Better brakes?

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Hotelcalif

Hotelcalif

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Knoxville, Tn
What can I do to get some decent brakes without spending $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ ? I have cable fronts, stock rears, and a 985MG servo.
The specs on this servo are:

Transit time: 0.16 sec/ 60 deg. @ 4.8V (0.13 sec/deg @ 6V)
Torque: 9.6kg/cm (133 oz/in) @ 4.8V (172 oz/in @ 6V)
Weight: 62g (2.18 oz)
Length: 40mm (1.57")
Width: 20mm (0.78")
Height: 37mm (1.45")
 
you could try scuffing the brake discs up a bit. I have found with the discs they take a bit to bite. I just added rear discs to my semi, exact same kit as on the front and the fronts being used now bite better than the rears. I know with the 1/5 bike I had to sand the brake disc to make it useable. and being advocate, just make sure the cable lines have free travel with no bends
 
Use the roughest sandpaper and scuff up the metal brake disks. Scuff up lightly or clean the fiberglass ones too.
You can try installing grub screws in the tow holes on the front of the gear plate casing - The two holes behind the spur gear. This will allow you to adjust the front metal brake pad closer toward the brake disk and help in faster braking.

The others will cost more:

New servo w/ as high a torque you can.
Alloy servo plate.
Separate servo just for fronts.
 
add more supports. you have to drill the chassis and countersink but it makes a big difference. the on road has 4 point mounting, the offroads 3. I stayed 3 and added a carbon tray. and I just cut the plastic stand offs off the plastic tray. my semi a made stand offs with this stuff I got for making crawler links for my super project. 1/2 thick.. or make a new tray yourself..
 
alloy radio tray, digitl hi torque servo and upgrade the rear the 8449


Mecatech hydro brakes seam to be cheaper then fg tunning cable brakes
 
brake upgrade

My epoxy brake disc was near the end of his Latin.
Now I saw some beautiful marketplace laser cut stainless steel disk for sale. But without pads.
Suddenly a new idea to born.
The most clutchs use Teflon for friction in the cluth.
Why not for braking, I thought!
So I get myself a piece of Teflon and make pads for my own, machined, sawn and drilled.
Here is the pictures of the old and the new brake.

IMG_1492.webp

IMG_1493.webp

IMG_1495.webp

IMG_1496.webp

The brake is 100% better than the standard brake.
And that for just $6.50
A good servo and servo aluminum plate is also something better.
 
I have it from my employer.
Because it is so small, it is difficult to edit that Teflon.
You should really have a milling machine.
 
parts

FG7474 alloy gear plate 37,80 euro
FG7040/1 brake holder rear 19,60 euro (system with one large disk)

You can buy this from www.pitstop-shop.nl
Shipping to all over the world,,,,, no problem at all!
Good shop.

On the site,,,,, they use a older picture from the alloy gearplate.
Mine comes also from this shop.
 
heres what i ended up with on the quest for better brakes on my fg mt

100_1147.webp


100_1148.webp

i still have a new spare master cylinder for splitting up the brakes into seperate front an rear, but this works will with the new fg viscose diff
 
Since you have a MT braking is bit hard for it. When I had one I had 4 cable discs on it.

A few questions:
You have front cables, which ones? Regular or tunning.
The servo you mention, is that only for the front brakes?
Do you have a alloy gear carrier?
You rear brakes, do you have 1 or 2 discs on the layshaft.

Take a few close up pics if you can with so we can see how your set up looks.
 
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