any ideas? got spark, go fuel, no start

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o.k. after a tank of fuel she's running rough lots of popping,but i need to tune it a bit more,but i'll worry about that after i get some break in time on it,anyone know the temp range for that? should i heat cycle like a nitro? i don't want to compare it to a nitro engine so i have not done that,
my first tank i let it idle for 10 min. ran it at half throttle for 10 mins, and gave it a 3/4- full throttle for 5 sec. to clear the throat out of any oils,and let it sit agan for 10 mins and started the process all over
 
o.k. when it rains it pours, i have to thank inetgy for this one,
after pulling my arm out trying to start this engine, i switched the pullstarter to the drill start from integy when i pulled the engine ti remove that shim, after i initially got it going i switched back,well i noticed some gouges i the flywheel spin horn, but i figured they where not that bad about 1/8" notch on the lower half where the flywheel horns start to taper to the body, well after i was running the engine for that 1 tank, and started to work on the second, i heard a sudden burst of ratteling, i thought i blew the engine, but it still ran,then i thought the clutches blew apart, nope, that notch must of cracked 1of the clutch wheel catch horns becuase the pullstarter itself was broken in different spots, pull that and all the fins to the flywheel gone,and 1 of the horns completely gone, it seems the integy drill starter catchers are square and blocky on both sides the disengage sides are not tappered down just a straight edge thats what cut the notches in the flywheel horns, gotta love this iwas stoked to get the engine up and running getting ready to rip the burms here at the airport,just a awesome time with this buggy, i should pull out my other one and call it day with this one
 
yah i had a drill starter too, not from integy tho, but cant find a drill with nuff rpms to really turn it over good, PS i get more spin with, lol thats what after it borked the original PS and messing with it trying to fix it, i discovered that the pawl would cock over as it threw itself outward to engage the flywheel, then i found one on ebay with the collar around the pawl molded onto the rope wheel, i messed with it a bit before installing it, and each time it threw outward the pawl was kept dead center and not cocking over, i installed it and haven't had issues since then. alot of peeps i hear, just run the truck at factory set tune for a tank or 2, its USUALLY, not always set a lil rich, which is fine for breakin, then you do final adjusts on carb. thats what i did on mine, but since then too i upgraded the carb end of things with the boostindustries metal manifold and the phat angled carb velocity stack, i had to retune it cuz more airflow to engine. im not a fan of integy myself, my rock crawlers do have a few integy parts on them, but that is rock crawlers not these monster truck gassers. i heard rumors from others on integy products, and it wasnt good. but other rumors that theyre the best, so maybe theyre crap, maybe not, but i wont be using any integy on my T1000.
 
yeah integy is a basicly king motors, they do all the alloy parts for king motors,and you can tell by so many mistakes they make i have steering crank set one side threaded correctly the other to small,waiting for the hobby shop i got them from to get a replacement in,i only buy them since when i go there website i get a customer discount,but only for items i know they cant screw up now, the drill start was something burred in my baja box of parts, i'll get it up by weeks end i got parts coming from daves and china
 
chitown joe said:
yeah integy is a basicly king motors, they do all the alloy parts for king motors,and you can tell by so many mistakes they make i have steering crank set one side threaded correctly the other to small,waiting for the hobby shop i got them from to get a replacement in,i only buy them since when i go there website i get a customer discount,but only for items i know they cant screw up now, the drill start was something burred in my baja box of parts, i'll get it up by weeks end i got parts coming from daves and china
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Ok now im confused. You bought a Km RC and then switched the engine because it was bad? I thought these king motor engines were pretty reliable? Is this the case or am I totally off track? I just don't want to spend $600-800 for a KM truck, and have the thing arrive with broken parts, and a bad engine. Im now thinking of buying a used hpi 5t, unless someone on here can change my mind on this.
 
Fireman, you already said in the OTHER thread your getting one. YES, some of these trucks have bad stuff from the factory, or damaged from shipping, and YES, it does not matter the brand either, it happens to them all.

if ur want ing to save, then buy the KM, unless you got the money buy HPI, then spend the few hundred bucks on top that upgrading, or repairing the same damn parts thats gonna break on it as wood a KM as well.

your choice bro, get what you want.
 
Fireman15 said:
Ok now im confused. You bought a Km RC and then switched the engine because it was bad? I thought these king motor engines were pretty reliable? Is this the case or am I totally off track? I just don't want to spend $600-800 for a KM truck, and have the thing arrive with broken parts, and a bad engine. Im now thinking of buying a used hpi 5t, unless someone on here can change my mind on this.
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again what are you confused about?
like i said stop reading and start thinking for yourself, the engine issue could of happended to any brand, and i have had it happen to HPI stuff before,
you keep saying "i'm confused" "someone needs to change my mind", you know from the way your jumping from hpi to km and back, like someone else said just get the used hpi and then you have no reason to blame Km for anything, this way we can read how you got screwed buying a used hpi and you will blame the seller.
 
Fireman15 said:
Ok now im confused. You bought a Km RC and then switched the engine because it was bad? I thought these king motor engines were pretty reliable? Is this the case or am I totally off track? I just don't want to spend $600-800 for a KM truck, and have the thing arrive with broken parts, and a bad engine. Im now thinking of buying a used hpi 5t, unless someone on here can change my mind on this.
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and i wasnt refering to the engine here, i was refering to integy which bill inspects here in california, after the parts come from china's Hyteck machining shop,
 
got all the parts in engine running fine,got my parts from daves, and my pipes in from dan put it all back together painted the clutch housing,and changed the gaskets to the reinforced crush-able from daves,after checking the last ones paper type where seeping fuel/oil,sounds real wicked with that pipe.
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Nice upgrades! Let me know how those front brakes work. I'm looking at doing something similar. I'm halfway through breaking in my Zenoah, I'm anxious to see the difference. It's already much snappier than the KM was.
 
25:1 is too much oil. I had nothing but starting problems with this oil mix. I now run 50:1 amsoil. Starts every time with just 2 pulls. Check your carb settings. 1-1/2 low and 1-3/4 high+ - 1/4 turn. Also check for air leaks around the carb and put a new plug in. Don't throw out the old one. Just clean it and reuse it later.:)
 
Largescalebuilder said:
25:1 is too much oil. I had nothing but starting problems with this oil mix. I now run 50:1 amsoil. Starts every time with just 2 pulls. Check your carb settings. 1-1/2 low and 1-3/4 high+ - 1/4 turn. Also check for air leaks around the carb and put a new plug in. Don't throw out the old one. Just clean it and reuse it later.:)
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i agree with 25/1 being to much oil ian oddie recomended me to use 30/1 for my oddie 23cc he said for a 23cc 25/1 was to rich ive never had problems but good oil is a must! i only run fully syn
 
renbar said:
i agree with 25/1 being to much oil ian oddie recomended me to use 30/1 for my oddie 23cc he said for a 23cc 25/1 was to rich ive never had problems but good oil is a must! i only run fully syn
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I agree that 30:1 could be considered as an alternative. I personally wouldn't run 50:1, but I wouldn't hessitate at 30:1. If it takes a 50:1 mix to just get it started, there are other underlying issues not being addressed.
 
yeah i wont be running 50-1 mix i might stretch to 30-1,the engine started after the head shim was removed, so its not a fuel/oil mix it's a displacement issue,some of my other engines wont turn over without the shim, others will,so it just depends on what engine and who makes it,carb settings where and are fine.
 
25:1 is fouling the plug out. I haven't had any problems with 50:1. It starts much easier now and that was the problem. Too much oil can make the engine not start. You need spark, fuel and air to fire it up. All my G2d engines use 50:1 so do my new engines. You can tell when a engine is getting too much oil by what is comming out the exhaust. I always had a lake and mess to clean up and lots of smoke. Now with the new 50:1 I have less oil mess and less smoke if any.
 
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