Hello, I'm still new at 1/5 scales and I've had my baja for a month or so now. Today I was driving it, then I realized it was slowly moving without me giving it throttle, and when I gave it throttle, it seemed to lack power, so I shut it off. I then tried starting it again and it sounded like it was revving high and the clutch engaged so I shut it off again. I brought it home and my first thought was that the clutch was stuck engaged but I took off the clutch bell and it freed the clutxh. So I put it all back together once the clutch was freed and it still is revving high when I started it up. I havnt messed with any of the needles since I got it.(when I got it, the LSN needle to be leaned to actually start). I'm wondering if now that its getting cold here in Illinois, that I should richer the LSN needle now. Or maybe it's something worse than that. If you have any advice or have experienced this, please respond!
Baja high idle concerns.
- Thread starter TRX1994
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chitown joe
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idle screw maybe set a bit high,thats the large screw with the spring on it under the low and high needles,also check for a air leak on the intake side
atom3624
Well-Known Member
Are you sure the idle's high?
Check out some of the videos and get an idea what they're idling at.
If the answer's still YES, I'd reset the carb settings to 1 1/4 LOW, 1 3/8 HIGH, then try again.
'No power' when accelerating might be a de-laminating of the shoes on the clutch and the clutch is grabbing.
If the engine can't rev cleanly before the clutch engages then it will give an impression of bogging.
Air getting cold DOES mean higher charge density - more oxygen in the air, but LargeScale's aren't generally as sensitive to this as nitros.
There may still be the leak, as mentioned - this will give a falsely low fuel:air ratio, which will give those symptoms.
I'd reset the carb, check bolts are tight - on carburettor, head, etc - then consider the clutch, then look for leaks if not a bad seal through loose bolt.
Al.
Check out some of the videos and get an idea what they're idling at.
If the answer's still YES, I'd reset the carb settings to 1 1/4 LOW, 1 3/8 HIGH, then try again.
'No power' when accelerating might be a de-laminating of the shoes on the clutch and the clutch is grabbing.
If the engine can't rev cleanly before the clutch engages then it will give an impression of bogging.
Air getting cold DOES mean higher charge density - more oxygen in the air, but LargeScale's aren't generally as sensitive to this as nitros.
There may still be the leak, as mentioned - this will give a falsely low fuel:air ratio, which will give those symptoms.
I'd reset the carb, check bolts are tight - on carburettor, head, etc - then consider the clutch, then look for leaks if not a bad seal through loose bolt.
Al.
chitown joe
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that looks like a blown head gasket, that would be a air leak
- Thread starter
- #6
Haha, it's definitely a blown gasket, I just finished taking off the top and the gasket was all over. Well, I guess I'm getting to know my baja the hard way lol. Anyone know where to get a new gasket? Also, thanks a bunch for the help!
chitown joe
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ddm has them for about $7 the set
myrcbud
Well-Known Member
You can maybe get an aluminum isolator with teflon gaskets. Sometimes the pastic carb isolators will warp, making it nearly impossible to tune. There expensive, but over a long enough time there worth it.
http://www.davesmotors.com/s.nl/c.885035/n.1/it.A/id.4477/.f
http://www.davesmotors.com/s.nl/c.885035/n.1/it.A/id.4477/.f
atom3624
Well-Known Member
If you go for the aluminium insulator, use the paper gaskets in conjunction with the teflon ones as they don't seal very well.
There's also an extra breather hole to drill into the teflon gasket - the kit should tell you about this.
Al.
There's also an extra breather hole to drill into the teflon gasket - the kit should tell you about this.
Al.
chitown joe
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check manifold for leaks or carb gaskets
Ticker
Active Member
I had a problem like like this. My carb had come loose, tried to tighten the 2 screws and carry on, this happened a few times in @ 10 minutes. Took the car home and removed the air filter and them tightened everything up. Then she wouldn't start, took it apart and the gaskets were shot, made some new ones, still wouldn't run properly, sat down with a beer and thought about it. Conclusion was, I was tightening the 2 air filter screws too much and was pulling the spacer between the carb and cylinder out of shape and letting in air. Slacked them off a bit and job was a good one, starts 1st. or second pull and runs great.
- Thread starter
- #13
I checked the gaskets again and found that the gasket between the carb and the black thing on the side of the cylinder head had split apart. So, I'm going to replace that then loosen the air filter screws and see what happens. Thanks!
atom3624
Well-Known Member
Insulator block?
Al.
Al.
Ticker
Active Member
The air filter fasteners need to be tight but I had so many things come loose that day I was over tightening these. :lol: