Are there any alternative shock for the MT

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yzfandy

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Hi all been playing about with the suspension on the MT since getting it and have improved it a bit but it eventually comes down to the standard shocks are just junk.

What I've done so far is first oils, 50w all round. Taken off the anti roll / sway bar. Holes in the wheels and tyres to stop bounce.

All that helps but you can still tell the suspension isn't free enough to get the grip its lacking.

I've been looking at the HPI Savage shocks or at least the alloy upgraded one's. They are long enough and have ball jointed sockets to allow them to move freely and not bind. Just wondering if they would cope with the weight.?
 
the shock oil fg send them out with is either 1000 or 2000 (this isn't a wt oil but cts, check the link at the end of this post that explains wt to cts viscosity) I put 600 in mine on my fgbaja and it improved it quite a bit, the fg alloy pistons with orings will vastly improve them
http://www.rc-car-online-shop.de/cgi-bin/cosmoshop/lshop.cgi?action=showdetail&wkid=14320&ls=e&nc=1229388797-14332&rubnum=&artnum=daempfer_0004&file=&gesamt_zeilen=0Tsuche--shock%20piston
...it's a case of trying different oils, springs and preload with any shock you buy even the fg alloy ones, until you find the right setting

The savage shocks you mention definitely will not handle the weight...they'll probably be buggered on your first run...don't waste your cash.

http://www.twf8.ws/php/tip/shock.html
 
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mooman007uk: How many avatars do you have?:clown: At least I can see this one better just not sure what your meaning with it?:laugh:

yzfandy:

Remember this is a MT. A big heavy one. Boxy, with a short wheel base. In no way will it be like a buggy or a Nitro/Elec model.:)
I've heard some have added holes in the plunger ends inside the shocks also.
You could try a lighter spring.
You could try running 4 instead of 8.
For take off grip try your rears backward. Also make sure your M's are in front and H's in the rear. The letters stand for hardness.
What type of steering servo are you using? The better the servo the more it will hold the steer. Also check that your servo saver shaft is not broken or that your spring is not tweaked allowing more slop then normal.
 
Cant ad any thing to that.
God advise you got ther.
Holes in your tiers is a no. bad thing thes are not Nitro, the tier will weken and rioe befor ites time.
 
mooman007uk:
What type of steering servo are you using? The better the servo the more it will hold the steer.

The servo I believe is a KO PROPO PDS-8044 ICS. I'll check later but its in there at the moment and i can't see the writing.

Yes have the M's on front and H's on the back and all steering bits seem correct.

Most of that seems aimed at lack of steering but for what it is that seems ok. The problem is how poor the suspension seems. When cornering for example it doesn't seem to lean into the corner, rather it just lifts the inside wheels. Then when you put the power on it just unloads all that power out of the light wheel.
Now before you mention it thickening the diff up will only lose the steering going into a corner. It just seems like better, free'er suspension would sort a lot of it out.

These look good
attachment.php
Where did they come from and are they just a straight swap ?
 
I use the Alloy FG shocks (4 of them), although I did seal up the breather holes in the top as they would keep weeping, which was annoying.
 
The servo I believe is a KO PROPO PDS-8044 ICS. I'll check later but its in there at the moment and i can't see the writing.

Yes have the M's on front and H's on the back and all steering bits seem correct.

Most of that seems aimed at lack of steering but for what it is that seems ok. The problem is how poor the suspension seems. When cornering for example it doesn't seem to lean into the corner, rather it just lifts the inside wheels. Then when you put the power on it just unloads all that power out of the light wheel.
Now before you mention it thickening the diff up will only lose the steering going into a corner. It just seems like better, free'er suspension would sort a lot of it out.

These look good
attachment.php
Where did they come from and are they just a straight swap ?

I believe those are Losi LST shocks I have heard of people running them, but I have not tried them yet. Losi is distributed through Horizon.

Hope this helps,
Trip..
 
yup go the FG alloy shocks , they are great . i changed to the FG alloys and i couldnt be happier .. ill post pics when my site is back online .

i bought the pro5thscale ones but haven't come yet and from review here i don't want them now.

I decided to splurge and get the fg total alloy shocks...off ebay $81
208408479oxb4.jpg


needed new seals so i bought the alloy pistons and threaded shafts too from hobbythek...bastards charged me 29euro for a tiny padded envelope of parts...i have complained...total order $200CA... total for shocks $300CA...ouch! I don't think you can get any better though.
these pistons are supposed to totally transform the shocks
fg64841163766306ab2.jpg
 
yup fg alloys are the way to go ... i havnt brought anything off rc-car- online.de cause the AUS dollar is bad . i was going to buy the alloy pistons but i decided not to - yet .
 
I'll let you know if they're worth it...I've read that they vastly improve the shocks.
And I got a reply from hobbythek...it's not just the size but the insurable value that determines shipping cost?? so they charge for 1kilo weight?? I told them that I'd like the option in the future to decide if I want insurance and am sure insurance for 89 euro's of stuff wouldn't cost 21 extra euro.
The canada dollar is real crap too at the minute
 
Anyone tried the Elcon shocks? The work awesome on my Cleon, but then agian it's a great buggy!

The FG alloy shocks will be tons better than stock. The threaded shock shaft and aluminum piston will help a lot! The stock shocks always liked to have the c-clips bend inside with hard abuse.
 
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