i just installed the Battle switch into Wingnuts Baja today. works pretty well on the test bench. cant start the motor at all unless the tx and rx are on and in communication with each other (or if the wires are unplugged going to the kill switch from the BattleSwitch. see mod below for more info). so far it is working as follows.
switch 3rd channel on Wings 3PM, the motor dies.
shut off the 3PM, the motor dies.
shut off the rx and the motor dies.
pull the rx wire from the battle switch, the motor dies.
so theoretically, if the baja goes out of range, or loses signal, has a low rx/tx battery, it should kill the motor. will test for out of range shut down once there is Wind is here to help.
all in all it should put Wings mind at ease, knowing if he has any problems, the motor will shut down, and the baja, if in a bad sitiuation, would shut down and it, nor no one else would/should be hurt.
the one con i can see of this unit is its size. it is BIG. about 1 inch cubed in size. but it is small enough to fit in a few locations, but the radio box and hidden inside the fan cover are out of the question. Wings got his roll bars installed with Red Windows, and the switches light would not show thru the red. so I had to come up with a small modification. and like most of what i do, i look for other ways to do things.
i ve seen a few of the other installs and took a few ideas from them as well during this install. so anyways, heres the setup.
Like Jeckler did, i coated the BattleSwitch, but i used Shoo Goo opposed to Goop. I like Shoo Goo over Goop, cuz its 2 words and not one, and Shoo Goo just sounds sexier than Goop. lol though its likely the same thing. dries spoogy and does a good job of sealing, and no conductivity. which may be somewhat important to a pcb. heh. Nice Idea Jeckler.
before i Shoo Goo'd it to the red windshield, i cut a piece of flat lexan i had here about the same size as the pcb. i then Shoo Goo'd it to the pbc, but only around the edges, and let it dry. Once the SG was dry, i then Shoo Goo'd the whole switch ala Jeckler, and let it dry.
as you can see, the BS is now attatched to the red windshield, how did i do that you ask? Magic maybe? not at all, no magic here, i just Shoo Goo'd the lexan piece and stuck it on the window in the appropriate location.
now for the wireing. as you can see, i used two 7.2 type battery ends, one male, one female, to run the wireing between the BS and the motors kill switch conections. i installed one end on the BS before i Shoo Good it to make it watertight as seen above, in the same location Jeckler did.
i took the other connecter, slide the open wired ends thru the rubber boots, and soldered them to the kill swith leads and covered it back up with the stock clear boots. very easy and clean this way. then ran that out the back of the motor shroud, and thru the center cage and zip tied it to the center cage.
the RX lead from the BS to the RX runs under the cage, and thru the front white rubber cap on the radio box, directly to the 3rd channel plug in, which is right below the same cap (see additional pics below). you just simply remove the cap, and unplug, or plug in as the case may be, the servo lead from the BS and the roll cage can be fully seperated from the buggy and the wireing, simply by unplugging it.
this is gonna help for future air filter maintenance as well as trouble shooting the motor, as you can just unplug the connector between the BS and the stock kill switch, and fire the motor up if need be. or to eliminate the BS as a source of the problem ect.... Also, when removing the cage, the BS' kill switch wires can be unplugged so it goes with the front cage.
Then I Temp installed the front half of the roll cage (uses Modifiers Roll Cage Mod. Bonus) and found a good position to mount the BS, keeping in mind the ability to see the light on the bottom of the PCB thru the Shoo Goo, Lexan, more Shoo Goo, and red lexan windshield. i knew i had to make a hole to see it thru and just had to line up the light with the hole i made using my body reamer.
so this is how that turned out.
so heres how it looks on a close up. Wax on.
close up, Wax off.
thats pretty much it. once Wingnut gets here Tue after work, we will check the radio signal loss from out of range issues on the BS and see how it goes. heres a few more pics
and FYI< this unit should work on ANY 3 channel readio system, though i recommend using a 2.4 ssytem as it will be less prone to interferance, thus repeated and annoyingly contineously stripping the kill switch.
switch 3rd channel on Wings 3PM, the motor dies.
shut off the 3PM, the motor dies.
shut off the rx and the motor dies.
pull the rx wire from the battle switch, the motor dies.
so theoretically, if the baja goes out of range, or loses signal, has a low rx/tx battery, it should kill the motor. will test for out of range shut down once there is Wind is here to help.
all in all it should put Wings mind at ease, knowing if he has any problems, the motor will shut down, and the baja, if in a bad sitiuation, would shut down and it, nor no one else would/should be hurt.
the one con i can see of this unit is its size. it is BIG. about 1 inch cubed in size. but it is small enough to fit in a few locations, but the radio box and hidden inside the fan cover are out of the question. Wings got his roll bars installed with Red Windows, and the switches light would not show thru the red. so I had to come up with a small modification. and like most of what i do, i look for other ways to do things.
i ve seen a few of the other installs and took a few ideas from them as well during this install. so anyways, heres the setup.
Like Jeckler did, i coated the BattleSwitch, but i used Shoo Goo opposed to Goop. I like Shoo Goo over Goop, cuz its 2 words and not one, and Shoo Goo just sounds sexier than Goop. lol though its likely the same thing. dries spoogy and does a good job of sealing, and no conductivity. which may be somewhat important to a pcb. heh. Nice Idea Jeckler.
before i Shoo Goo'd it to the red windshield, i cut a piece of flat lexan i had here about the same size as the pcb. i then Shoo Goo'd it to the pbc, but only around the edges, and let it dry. Once the SG was dry, i then Shoo Goo'd the whole switch ala Jeckler, and let it dry.
as you can see, the BS is now attatched to the red windshield, how did i do that you ask? Magic maybe? not at all, no magic here, i just Shoo Goo'd the lexan piece and stuck it on the window in the appropriate location.
now for the wireing. as you can see, i used two 7.2 type battery ends, one male, one female, to run the wireing between the BS and the motors kill switch conections. i installed one end on the BS before i Shoo Good it to make it watertight as seen above, in the same location Jeckler did.
i took the other connecter, slide the open wired ends thru the rubber boots, and soldered them to the kill swith leads and covered it back up with the stock clear boots. very easy and clean this way. then ran that out the back of the motor shroud, and thru the center cage and zip tied it to the center cage.
the RX lead from the BS to the RX runs under the cage, and thru the front white rubber cap on the radio box, directly to the 3rd channel plug in, which is right below the same cap (see additional pics below). you just simply remove the cap, and unplug, or plug in as the case may be, the servo lead from the BS and the roll cage can be fully seperated from the buggy and the wireing, simply by unplugging it.
this is gonna help for future air filter maintenance as well as trouble shooting the motor, as you can just unplug the connector between the BS and the stock kill switch, and fire the motor up if need be. or to eliminate the BS as a source of the problem ect.... Also, when removing the cage, the BS' kill switch wires can be unplugged so it goes with the front cage.
Then I Temp installed the front half of the roll cage (uses Modifiers Roll Cage Mod. Bonus) and found a good position to mount the BS, keeping in mind the ability to see the light on the bottom of the PCB thru the Shoo Goo, Lexan, more Shoo Goo, and red lexan windshield. i knew i had to make a hole to see it thru and just had to line up the light with the hole i made using my body reamer.
so this is how that turned out.
so heres how it looks on a close up. Wax on.
close up, Wax off.
thats pretty much it. once Wingnut gets here Tue after work, we will check the radio signal loss from out of range issues on the BS and see how it goes. heres a few more pics
and FYI< this unit should work on ANY 3 channel readio system, though i recommend using a 2.4 ssytem as it will be less prone to interferance, thus repeated and annoyingly contineously stripping the kill switch.
