collllddd!!! day running rc's hehe

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looking good mucker but its a pity that you didnt have the bod on for the vid well maybes next time just a little tip im not to sure it will work as im not to sure if the drive shafts are long enough but you might be able to drill a hole in the end wear the nut goes on for the wheel an put a split pin threw it cheap fix and it should work then you wont have to worry about the wheels coming off
 
hey sick boy lol. we found out that he left the nut on the desk at home we were checking out to see if fg brakes would fit on a rally. good thing we had a spare nut in his parts box. once this order arrives from ddm we should have th e vw up and going >: )

(OH BUY THE WAY GUY'S THESE AREN'T MY RIDES THIS IS BARRY'S RIDES (PIPIOUS) I WAS JUST THE CAMERA MAN
 
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Ya, first wheel falling off was because I had the wheel off to see if fg knuckles would fit. I knew that #2 wheel problem was inevitable. When I stripped the car to get things loktited etc, I found all the screws into plastic had been over tightened... I worked on it last night and the upper crew had allready started backing out that side too. I shoe goo'd the screw in (lost the otiginal out there and didn't realize until last night)

I now wait for Himoto to reply on the alloy parts to fix it

new pipe on the semi and new engine pipe in rally. I had the body off to get at the tuning of rally and was going to try and adjust my 2 speed to work on semi... before I could get the semi 2 speed worked on the layshaft gear came loose (used blue, not red loktite, and I might have forgotten to flatten the setscrew with files). semi will be back running in a few minutes.

I bought a brushless slash before we went out so charged it up and tried it last night, and now doing some tweaking to it.. (He glued a shock cap on and I can't get it off Rich... trying to refil it from the bottom a drop at a time.... time to find some 8th scale shocks now)
 
Super glue works best on the screw threads for going into plastic.....
Lock-tite is for any thing metal....lowest strength blue..going tothe stronger lock-tite
Red...next Purple..last being the strongest..Green......As for me I use Red on my Rc car
use a mini propane pen torch to heat up the parts to melt the lock-tite.......
Some times a hot soldering gun on a screw or bolt head will work......
I even lock-tite the nylon wheel nuts....(just me) ...I safty wire the engine exhaust bolts
I have yet to have any screws or bolts to come loose after doing this......................
All this is just my opinions...Slawhammer
 
Yup you got that right Roger. I am the king of shoe goo though lol. I go through mass tubes... the side I glued held. I do have ca gel if it loosens up, but like I said, I will get alloy ones and be done with it. I could just order new ones. I see though there is not a lot of plastic to thread into because of how wide the cvd end is. I was considering dremmeling the inside and either mounting a nut or putting an fg droop screw (long allen bolt setscrew) in but I think just get the alloy ones.

and I am sure you will impose more wisdom on me I have forgotten to address hehe. never offended. I need to buy some new drill bits to do the header bolts. broke all my small titanium nitride bits.
 
As to exhaust bolts..I use new drilled cap bolts every time I take off the exhaust ..But
now with just using a header pipe....cut off from the exhaust pipe...I then use new exhaust gasket..then header pipe...attached by the drilled cap bolts..then silacon short
coupler..then the exhaust pipe.....Nice advantage of a header is you do not have to remove it all the time....Only if you have a bad cylinder....(this is just me).....
Again this only my opinions.....Slawhammer
 
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I agree. I bought a bag of header bolts. one piece pipes are nice but I prefer the header myself. a couple zap straps and a spring and it's off. couplers are a dime a dozen at the auto shop
 
oh yeah headers are awesome. my nitro lets you take the pipe off easy and put it back on just as easily
 
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