Average clutch lifespan and metal clutches.

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Dashz

Dashz

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I have been dealing for a while with this issue, for some reason my clutches wear out very quickly (5-6 tanks). I bought a new clutch bell carrier with big ass bearings, after a couple of runs I noticed the clutch bell has a very very tiny play so it doesn't run perfectly true (it wiggles 0.5mm or less)
1. can this small imperfection cause this agressive wear in the clutch?
2. whats the average duration of a clutch in a Losi platform? ( I have a Rovan Baja full stock with 40 tanks in and the clutch is still working fine, but ofc its not 4wd and doesn't have to push 20Kg )

And 3. After replacing clutch bell and bearings if this is still an issue I plan on getting a metal clutch, is there something to consider when using these? Can I run the stock clutch bell or you need a special one for this?

Thx in advance.
 
I have an fs metal clutch and I don't see any "wear" just where the clutch is grabbing the bell. To use with your current bell just clean it with scotch Brite pad or Emory cloth
Something is off if your burning up clutches very fast. I have 2 clutches that had about 4-5 tanks each and they still looked almost new.

What's your setup and how is your driving characteristics? If you tend to ride the engagement point i could see you burning up a clutch as I did that one day and I could smell the clutch
 
Striikar said:
Its not normal to wear out that fast,what clutches are using?
Wear on the clutch depends on usage. A little play shouldn't cause this fast wear to happen.
Buy a F&S clutch (All Metal) you can run stock bell housing = ?
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Im using Rovan and Aliexpress el Cheapo clutches. BUT I have used a genuine Zenoah one in this setup and it didnt last just 5-6 tank... but 7 lol, so the issue is not the clutch for sure.
Thanks, Ill order that one to not have to wait when current one dies.
 
Got damn FFS what kinda witch craft you running in that rig? I wouldnt trust rovan or clone clutches but im sure their are people here that do use them but I doubt zen makes their own clutches I could be wrong but mine are all in perfect shape.
 
Rep732 said:
I have an fs metal clutch and I don't see any "wear" just where the clutch is grabbing the bell. To use with your current bell just clean it with scotch Brite pad or Emory cloth
Something is off if your burning up clutches very fast. I have 2 clutches that had about 4-5 tanks each and they still looked almost new.

What's your setup and how is your driving characteristics? If you tend to ride the engagement point i could see you burning up a clutch as I did that one day and I could smell the clutch
Click to expand...
Here ls the thing I go wot or 0 throttle, but this rig has a 29cc engine and it takes a while for the engine to rev up, like the clutch is slipping since the engine is not powerful enough to generate centrifugal force to bite the clutch bell, this is just a theory and will be tested with the new 36cc engine I got lol.
 
Hm. If the clutch is slipping and the only thing that hasn't changed is the bell ill say that the bell is what could be causing the ruckus here. Are you by chance using the same spring with all of these?
 
Rep732 said:
Hm. If the clutch is slipping and the only thing that hasn't changed is the bell ill say that the bell is what could be causing the ruckus here. Are you by chance using the same spring with all of these?
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I buy the whole set clutch and spring, and the bell Im currently using is new as well, seems to run true and very smoothly, (except for the little wiggle in the bearings.)
 
Dashz said:
I buy the whole set clutch and spring, and the bell Im currently using is new as well, seems to run true and very smoothly, (except for the little wiggle in the bearings.)
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Some of the stock clutches come with 6k springs, that little 29cc needs a bit more rpm before it gets its legs under it. That's most likely your issue. That and its geared too high= dead clutches fast
 
MonsterAir said:
You can get rid of that wiggle with shims. A worthy $5 investment.
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The wiggle is perpendicular to the clutch bell not transversal, with the clutch bell insides looking at me, I can move it to the sides not in an out. So it doesn't run perfectly true, like I said just by a hair, I wouldn’t say it is completely defective.
Ill upload a video later to show you guys.
 
After watching the video myself I don't think there is nothing wrong with it tbh. I will just mount it back and see if the 36cc engine and the new clutch with 8K springs does help.
anyways I have ordered the full metal clutch.
 
Just an update, after 2 tanks with the new engine, the vented clutch carrier is perfectly clean (no clutch residue) previously the holes got dark in a matter of 1 full tank.
What had some play were the bearings in the carrier holes, it seems they didnt fit there snuggled so the whole bearing was rotating inside eating the metal of the carrier itself!!

I used some Kapton tape on EE0553D4-8F6A-4349-B132-EDD0EF4A82D7.jpegthe walls inside of the carrier and now the bearings are pressed there very solidly in there. It seems like a good job. But what a fail for this bell carrier originally and it is not a 15$ part!
 
Rep732 said:
Green loctite #609 will help prevent your bearings from rolling in the bores
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I'd go for a light retaining compound. 609 is the end all be all. 641 is a medium strength that would be a bit better suited for this task, And is formulated to be removed without chance of part destruction. Now having said that I keep the high strength(609) version around as that's largely what we used at the machine shop, its primarily to augment a press fit on a shaft, ie don't want it to easily be removed or come loose.

https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/us/en/product/retaining-compounds/loctite_641.html
 
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