Baja 5B Taylor 35cc Engine Throttle/Brake Linkage Help

[zxb466]

Hello everyone,

I am in the process of finishing my HPI Baja 5B SBK. I installed a 35cc Taylor Reed engine and am having trouble with the throttle/brake linkage. Please see the attached pictures.

The linkage rubs against the clutch housing that came on the engine. If I move the linkage on top of the housing, then it rubs on top. If I move the linkage behind it, it still rubs. Has anyone encountered this issue before?

If I move the linkage back any further it moves freely but the brake link that actuates the brakes pops out. If the brake link was about 5mm longer it would have worked perfectly. I tried using both size carb spacers that came with engine and still same issue. Do they sell longer brake links so that I can move the linkage behind the clutch housing without the brake link popping out?

 

[Rep732]

Yea you need to bend the linkage, same thing happend on my 5ive t big bore .

 

[zxb466]

I will give that a try. Thank you! Very nice build you got there! Hope to one day build a big bore 5T also

 

[zxb466]

Yea you need to bend the linkage, same thing happend on my 5ive t big bore .View attachment 92677

Is there a tool that cleanly bends linkages?
Like the 90 degree type short bends that I can insert into the servo horn?
I tried with a vise grip and hammer and the linkage broke lol.

Yea you need to bend the linkage, same thing happend on my 5ive t big bore .View attachment 92677

Or is there another proper way to do it? What is the thing called that screws onto the servo horn and has a place on top for the linkage to go through and tighten?

 

[Rep732]

@zxb466 i use 2 needle nose pliers, use a sharpie marker to mark where you need to bend it. Put the 2 pliers next to each other where you want the bend and you will pull the rod through the stationary plier as the other makes the bend. Use pliers that don't have teeth otherwise you'll Marr the rod.

 

[zxb466]

@zxb466 i use 2 needle nose pliers, use a sharpie marker to mark where you need to bend it. Put the 2 pliers next to each other where you want the bend and you will pull the rod through the stationary plier as the other makes the bend. Use pliers that don't have teeth otherwise you'll Marr the rod.

Is it better to bend the linkage twice and insert it into the servo horn or to use those things that screw on the horn and the linkage goes into them and tightens
Not sure what those are called

 

[Rep732]

@zxb466 I know what your talking about, ofna used to use them alot on their 8th scale stuff. You can just put a z bend in the rod for the servo horn.

 

[zxb466]

@Rep732 What do you think of this linkage? https://www.ddmracing.com/Team-Twis...tle-Linkage-Set-for-HPI-Baja-5B-5T-5SC-BLACK-

 

[spents]

Hello everyone,

I am in the process of finishing my HPI Baja 5B SBK. I installed a 35cc Taylor Reed engine and am having trouble with the throttle/brake linkage. Please see the attached pictures.

The linkage rubs against the clutch housing that came on the engine. If I move the linkage on top of the housing, then it rubs on top. If I move the linkage behind it, it still rubs. Has anyone encountered this issue before?

If I move the linkage back any further it moves freely but the brake link that actuates the brakes pops out. If the brake link was about 5mm longer it would have worked perfectly. I tried using both size carb spacers that came with engine and still same issue. Do they sell longer brake links so that I can move the linkage behind the clutch housing without the brake link popping out?

View attachment 92675

View attachment 92676

try turning the eyelet of the brake arm the other way up first fella, so the eye is at the top instead of the bottom of the arm,
if that doesn't work then bend the linkage as rep says

 

[Fstnd378]

I bend linkages this way: first I hold the metal rod with this:then, I use a hammer. Sounds and kinda is very non professional but it bends clean 90°

 

[jeepfreak1972]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1933810297...1291&msclkid=3af18dfba6101f8ba112ebe8753dc96b


https://www.amazon.com/Oregon-42-455-Engine-Throttle-Bender/dp/B0018U2964

 

[spents]

try turning the eyelet of the brake arm the other way up first fella, so the eye is at the top instead of the bottom of the arm,
if that doesn't work then bend the linkage as rep says

just to clarify what i meant with the post above,
turning the eyelet upside down gives you a little more height on the brake rod,
that usually gives enough clearance for the brake rod to clear the clutch casing without having to move the rod towards the cylinder more ,
all depends how tall the 35 casing is though,

 

[DAVE1979SK]

https://www.taylorrc.co.uk/product-page/rcmax-titanium-baja-brake-cam
+
https://www.taylorrc.co.uk/product-...aded-hd-yamadude-style-linkage-with-ball-link
.

 

[zxb466]

https://www.taylorrc.co.uk/product-page/rcmax-titanium-baja-brake-cam
+
https://www.taylorrc.co.uk/product-...aded-hd-yamadude-style-linkage-with-ball-link
.

I sent Taylor RC an email yesterday and they sent me that also! Thanks for sharing.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1933810297...1291&msclkid=3af18dfba6101f8ba112ebe8753dc96b


https://www.amazon.com/Oregon-42-455-Engine-Throttle-Bender/dp/B0018U2964

I think I'm going to order one to give it a try and see what works best
I also ran across this Youtube video last night regarding Z bends:

Think it was very helpful!