cable brakes...

[wezg]

There has been a few questions and problems recently with cable brakes and I have begun to winder how you all set up your cable brakes to get the best out of them...?

To balance mine I wrapped string around the tires and hung weights from them and adjusted them so they both gripped at the same time so in theory they start gripping together and hopefully pull equal all the way..in practice its a different story and I ended up adjusting them by eye and a lot of stopping ..lol

I ended up using mountain bike cables and making up ends to suit my calipers.

What other tips and tricks are out there?:lol::lol::lol::lol:

 

[atom3624]

I read that comment you made and am interested with the m/bike cable.
Is it flexible enough to not give any problems with the trucks turning, etc?

Personally, I simply remove the wheels, have the truck raised, no power, and close in the pads as close as I can without binding.
Then I power up, and get the 'zero point' so it's just catching - won't notice it with a 18Kg MT.
Then I check how the pads are holding - should be close.

I'm interested in the thicker cables, but have my doubts to their flexibility.
Al.

 

[atom3624]

As I've mentioned somewhere else, I'm not amazed with the fronts, and have noticed it's simply the power of the servo.
With the bulk of the MT, even the Savox 1256TG isn't that good, but I found one that SHOULD BE.
Doesn't appear to be known over here as everyone's going 'high voltage' but the Savox 1230MG is a BEAST!!
417 oz in at 4.8V, 500 oz in at 6.0V. Using the 20Kg cm (277 oz in) 1256TG as a base, that's about 36Kg cm!!

It'll need to clear customs for it's value coming from USA, but I should have it installed within 2 weeks.

The 1256TG is fine on the 1:5 on-road as there's nowhere near as much traction.
Al.

 

[atom3624]

Slight maths problem!!
32Kg cm for the Savox 1230 at 6.0V.
Still pretty amazing!!
Al.

 

[wezg]

not had any problems with mine since they have been installed..
I cut a cable down into the required lengths then fitted up a steel collar with grub screw to grip the cable...decided to solder it too..so its secure.

I machined up a couple of alloy collars to fit them into the cable guide holders and used a few bits of heat shrink to help stop them kinking.(so far so good)

I think they are working better than the original cables as the steel cable is more rigid it is also pushed by the servos so the brakes release better..

 

[wezg]

that sounds like it should stop a lot better with that amount of power...

my cables are routed as smoothly and as long is is possible..
I have thought about making up some other form of lever so It is almost a straight pull...which will be even better.

 

[atom3624]

The straight pull on the rears seems better, but that can be exaggerated by the weight transfer to the front during braking.

Never liked the kinked front pull bar - can see it straightening when I apply force - when the new servo comes it'll probably straighten the bar out!!!

I'll then look at your alternative cable idea. Trying to stay away from hydros for now - bad experience with the KPD's, but part of that was my ham-fistedness I reckon. Forever leaking and bleeding them, particularly after a grip roll .... !!
Al.