Clutch woes

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funbob

Well-Known Member
Messages
56
Location
ABQ, NM
Okay, so a couple of weekends ago I was tearing it up at a popular off road spot when it just stopped in its tracks. Motor revved just fine but no power going to the wheels. I assumed it was the diff but when I got home and took things apart, turns out it was the OWB. So I got a new OWB and a vertigo diff locker while I was at it and got those installed last week. Finally had enough time today to get it reassembled the rest of the way, started it up and still no go :(

I triple checked the transmission after I installed the locker so I know there's no problem there, drive cups and shaft pins are fine, pinion bolt is fine, gears are fine, new OWB is installed in the correct orientation, everything I can think of to check looks to be in perfect order but it's still not moving.

The only thing I haven't looked at yet is the clutch, that's the only other place the problem could be. I'll be very disappointed if it crapped out with barely a gallon through it. What are my upgrade options while still keeping the 2 speed? Can I pick up any enclosed clutch carrier and use it? I still don't know for sure if it is in fact the clutch because I can't get the damn stock carrier off. One of the screws was done up inhumanely tight and I rounded out out the bolt trying to remove it. I'll probably end up having to grind into the carrier to get it off so I'll need a new one regardless.
 
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getcha a metal version of the old 3 point connection ccarrier like i did. and get the old one off any way you can, youll need to replace that bolt tho thats screwed up. and Dan does have the enclosed carriers. a new style and the old style, i have a old style but not installed yet. don't see the need to unless i have to yank that stuff apart again, wqhich then i will install it.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Billet-Clutch-Bell-Carrier-HPI-Baja-5b-SS-5T-/280649897123?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item41580994a3

this one is what i put on mine from Tulare.
 
if you cant get the bolt with vicegrips try dremmeling a slot in it for a flathead. That OWB IS infact servicable. If you pop off the shield with a xacto knife blade you'll see all the pawls and springs. make sure everything is in order and give it a good cleaning with denatured alcohol. Do not lube it. Make sure the two pins on the shaft are in good order. (the ones the OWB hub slips over). I don't see the clutch just stopping completely and suddenly like that. But, anything is possible. When you are giving it gas and its not going have you looked to see whats turning? is the clutch bell spinning? the gears? where does the motion stop? if the bells not spinning, then yes, something in the clutch is gone.
 
Mine already came with a metal 3 point carrier. I'm looking to go totally enclosed for the carrier and the clutch bell. I see Dan has an enclosed carrier, not sure on the clutch bell though. I'm pretty close to saying screw it and just getting a TR setup and going single speed.

I'm not sure if it's a good or bad thing when my dremel seems to be the most useful tool for servicing this thing sometimes :)

I hacked off the old carrier to reveal the clutch.
5608964626_eaf720f5e4_b.jpg

Now, I'm no expert in baja clutch shoes owing to this being my first 5th scale and all, but that doesn't look good at all to me. Looks like one shoe is completely gone and the other isn't too far behind.

5608382727_642f260ded_b.jpg

5608382287_36a109eaaf_b.jpg

Inside of the clutch bell. Looks okay to me.

5608382487_2138463bb9_b.jpg

I'm trying to have fun but I'm really bummed so far with all the bugs I seem to be experiencing. Would think a clutch would make it more than a few tanks.
 
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Hi Funbob, Just letting you know i had the same problem with the clutch shoes mine lasted half a tank, i have a km 3.0 .30.5 it was brand new at the time and the problem was something was binding which makes the clutch work extra hard and causes it to wear out very quick, when you replace the clutch and bell carrier and put it together push the car on the floor and make sure it rolls freely and nothing binds
If it rolls freely you shouldnt have a problem with the clutch ! this is how i solved my clutch problem... hope this helps your clutch woes pls let me know how you go regards Troy
 
this doesn't look any worse than the ones i replaced and it still moved fine? Swap them backwards, they'll hook.
 
New clutch and enclosed carrier are on the way. Need to stop by Ace on the way home and get an appropriately sized bolt for a piston stopper because there's no way I'm paying $10 for the same thing.

I really hope this does the trick because I'm out of ideas. I've checked everything from the clutch to the wheel hexes and everything in between and can't find anything wrong other than the clutch looking pretty worn and the inside of the bell being smoother than what I would expect. The wheels would move a little bit with it off the ground but it wouldn't move on the ground or only creep forward a little bit if I really got on the throttle. I can turn the layshaft by hand and the wheels rotate fine so there's no problem from there through the transmission to the wheels. With the locker installed, there's no diff to fail on me now and the drive and idle gears still looked brand new when I had it apart. Gave it a good cleaning, added fresh grease and cleaned and repacked the bearings for good measure while I was in there. I can turn the clutch by hand through a full rotation cycle so there's no problem there.

I run the shoes backwards in my nitros with good results. They hook better with decreased slippage and wear so I'm going to do the same thing here. Going to roughen up the inside of the bell as well.

Maybe someday I'll get to run this thing again :)
 
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