twissted
Well-Known Member
I'm looking at the TP5850 6D motor. I think that it will be something that I would like to try.
Chapinb's build
- Thread starter chapinb
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- Thread starter
- #22
Little update. I was never able to really get the temps under control with the TP motor, even with a fan. Even geared 12/44, it would heat up way above reasonable. Eventually it threw a magnet that I suspect was loose form the get-go. Its been replaced with a Leopard that runs nice and cool.
The Toro also blew something. Nothing fried from what I could see, no magic smoke. I think it was a poor connection between the esc and RX. Its been sent back to China for inspection, and hopefully a replacement. A XL2 has replaced it, very happy thus far with the ESC.
Its now a XSC-e with the addition of the Grafil Super5 body and XSC body posts/bumpers.
Messy messy rig, but here it sits currently.
The Toro also blew something. Nothing fried from what I could see, no magic smoke. I think it was a poor connection between the esc and RX. Its been sent back to China for inspection, and hopefully a replacement. A XL2 has replaced it, very happy thus far with the ESC.
Its now a XSC-e with the addition of the Grafil Super5 body and XSC body posts/bumpers.
Messy messy rig, but here it sits currently.
cordy
Well-Known Member
Looks fine,good job.
- Thread starter
- #24
Small update on a few things. I got my Toro 200a esc back, after 6 months. They refurbished by old esc. Bench tested and its working, no field testing as the cat has been put up for the winter. I think Im going to stick with my castle anyway and save the Toro for another project down the road.
SkyRc has not replied to my inquiries as to what actually happened.
If anyone else would like to do a warranty claim, let me know and Ill PM you the contact I have been using.
The grafil body is tough as nails. Has had many roof top landings, and it not showing any stress cracks, just some scuff marks. The body has a few pounds of additional reinforcing I added too though.
My winter project? Tires and a tamed down 8s setup.
SkyRc has not replied to my inquiries as to what actually happened.
If anyone else would like to do a warranty claim, let me know and Ill PM you the contact I have been using.
The grafil body is tough as nails. Has had many roof top landings, and it not showing any stress cracks, just some scuff marks. The body has a few pounds of additional reinforcing I added too though.
My winter project? Tires and a tamed down 8s setup.
grafildave
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Very good to hear this,friend!!chapinb said:
If you have other pics or video,we will appreciate too much if you can post here ok???
Enjoy the body!!!
- Thread starter
- #26
Bunch of goodies on the way! Arrived today was King Motor pioneers - Trencher knock offs.
I went with the clones because they are narrower then the prolines. I wanted everything to tuck up under the SC body as much as possible. They were also cheaper to boot. Ill see how they handle come spring. I do not have adapters yet, as i wanted to see how they fit first. Here is a sneak peak in the meantime!
The body needed to be raised about an inch.
The t-bone bumper fits, but will need some trimming.
rear, stock, front.
The rears still stick out some. Ill have to see when the 7075 adapters are on, but I think I may need some negative offset rims. HPI I think makes some.
I went with the clones because they are narrower then the prolines. I wanted everything to tuck up under the SC body as much as possible. They were also cheaper to boot. Ill see how they handle come spring. I do not have adapters yet, as i wanted to see how they fit first. Here is a sneak peak in the meantime!
The body needed to be raised about an inch.
The t-bone bumper fits, but will need some trimming.
rear, stock, front.
The rears still stick out some. Ill have to see when the 7075 adapters are on, but I think I may need some negative offset rims. HPI I think makes some.
G
Guest
Guest
The RAMTech adapters will push the wheels out about 1/2 inch.
The truck looks great with the bigger wheels, BTW!
The truck looks great with the bigger wheels, BTW!
- Thread starter
- #28
First bash with the new tires and 8s! Its a cold sunny day, about 30F so no surprise I broke some plastics.
Ran with Zippy 4s 8000mah, 30c. These are a little underpowered. Warmed up a bit more than Id like, but gave me plenty of grunt for about 25 min. I have some 7200 40-80c too, but wanted to see how the cheaper packs held up.
Battery temp 75F
Motor hovered around 80F geared 10/48. Again with 7.5 inch tires! We will see how temps progress in the spring.
ESC - TBA. Truck is still drying before I bring it in the house for datalogging.
This was a hard, hard bash run. Many tumbles, 5' air jumps and high speed drifts around the dry roads.
Tires held up great. I did a similar with with the stock tires, and wore 1/2 the tread off. These have barley rounded corners right now.
Tires do not rub AT ALL. I am very surprised. Even if it does look a little disproportional.
Now for the carnage!
Rear bumper shattered
Ran with Zippy 4s 8000mah, 30c. These are a little underpowered. Warmed up a bit more than Id like, but gave me plenty of grunt for about 25 min. I have some 7200 40-80c too, but wanted to see how the cheaper packs held up.
Battery temp 75F
Motor hovered around 80F geared 10/48. Again with 7.5 inch tires! We will see how temps progress in the spring.
ESC - TBA. Truck is still drying before I bring it in the house for datalogging.
This was a hard, hard bash run. Many tumbles, 5' air jumps and high speed drifts around the dry roads.
Tires held up great. I did a similar with with the stock tires, and wore 1/2 the tread off. These have barley rounded corners right now.
Tires do not rub AT ALL. I am very surprised. Even if it does look a little disproportional.
Now for the carnage!
Rear bumper shattered
- Thread starter
- #29
3 cracks/chips in the body. None of these areas were reinforced. Little shoe goo will take care of this quickly.
I have a t-bone bumper under the regular redcat. The t-bone broke during the nose down landing from 4-5' up.
And finally, the injury that did me in. A grub screw came out of the front right cvd, causing the pin to move and lock up the wheel. this joint was locktited and had heatshrink over the pin. The joint has also become very worn... Time for a replacment. Anyone have much experiance with FLM cvd kit? Are this the correct ones for the front? ERF CVD kit XB
With the taller tires, I now have more down travel. The shocks have become too progressive. Some Phatcat (now DGI I think?) towers are on my bench waiting for install for a more linear feel.
I have a t-bone bumper under the regular redcat. The t-bone broke during the nose down landing from 4-5' up.
And finally, the injury that did me in. A grub screw came out of the front right cvd, causing the pin to move and lock up the wheel. this joint was locktited and had heatshrink over the pin. The joint has also become very worn... Time for a replacment. Anyone have much experiance with FLM cvd kit? Are this the correct ones for the front? ERF CVD kit XB
With the taller tires, I now have more down travel. The shocks have become too progressive. Some Phatcat (now DGI I think?) towers are on my bench waiting for install for a more linear feel.
G
Guest
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I think the larger tires look tough.
claude bigelow
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Welcome!!! To the Redcat Family.
phreerider
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nice set up, trenchers really adds mass , the fronts do the body justice for sure
- Thread starter
- #35
Iv been away for a awhile between saving for a house and with the birth of our fist child. I got sick of looking at that large hunk of rampage paperweight, and started tinkering over the winter. Fixing issues that annoyed me. First was replacing the motor.A leopard 5692 1090kv was running warmer than Id like. With a 12 pinion, 48 spur and trenchers, I was warm. Not bad, 175~ degrees, up to about 200 but I wanted cooler. Part of the issue may have been that the motor started as a vented can, recommended for boats. I sealed up the Vents. Probably my fault for getting the wrong can, but it was what was available at the time.
Replaced it with a sealed 5692 leopard 730kv and geared up a touch. Not sure if I had a bum 1090 motor, but the 730kv is significantly cooler. Temps were 125-150 degrees when geared for the same 45~mph. It seemed to cog more, even with timing pulled however.
Next up was the front cvd's continually loosing pins. I tried using dog bones in the front but it severely limited the turning radius. Back to CVD's. On the recommendation from the forum, I made a 2nd flat spot on the pin, and used 2 grub screws. Both got red locktite. A thin layer of shoe goo around the outside of the CV axles. A layer of heat shrink tubing around that to seal the deal. So far, no issues or loose pins.
I really hated the looseness of the front end, even running the 7075 front bearing carriers. Most of the play was in the ball ends and the c-hubs. The premade ones (DGI, ect) were either not available, too expensive or rub on the front diffs. I tried Baja ones, poor fit all around. The 5ive ball ends, however, fit decent. The threaded rod fits fine. The ball ends themselves are slightly bigger. and left some play between the end and the bolt. A 5mm OD, 3mm ID steel rod fits nicely with some light milling to take up the slack. The 5ive ends are larger than stock do not fit into the steering assembly. The balls had to be milled down a few mm to fit. Its a soft metal and easy to grind down. If you notice, there is very little room to add additional negative camber. About -2 is all you can get due to the rod ends.
I had alot of play in the plastic c-hubs. I went with the redcat aluminum hubs. Good product that removed much of the play. The bolts that hold the axle carriers in however are a tick too long, requiring a spacer or shorter bolt.
My last big issue was a twitchy servo that pulled right on acceleration. I did what I could to remove radio interferance and isolate the servo. No luck. Time for a new radio! The flysky it4s was my choice. Most of the twitch went away. After adding the new motor, the rest of the interference went away. Again, makes me think the 1090kv motor was defective somehow.
More bashing to come...
Replaced it with a sealed 5692 leopard 730kv and geared up a touch. Not sure if I had a bum 1090 motor, but the 730kv is significantly cooler. Temps were 125-150 degrees when geared for the same 45~mph. It seemed to cog more, even with timing pulled however.
Next up was the front cvd's continually loosing pins. I tried using dog bones in the front but it severely limited the turning radius. Back to CVD's. On the recommendation from the forum, I made a 2nd flat spot on the pin, and used 2 grub screws. Both got red locktite. A thin layer of shoe goo around the outside of the CV axles. A layer of heat shrink tubing around that to seal the deal. So far, no issues or loose pins.
I really hated the looseness of the front end, even running the 7075 front bearing carriers. Most of the play was in the ball ends and the c-hubs. The premade ones (DGI, ect) were either not available, too expensive or rub on the front diffs. I tried Baja ones, poor fit all around. The 5ive ball ends, however, fit decent. The threaded rod fits fine. The ball ends themselves are slightly bigger. and left some play between the end and the bolt. A 5mm OD, 3mm ID steel rod fits nicely with some light milling to take up the slack. The 5ive ends are larger than stock do not fit into the steering assembly. The balls had to be milled down a few mm to fit. Its a soft metal and easy to grind down. If you notice, there is very little room to add additional negative camber. About -2 is all you can get due to the rod ends.
I had alot of play in the plastic c-hubs. I went with the redcat aluminum hubs. Good product that removed much of the play. The bolts that hold the axle carriers in however are a tick too long, requiring a spacer or shorter bolt.
My last big issue was a twitchy servo that pulled right on acceleration. I did what I could to remove radio interferance and isolate the servo. No luck. Time for a new radio! The flysky it4s was my choice. Most of the twitch went away. After adding the new motor, the rest of the interference went away. Again, makes me think the 1090kv motor was defective somehow.
More bashing to come...
- Thread starter
- #36
As much as I enjoyed the new 730kv motor, it had a terminal failure.
I have never seen or heard of this happening, but I suppose its one more thing to locktite now. The motor kept running, but acted like a diff had blown, wouldnt roll. Heres the damage to the rotor. Never shorted, thank god.
Internals look fine, but Im not going to risk running that rotor. In an effort to try something new, I ordered the kershaw mount and a leopard 5898 910kv. Will see how the larger can holds up.
Side note, Im annoyed with photobucket and need a new hosting site for both droid and desktop. Suggestions?
I have never seen or heard of this happening, but I suppose its one more thing to locktite now. The motor kept running, but acted like a diff had blown, wouldnt roll. Heres the damage to the rotor. Never shorted, thank god.
Internals look fine, but Im not going to risk running that rotor. In an effort to try something new, I ordered the kershaw mount and a leopard 5898 910kv. Will see how the larger can holds up.
Side note, Im annoyed with photobucket and need a new hosting site for both droid and desktop. Suggestions?
Last edited by a moderator:
- Thread starter
- #37
Kershaw mount and new motor went in. Will run tomorrow once locktit set up. First impressions arnt great on the mount. Directions are poor. Aluminum if soft, although should be strong enough. Fit wasn't great, but not horrible. Holes didn't line up well, some dremel work needed, ect. While the 5898 can fit with some room in all directions, you cannot fit less then a 14 tooth pinion with the 58mm can. Hardware is difficult to install. My spur didnt line up with the cut out in the chassis, but that is probably my fault, not kershaw. Motor screws are difficult to get at or adjust.... blah
On the bright side, it does allow the larger can and a front brace.
The finned leopards appear to be higher quality, at least on the outside. Longer shaft, fancier can , better wire exits and better wire insulation. Will see how running feels later.
On the bright side, it does allow the larger can and a front brace.
The finned leopards appear to be higher quality, at least on the outside. Longer shaft, fancier can , better wire exits and better wire insulation. Will see how running feels later.
- Thread starter
- #38
First run, and everything seems to be playing well together.
I am worried about the gearing however, a 14t pinion with the 41 spur is too tall for the trenchers. Top speed (70mph per online calc) is not obtainable on the street and motor temps were over 110f after only a few min. Temps would probably stay in check with a fan, but everything would benefit if I could gear down a few teeth.
With some spacers, the 7075 48 spur may fit. That will be a project for another day. Till then, I am fairly happy with the motor.
When comparing the old center shafts to new ones, I noticed there is a twist in the old ones. Is this normal? The new ones are lined up perfectly.
I am worried about the gearing however, a 14t pinion with the 41 spur is too tall for the trenchers. Top speed (70mph per online calc) is not obtainable on the street and motor temps were over 110f after only a few min. Temps would probably stay in check with a fan, but everything would benefit if I could gear down a few teeth.
With some spacers, the 7075 48 spur may fit. That will be a project for another day. Till then, I am fairly happy with the motor.
When comparing the old center shafts to new ones, I noticed there is a twist in the old ones. Is this normal? The new ones are lined up perfectly.
- Thread starter
- #39
If you move the front plastic chassis brace to the right side, it frees up some space for smaller pinions. With the 58mm can, the smallest you can go is a 11 tooth. With a 56mm can, a 10 or maybe a 9 would fit.
New holes had to be drilled.
Space left. Its a little closer then Id like and will probably move to a 12t pinion to widen that gap some.
Ran a few packs and all seems well, max temp was 135.
New holes had to be drilled.
Space left. Its a little closer then Id like and will probably move to a 12t pinion to widen that gap some.
Ran a few packs and all seems well, max temp was 135.
Finally stumbled on your thread! Nicely documented and cool you're reviving it again 
.
With the Kershaw front top-plate, I think you can get rid of the front brace - at least that's what I did.
How do you like the Redcat alu C-hubs? I am getting a bit annoyed with the stock ones not allowing for the CVDs/axles to be pulled out without disassembling everything, but the 7075RC C-hubs are out of stock, and their shipping to EU is 50 bucks... Can you get the CVDs/axles out with the Redcat alu C-hubs too without getting everything apart?
.With the Kershaw front top-plate, I think you can get rid of the front brace - at least that's what I did.
How do you like the Redcat alu C-hubs? I am getting a bit annoyed with the stock ones not allowing for the CVDs/axles to be pulled out without disassembling everything, but the 7075RC C-hubs are out of stock, and their shipping to EU is 50 bucks... Can you get the CVDs/axles out with the Redcat alu C-hubs too without getting everything apart?