fastlane
Well-Known Member
Is there a diff that we can use for the rampage? A true diff.
center diff
- Thread starter fastlane
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VancouverHobbies
Well-Known Member
No it's not a "true diff" it a locker, gives equal power to both front and back.
VancouverHobbies
Well-Known Member
sorry read your post wrong..duhh
i hope so as when i assembled my upgrade kit i was switching/mixing both diff internals.. and looking at the V1 cups right now seem to be equal in size
what motor are you running that you are having problems??.. ive got a gp29 cc on mine for the first time tonight and didnt have any problems, just one damn dogbone pin that doesn't like its home.. ive been through 7 drill bits already
what motor are you running that you are having problems??.. ive got a gp29 cc on mine for the first time tonight and didnt have any problems, just one damn dogbone pin that doesn't like its home.. ive been through 7 drill bits already
DemonRC1
Senior Member
I just eyeballed some measurements and it looks like the front/rear diff width is about 95mm and the center spool is about 90mm. The 5mm extra width wouldn't be bad considering the dogbones have alot of play in them and need to be centered. I think 5mm would actually make them fit better.
Another thing I noticed is that the center gear mount has the bearing facing inwards. This would cause a problem. It "looks" like if you flip the mounts around where they face outward that a diff might fit in there. That leads to another problem. Since the bearings aren't locked into place what will keep the diff from moving back and forth and cause meshing issues. Another issue would be that the center spool's main gear is somewhat centered compared to the diff bevel gear's offset. This would mean that if you did get a real diff mounted in there it would have to be moved toward the rear of the car around 10mm or so which would cause the rear dogbone to be too long and the front dogbone to be too short.
I've thought about this and one solution would be to use a Smartech/Nutech transmission with a FG upgraded alloy viscous diff. The FG diffs are the same width as the Rampage diff so we could still use our dogbones. Basically we would have to replace our engine mounts and transmission for a transmission from a Thunderbolt/Titan/Hurricane C5. I took a quick look at the prices and the cost would be just over $200. Most of that cost is in the upgraded FG diff. It will work if you can get the holes drilled into the chassis where everything is all lined up. The FG diffs have a smaller inner diameter on the cups so you would need to do some modification to the dogbones. You would need to knock the pins out of the dogbones and grind down the end of the dogbone where it comes into the FG diff. Then, shorten up the pins and knock em back in.
Using the Smartech/Nutech tranny would have two MAJOR advantages. The first would obviously be that we would have a real center diff. Second, the brake setup allows for front/rear braking bias like the 1/8 buggies have. Lastly, the layshaft from the spur gear to the center diff is a solid rod whereas we have that stupid coupler that always wobbles after a period of time.
I have an FG 4x4 conversion kit coming tommorrow. When I get a FG diff together I'll lay it in there and take some better measurements. I might go ahead and order the stock Titan tranny mounts with the layshaft and actually start prefitting to see how it will work. The plastic parts are really cheap so if it doesn't work out it'll be no big loss. I'm guessing $50 tops to figure it all out.
Another thing I noticed is that the center gear mount has the bearing facing inwards. This would cause a problem. It "looks" like if you flip the mounts around where they face outward that a diff might fit in there. That leads to another problem. Since the bearings aren't locked into place what will keep the diff from moving back and forth and cause meshing issues. Another issue would be that the center spool's main gear is somewhat centered compared to the diff bevel gear's offset. This would mean that if you did get a real diff mounted in there it would have to be moved toward the rear of the car around 10mm or so which would cause the rear dogbone to be too long and the front dogbone to be too short.
I've thought about this and one solution would be to use a Smartech/Nutech transmission with a FG upgraded alloy viscous diff. The FG diffs are the same width as the Rampage diff so we could still use our dogbones. Basically we would have to replace our engine mounts and transmission for a transmission from a Thunderbolt/Titan/Hurricane C5. I took a quick look at the prices and the cost would be just over $200. Most of that cost is in the upgraded FG diff. It will work if you can get the holes drilled into the chassis where everything is all lined up. The FG diffs have a smaller inner diameter on the cups so you would need to do some modification to the dogbones. You would need to knock the pins out of the dogbones and grind down the end of the dogbone where it comes into the FG diff. Then, shorten up the pins and knock em back in.
Using the Smartech/Nutech tranny would have two MAJOR advantages. The first would obviously be that we would have a real center diff. Second, the brake setup allows for front/rear braking bias like the 1/8 buggies have. Lastly, the layshaft from the spur gear to the center diff is a solid rod whereas we have that stupid coupler that always wobbles after a period of time.
I have an FG 4x4 conversion kit coming tommorrow. When I get a FG diff together I'll lay it in there and take some better measurements. I might go ahead and order the stock Titan tranny mounts with the layshaft and actually start prefitting to see how it will work. The plastic parts are really cheap so if it doesn't work out it'll be no big loss. I'm guessing $50 tops to figure it all out.
Last edited by a moderator:
DemonRC1
Senior Member
Here's some pics of the Nutech tranny setup:
Their alloy engine/tranny mounts might have a tighter bearing fit to reduce slop:
Their alloy engine/tranny mounts might have a tighter bearing fit to reduce slop:
DemonRC1
Senior Member
The bad news is I pulled my FG diff out and did a check fit. The measurement I took on the FG diff was 97.75mm from diff cup to diff cup. I think it's gonna be 1-2mm too long.
Last edited by a moderator: