil to flywheel gap? Correct?
Ok. Switch a no go. No spark with it unplugged
coil to flywheel. Loosened the two coil bolts, put in a buisness card, the pressed the coil assembly down and retightened. Pulled the card out and put the pull start mech back on...
I HAVE SPARK. WITH EVERY PULL
But.... now that it's 11pm, don't want to piss off the neighbors, I will have to wait till tomorrow evening to try and give it it's 1st start.
Wish me luck
coil to flywheel. Loosened the two coil bolts, put in a buisness card, the pressed the coil assembly down and retightened. Pulled the card out and put the pull start mech back on...
I HAVE SPARK. WITH EVERY PULL
But.... now that it's 11pm, don't want to piss off the neighbors, I will have to wait till tomorrow evening to try and give it it's 1st start.
Wish me luck 
claude bigelow
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Good luck, been there I know the feeling.
G
Guest
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Good to hear. Sounds like your good to go.
Just went out to start it and nothing... pulled the plug out to check spark, and it's not getting any again. This is the 1st time I've tried to start since finally getting spark last weekend and just putting it back together. Getting frustrated. Should have stuck to electric I'm thinking.
Help anyone? Ideas? Maybe adjust the coil again?
Help anyone? Ideas? Maybe adjust the coil again?
Ildy666
Well-Known Member
Is ur kill switch green lite on? Some radios u have to manually turn on killer bee
Hey guys, Neff's dad here. I'm an electronics engineering technician. I checked the coil resistance. Near dead short on the primary, about 5K ohms on the secondary ... as expected.
Then we looked at the kill switch. It looked good Until we put the rubber boot back over it. As other here have found out, sometimes it makes the switch hang up and short out the coil primary. So we left it off and tried starting the engine again.
We have continuous spark on the plug now, but still can't get the engine to "pop". Every time we take out the plug, it's fairly wet. I'm thinking the engine is getting flooded.
We've tried both choking and not choking. For now, we're leaving the plug out and letting the cylinder and plug dry out.
My guess is that the engine is drawing in too much gas on every pull. Is that possible?
Also, should we be able to pull the two fuel lines off the carb (to kill the gas going to the carb) and still be able to start the engine (with what amount of gas is still in the carb)?
Or does the carb only pull gas in on every pull? In other words, is there a "bowl" that is full of gas? Or does it only pull in gas on the pull starts and when the engine starts to run and naturally pulls gas in due to suction?
Any ideas, since we now have continual spark? It has to be a gas/air issue at this point.
One other thought ... could it be "weak" spark? We're thinking it doesn't take much spark to ignite the gas, so our thought it that any spark should be enough. Neither the factory plug, nor the NGK that my son put in will get the engine to "pop". Spark, yes. "Pop", no.
The engine just doesn't seem to even want to try to ignite ... judging by my other two cycle engines such as weed eaters, leaf blowers, and chain saws.
Thanks in advance.
Neff and his Dad
Then we looked at the kill switch. It looked good Until we put the rubber boot back over it. As other here have found out, sometimes it makes the switch hang up and short out the coil primary. So we left it off and tried starting the engine again.
We have continuous spark on the plug now, but still can't get the engine to "pop". Every time we take out the plug, it's fairly wet. I'm thinking the engine is getting flooded.
We've tried both choking and not choking. For now, we're leaving the plug out and letting the cylinder and plug dry out.
My guess is that the engine is drawing in too much gas on every pull. Is that possible?
Also, should we be able to pull the two fuel lines off the carb (to kill the gas going to the carb) and still be able to start the engine (with what amount of gas is still in the carb)?
Or does the carb only pull gas in on every pull? In other words, is there a "bowl" that is full of gas? Or does it only pull in gas on the pull starts and when the engine starts to run and naturally pulls gas in due to suction?
Any ideas, since we now have continual spark? It has to be a gas/air issue at this point.
One other thought ... could it be "weak" spark? We're thinking it doesn't take much spark to ignite the gas, so our thought it that any spark should be enough. Neither the factory plug, nor the NGK that my son put in will get the engine to "pop". Spark, yes. "Pop", no.
The engine just doesn't seem to even want to try to ignite ... judging by my other two cycle engines such as weed eaters, leaf blowers, and chain saws.
Thanks in advance.
Neff and his Dad
Silent_Chaos
Well-Known Member
First, you might want to see if your carb is working properly.
A good replacement and an upgrade would be the walbro 813. (It doesn't have a choke, u just pull it 5-6 times and the engine shld start). You can get that from DDM.
As for the spark. Get an NGK spark. They're the best.
Remove your spark plug. put your truck upside down and pull start 10 times, and even 15 times. This will empty up the excess fuel in the engine.
Now, re insert your plug, tighten it well, put the cap on.
Pump the carb yellowish button 4-5 times so that it sucks fuel in.
For the needle, your right needle is the low rpm needle, your left one is the high rpm needle.
Reset them both to closing position.
Re open both of them to 1.5 turns.
Pull start your engine. This should make it work on the 7th or 8th pull.
You will notice that the engine is running to rich on the low rpm, and is bogging down. reclose the low rpm needle 0.3 -0.4 turns.
So in the end you'll have
~1.25ish turn on the low needle
And 1.5 turn on the high needle.
If you are still having problems, then id advise you to go to the nearest hobby shop and ask for help.
OR get a new engine
(you'll be upgrading it anyway, no body likes stock
)
A good replacement and an upgrade would be the walbro 813. (It doesn't have a choke, u just pull it 5-6 times and the engine shld start). You can get that from DDM.
As for the spark. Get an NGK spark. They're the best.
Remove your spark plug. put your truck upside down and pull start 10 times, and even 15 times. This will empty up the excess fuel in the engine.
Now, re insert your plug, tighten it well, put the cap on.
Pump the carb yellowish button 4-5 times so that it sucks fuel in.
For the needle, your right needle is the low rpm needle, your left one is the high rpm needle.
Reset them both to closing position.
Re open both of them to 1.5 turns.
Pull start your engine. This should make it work on the 7th or 8th pull.
You will notice that the engine is running to rich on the low rpm, and is bogging down. reclose the low rpm needle 0.3 -0.4 turns.
So in the end you'll have
~1.25ish turn on the low needle
And 1.5 turn on the high needle.
If you are still having problems, then id advise you to go to the nearest hobby shop and ask for help.
OR get a new engine
(you'll be upgrading it anyway, no body likes stock
)
Last edited by a moderator:
Silent_Chaos
Well-Known Member
Oh and for your kill switch, just remove it completely. Make the truck run a bit. Make surethat the problem is not the engine or carb/coil.
After that, read the killer bee manual on what each option does (you have 4 options).
If you're too lazy to read, just try them all, one of them should work.
On another note. Make sure that the distance between the coil and the flywheel should be 0.3mm which is the thickness of a business card.
Any other distance than this and your engine won't start.
As an advice, don't quit because you can't get an engine started.
You'll hate electric.. you'll have 13 mins of runtime and that's it. No sound no engine. No nothing.
Your worst case scenario is selling your stock engine and getting a better one for 300$ (rcmk 30cc from gizmo motors)
Let us know what happens.
Good luck.
After that, read the killer bee manual on what each option does (you have 4 options).
If you're too lazy to read, just try them all, one of them should work.
On another note. Make sure that the distance between the coil and the flywheel should be 0.3mm which is the thickness of a business card.
Any other distance than this and your engine won't start.
As an advice, don't quit because you can't get an engine started.
You'll hate electric.. you'll have 13 mins of runtime and that's it. No sound no engine. No nothing.
Your worst case scenario is selling your stock engine and getting a better one for 300$ (rcmk 30cc from gizmo motors)
Let us know what happens.
Good luck.
Last edited by a moderator:
I am using an NGK plug, do I need to buy another or should I be able to let this one dry out and reuse it? Same ques. for the stock plug
I did put the truck upside down and pulled 5-6 times. I saw fuel mist/spray coming out but did not continue to keep pulling as I thought it would keep doing that. Will it stop misting fuel when there is none left?
I did NOT prime the bulb after doing this as it still had fuel in it. So I guess I should have primed it again?
I've had the low and high adj where they should be from the factory and even closed them again and reset them again to spec... low 1 1/4 high 1 1/2.
Out of two local hobby shops, one in town and one an hour away, Neither know anything about Gas engine RC. they are strictly Nitro and that's all they know.
New engine, $300
Walbro 813 carb, $45
Killer Bee kill switch $?
Sorry but for now I am not trying to spend another $350 plus the price of a kill switch on a truck that won't start up. I'd have roughly $1000plus in it. A lot for me to spend if I did still have an issue.
If I would have known this was going to be an issue with this Redcat, I would have just bought the Used Losi 5ive T I was looking at which runs, for $1200 and that came with a Race engine already installed and running and a stock Spare Engine.
I did put the truck upside down and pulled 5-6 times. I saw fuel mist/spray coming out but did not continue to keep pulling as I thought it would keep doing that. Will it stop misting fuel when there is none left?
I did NOT prime the bulb after doing this as it still had fuel in it. So I guess I should have primed it again?
I've had the low and high adj where they should be from the factory and even closed them again and reset them again to spec... low 1 1/4 high 1 1/2.
Out of two local hobby shops, one in town and one an hour away, Neither know anything about Gas engine RC. they are strictly Nitro and that's all they know.
New engine, $300
Walbro 813 carb, $45
Killer Bee kill switch $?
Sorry but for now I am not trying to spend another $350 plus the price of a kill switch on a truck that won't start up. I'd have roughly $1000plus in it. A lot for me to spend if I did still have an issue.
If I would have known this was going to be an issue with this Redcat, I would have just bought the Used Losi 5ive T I was looking at which runs, for $1200 and that came with a Race engine already installed and running and a stock Spare Engine.
Silent_Chaos
Well-Known Member
Been there. Its frustrating. Same thoughts on the losi 5ive. Its a beast
Just remove the spark plug. Put the truck upside down, And pull the cord many times till all the fuel clogged in the engine is out. 25-30 times would do it.
For your plug, wipe it with a dry napkin, make sure the spark head isnt dirty/oily
As for the hobby shop, any person who has worked before on tree cutting saws should be helpful. Its the same engine.
At this point, forget anything that has to do with fail safe/kill switch. And if there's anything installed remove it. Our quest is to make the engine run.
Your low needle. Set it on 1.5 turns.
After doing the above steps.
Ur engine shld be fuel free now.
1) reput dry plug.
-put plug cap on
2) low needle set on 1.5
3) close choke
4)pull start till u hear 'an almost running' noise
5) when u hear it. Open your choke and pull start again till it runs.
That should do it
Just remove the spark plug. Put the truck upside down, And pull the cord many times till all the fuel clogged in the engine is out. 25-30 times would do it.
For your plug, wipe it with a dry napkin, make sure the spark head isnt dirty/oily
As for the hobby shop, any person who has worked before on tree cutting saws should be helpful. Its the same engine.
At this point, forget anything that has to do with fail safe/kill switch. And if there's anything installed remove it. Our quest is to make the engine run.
Your low needle. Set it on 1.5 turns.
After doing the above steps.
Ur engine shld be fuel free now.
1) reput dry plug.
-put plug cap on
2) low needle set on 1.5
3) close choke
4)pull start till u hear 'an almost running' noise
5) when u hear it. Open your choke and pull start again till it runs.
That should do it