baja pipes on dyno

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Yes it does and I all so have the CPI big bore getting ready to try it on a race ported 30.5 I put together. Then on a race ported 28.5 I put together.




make sure you post a vid i would like to see it run :D

Troy
 
As we speak I an trying to break in the 30.5. I just warmed it up once and waiting for it to cool. I am heat cycling it. I have a video camera but no one to video while I drive. Might put it on a tripod and see what I can do once broke in well. My yard is not real big. I have been told the CPI BB on the 30.5 you do not get the top RPM you can get with other pipes but the low end torque is unreal. Now on the 28.5 I was told work great both bottom and top. Time will tell.
 
Well, my experience with engine and car dyno's are, no 2 are alike. I have yet to produce the exact same figures on the same dyno, on the same sportbike, on 2 seperate dyno tuning sessions 4 days apart. So basically a dyno is just a tuning tool. It is best to just get a baseline figure in the beginning and do mods accordingly. The weather alone affects your state of tune as well.

So dyno figures from company A, who uses brand AA dyno and is basically at sea level will get different dyno readings from company B, who uses the same brand AA dyno but is at 6K ft. above sea level both using the same exact engine. Also if company A and company B have shops next door to each other but uses 2 different brands of dyno's will obviously get 2 different results using the same engine. The point I am getting across is, if comparing engine performance parts based on dyno figures, make sure it based off of the same dyno with the same basic engine to help base your decision. As for performance parts, I look at the overall HP/Torque curve on the graph. I don't really care for the peak HP figures. IMO having a high peak HP reading is worthless if there is a big dip in the mid-range.
 
I am not an expert by a long shot but I thought you where suppose to input things like humidity, temperature, altitude and so on and the software was suppose to figure all this in. I do agree with what you are saying as the end results is what real time is.
 
The dyno's I used had those sensors already. So the dyno's computer would factor those figures. As for these small engine dyno's, I have no clue. My post about dyno's was just a general blanket statement.
 
I totally agree as if you have a motorcycle dyno on one then take it elsewhere and put it on a dyno never the same. I have seen where you dyno a motorcycle get good numbers take it out for a ride and have to change the map to get it to run properly. Yes they are a good tool but that is all they are.
 
I totally agree as if you have a motorcycle dyno on one then take it elsewhere and put it on a dyno never the same. I have seen where you dyno a motorcycle get good numbers take it out for a ride and have to change the map to get it to run properly. Yes they are a good tool but that is all they are.

Yes, on cars and motorcycles, most tend to forget to factor in the fact the placement of the engine's air intake on the vehicle itself plays a major role while the vehicle is in motion. This area could have negative or positive air pressure as the vehicle's speed increases. Most sportbikes/sports cars have some sort of ram-air type intakes or a generic type ram-air set up. The dyno's I have used never had an attatchment to replicate real world use, some sort of large fan that increases with speed. Although I have seen a dyno with this large fan attatchement at a SEMA show in Las Vegas a few years back. Too bad I never seen one in any shop in use. Sorry this was kind of way off topic. I just wanted to point out a few things about dyno's in general.

But anyway, I doubt these fancy dyno's will be used for our small 2 stroke toys. It would be good to see the graphs of what certain parts/combos produce. Then the ones who understand all this lingo, could go out and just buy the parts that works once keeping in mind on what we want to achieve.
 
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