Any camber or toes adjustments?

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DreamState

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Trying to get some more traction from my MT. When I got it the rear tires had a lot of negative camber and no toe in. I adjusted the upper turnbuckle which did adjust my camber back up to around 0, and on the lower arm there are 2 small turnbuckles. One in the front and one in the back of the arm. I used the one in the back and was able to achieve some toe in.

I took it outside and after about 50ft of slow driving one axle fell out along with what I guess would be called the axle cup that slides into the diff. Were these the actual adjustments for camber and toe and you just can't adjust them very far or what? Also what is the small turnbuckle on the front of the lower arm.

I'm guessing the front wheels have no adjustments at all. Also is that drive cup supposed to just slide right out of the diff like that with the axle out?
 
It really doesn't matter how much toe or camber you have, the stock [rock-hard] tires will offer very little traction until the weather breaks. Once that Florida heat and humidity kick in, the tires will grab pretty well on pavement, but they will never grab in the dirt. There is nothing you can do about the lack of traction with the MT tires aside from replacing them. As the tires age, the rubber will harden. The first year or so the rubber is semi-decent, but after that they just turn to black rubber rocks. One more reason to return that truck.

Tires and wheels...
http://www.davesmotors.com/s.nl/c.885035/n.1/it.A/id.1991/.f

Once you get the rear toe reset back to where it belongs, the dogbones won't fall out anymore. If you still have problems with the d/b falling out, cut a short length of foam ear plug or silicone fuel tubing and stick it in each side of the drive cups (both inboard and outboard cups) that will center the d/b in the middle of the drive cups helping to keep them in place.

There is no front adjustment other than toe, it's just the nature of the beast. It's a Monster Truck, FG feels it requires no adjustment.
 
But are the points where I made the adjustments actually the adjustment points for camber and toe, and what is the adjustment point on the front side of the back lower a-arm? Thanks for the tip with the foam by the way
 
How far out did you back the turnbuckles?

When I switched all my plastics over on my buggy, I just put everything back to stock. I know camber and toe can be adjusted through those, I just pulled them in tight and then backed them out one turn. The Camber should be adjusted through the rear upright turnbuckle.

Somebody like Pipeous needs to tell you where to set everything, or at least someone that knows more than I.
 
on the lower arm you have 2 adjustments. the back and front. do like I posted in the link and get the track width right. worry about the toe in after. get the track width set so the dogbones have a little play. that's using the back adjuster. then the front lower adjuster does your toe in. the upper arm is for doing the camber but you have to get the width set first as it will change the camber.
 
Gotcha. When I was adjusting that back adjustment I thought it seemed like it was barley changing the toe. I'll give it a try, thanks guys. I did re-adjust everything today a little and they stay in now but I will try your way so I get it right.
 
it's just something most people don't think about. and getting the truck squared up really helps handling. I run on road mostly and it makes a huge difference in how the vehicle drives. it's like measuring shock lengths to make sure they are the same so suspension is consistent (adjusted by how far the ends are screwed on).

most models don't have the width adjustment like the fg's
 
Hey guys,

I have a couple quick questions on this. I have a MT and the rear tyres have what I think is way too much toe in .. it actually looks like more on the left hand side than the right as well .. so not symmetrical .. anyway my questions are:

1. how do you find out your toe angle? draw lines on the table?, use string?, use a protractor in a set of mathematical instruments from school? haha ;o) .. what is the technique that everyone uses for this?

2. how do you actually adjust the toe? .. what i'm probably being over paranoid about is that the lower wishbone has 2 inner adjustments, the front and back, do i just go ahead and turn the front one to dial out some toe? doesn't this affect the (lengthways not widthways) distance apart where the rod ends attach to the chassis? and more importantly doesn't this bend, stress and possibly fracture or crack the plastic lower wishbone?

Any advice would be great!

Porschester
 
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there are measuring tools you can get, but i just put my bettle on a stand, remove the shell & stand infront & behind & visually look then adjust as needed, works for me :)

im prob gunna get some elcon lower arms soon (ones that do away with the ball joints) far less hastle than the alloy arms im using at the mo.
 
masking tape on the kitchen table, a tape measure for getting widths, a square for checking camber and toe in is what I use. I put pics and such in the thread link
 
hey pipeous, hows things?
yes i saw that link before .. but now you mention it I can see what you had to do .. I had it in my head to take the tyres off to do the setup but now realise thats silly and it should be done with the tyres on.
Any comments about the camber adjustment? do i just go ahead and turn .. ;o)
Porschester
 
yup. set width, set toe, set camber. has to be done in order for it all to work right.

realistically a set of rims with no tires would probably give a more accurate read but I don't normally have rims without tires kicking around since I prefer buying pre mounts
 
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