bolt on reed engine build

[Throttle Switch]

Today i decided to finally try to port my motor for bolt on reeds. i used T.S. reed case base gasket for a stencil for the two ports

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u142/sandblz/20150411_112134.jpg



Then it was off to the mill to machine the ports.








on the cylinder head i used a digital protractor. i set it to 20 degrees in the vise measuring off of the base. then i took a 3/4 dove tail mill and cut the top port matching the height of my other transfer ports.



i then put windows into my piston. i installed the piston and etched my window to know were to put the window.

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u142/sandblz/20150411_152904.jpg

i tried to hold the piston in the vise and was unsuccessful and through it across the room luckily this is an old motor witch was perfect for the experiment. i had another piston but this time i did it by hand i miss measured so i had to make the windows bigger and the bridge smaller sense the weren't centered. was a bone head mistake i didn't have the cylinder head lined up one time so i corrected it and accidentally chose the wrong lines. although good new is that means the pistons lighter :dots:

Next cleaned up the ports and matched the case and cylinder.





Then i assembled the motor and took her out for a spin. i need more fuel high fuel screw is all the way out and could still use more fuel. next on my list is the pop off tester to lower the psi for the valve. ordered a radiator pressure tester for under $20 on ebay will be here next week. but from the little that i did run it seems to have better power band and idles way nicer than it did before.





Note: this cylinder was on its last leg when i took it apart it is a kingmotor 30.5cc witch is what i have been using to experiment with porting i know the plating is crap but i don't want to wast money learning what works and doesn't. the squish band i set to .020. opened up the ports and widened the exhaust port.

if anyone has some knowledge to share on porting or engine modifying im all ears.

hpibajaforums.com banned this post for building a kingmotor engine so had to find a new forum.

 

[nitrocat]

When you milled the case you lost crank case pressure did your cork the crank pin to get some of it back
You did not show the crank does it have hollow pin ? If so cork both ends and take shalack and paint the cork ends that are exposed

 

[Throttle Switch]

When you milled the case you lost crank case pressure did your cork the crank pin to get some of it back
You did not show the crank does it have hollow pin ? If so cork both ends and take shalack and paint the cork ends that are exposed

it has a solid pin but it not a stuffed crank my next motor will have a stuffed crank. im surprised the motor still runs the cylinder has flaking and scoring of the cylinder wall.

my transfer timing is 115 was thinking of raising it to 120 on the next engine. exhaust duration is 170.

any thoughts on that?

 

[nitrocat]

The timing is not what's important on transfer ports it scavenging that makes it quick
You want to increase velocity to direct fuel to the exhaust port
To clear out burnt fuel

 

[Throttle Switch]

The timing is not what's important on transfer ports it scavenging that makes it quick
You want to increase velocity to direct fuel to the exhaust port
To clear out burnt fuel

so should i add epoxy in the top of the transfers to create a ramp to help force the charge up?

 

[nitrocat]

Kind of like a funnel with the small end twards the back side of the combustion chamber to push fresh fuel to the back cylinder wall and swirl up to spark plug and out exhaust port

 

[Throttle Switch]

Kind of like a funnel with the small end twards the back side of the combustion chamber to push fresh fuel to the back cylinder wall and swirl up to spark plug and out exhaust port

thank you ill give that a shot next time.