Checklist for First Run!!!!

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That is what I need to find around here for sale nice and clean with mods. The only ones around here for sale are WELL USED better off with a new one . Start fresh.
 
Checklist for First Run!!!!


What do you mean by Place a short bit of fuel line tubing in each drive cup to center the dogbones at full extension? I just got the Rampage MT and the back left dogbone clicks (Quite Loudly) when you move the truck, is this what you are talking about to get it centered? Or something completely different? Just want to make sure it could be something else.
 
Billsky said:
What do you mean by Place a short bit of fuel line tubing in each drive cup to center the dogbones at full extension? I just got the Rampage MT and the back left dogbone clicks (Quite Loudly) when you move the truck, is this what you are talking about to get it centered? Or something completely different? Just want to make sure it could be something else.
Click to expand...
http://www.redcatrampageforum.com/showthread.php?t=1039
 
RampageHopUps said:
OK, lets start a thread to announce what needs to be checked before you run it the first time.
1) Check all the screws on the vehicle.


2) Oil the air filter. Better yet, get another air filter.


3) Charge the battery and cycle at least a few times.


4) Check to make sure the carb is fully opening. On high end radios you can set the endpoints.


5) Check the brakes are operating correctly.


6) Check your radio range.


7) Apply blue loctite to the wheel nuts. There are no serrations on the stock nuts. Or use HPI Baja nuts, or DarkSoul nuts.


8) Take the stinger off the stock muffler. Switch to a gutted can or another type of exhaust for more power.


9) Switch out the stock c-clip that holds the shock piston in place. Use a 3mm Heavy Duty clip from HPI or FastEddy.


10) Use blue loctite to secure the 3 bolts that hold the clutch housing on.


11) Check the fuel line tubing to make sure the return line is connected to the primer bulb location. Pull out that line and make sure its not the fuel filter line.


12) Make sure the stiffening ring is on the rim around the hex drive.


13) Check steering trims are set, so nothing hits at full turns.


14) Place a short bit of fuel line tubing in each drive cup to center the dogbones at full extension.
Click to expand...
Something I thought you might wanna add to this check list is to lok tite the 2 set screws on the brake hub. These backed out on my at about a gallon in causing the small pinion gear to not spin.
 
great list thank you I got my truck yesterday and the upgrades, carb, air filter, clutch springs, pipe and servos, should i install these now or break it in with the stock parts
 
I favor Honda pro-moly 60 grease on steel to steel gears- little dab wil do ya. Do not use this on plastic- rubber. Also paint a small amount on the drive cups- most moly greases contain vrey little moly- this brand is costly but contains 60% moly- so strong that Burlington Northern uses this in bulk to lube the door hinges on the ends of the train tunnels up on Stevens pass in Washington state- a employee told me this years ago. If this is used -or any grease for that matter on parts exposed to dust-dirt ect- the r-c s are right on the ground - little point in lubing. a dirt magnet.
 
On the drive cups i use Automotive fuel line hose- this fits snugly inside the drive cups. sort of a hassle getting a square cut with the razor knife- you still want a little play on the dog bones- trial and error fitment- but once its in and set up right -it stays in the cups.
 
9) Switch out the stock c-clip that holds the shock piston in place. Use a 3mm Heavy Duty clip from HPI or FastEddy.

12) Make sure the stiffening ring is on the rim around the hex drive.

I don't know what this is :confused: can ahyone help?
 
To all the new guys- With these mods every one has posted- the Redcats will go the distance- I flog the Xb across freshly cut football fields- let the car warm up and hold it wide open- drifting with GRP easy fronts on all 4 axles. After a few gallons of this constant wide open till it will not rev any higher usage, I pulled the top end- looks fine- put a fresh ring in it- shes good to go. I do have other engines on the bench, but I will keep on flogging this HY30.5 - no carbon on my engine!! lol. Gotta go to to the folks house for easter- there is a golf corse quality lawn a few blocks distant about the size of 30 football fields-- lol if the po-lice show- i will offer them the transmitter- works every time! in the early morning, its completly void of people -dogs with death wish! Happy easter to all-----
 
I'm curious about the V3 changes after reading the thread, air filter I think is one. What's the rest. And thanks about the ear plug tip, I can get plenty of those free at work.
 
I just got my MT a couple of days ago, and Ive noticed acouple of changes, I have plenty of pics under photos and videos. Check them out, specially all you MT Veterans. There is also a pic of the Break-in procedure.
 
New to the MT. I just ordered one and was trying to read up on what to go over before I run it. A lot of the links are expired, I get the fact that I need to check all bolts and screws. Which ones specifically need loctite? Also do the v3 32cc models still need the fuel tubing put in the drive cups? And what upgrades would you all currently recommend? Thanks in advance for your help, I am really excited to get into my first 1/5 scale truck.
 
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