Could it be a Raim Air Effect?

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behere

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OK, here's what I seem to be going thru right now. I have both a Sportline and an FG Baja. My Baja runs great and consistent but my SL seems to go thru some issues when Im trying to tune. The only thing I can come up with is the fact that the carb in on the back on the baja where as the one on the SL is pointing straigh up, therefore sucking in air as it picks up speed. The Baja is good for about 70 and the SL is good for somwhere in the high 70 MPH range. Maybe the fact that it has air being pushed in at that speed is causing it to run lean? Whats your opinions? :helpsmilie:
 
!!??

The Baja is good for about 70 and the SL is good for somwhere in the high 70 MPH

ok your comment above there,i never heard of a baja good for 70mph... maybe 45.(all depending on engine and gearing)

maybe your running too lean,if you think the engine is getting too much air then you must richen your high and low speed needles to make up for the extra air.

more air more fuel required.

try it sure cant hurt.
 
OK, here's what I seem to be going thru right now. I have both a Sportline and an FG Baja. My Baja runs great and consistent but my SL seems to go thru some issues when Im trying to tune. The only thing I can come up with is the fact that the carb in on the back on the baja where as the one on the SL is pointing straigh up, therefore sucking in air as it picks up speed. The Baja is good for about 70 and the SL is good for somwhere in the high 70 MPH range. Maybe the fact that it has air being pushed in at that speed is causing it to run lean? Whats your opinions? :helpsmilie:

Any videos?
 
OK, here's what I seem to be going thru right now. I have both a Sportline and an FG Baja. My Baja runs great and consistent but my SL seems to go thru some issues when Im trying to tune. The only thing I can come up with is the fact that the carb in on the back on the baja where as the one on the SL is pointing straigh up, therefore sucking in air as it picks up speed. The Baja is good for about 70 and the SL is good for somwhere in the high 70 MPH range. Maybe the fact that it has air being pushed in at that speed is causing it to run lean? Whats your opinions? :helpsmilie:

Not sure you explained what its doing?:helpsmilie:
 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sg1no74akuo
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DCb8fbINEjs
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nfm8fVci_U8

My bad, I guess a claim is worthless with out proof. The 80MPH one isnt mines. Thats a buddy of ours. We all run similar set ups with little differences. Mines set up for high 60s to low 70s. Anyways, the Baja isnt the problem. Its the SL. It seems that I cant get the tunning right on it. Its either too lean or too rich. The question Im asking is that if fact that the filter is sticking straight up in the air can cause it to force air straight into the carb while at high speeds which would cause it to run lean? The Baja and the SL have very similar set ups but the Baja has the car pointing back which wouldnt have this effect. Has anyone gone thru this or is it something isolated? The carb has been change twice already and still the same issue.
 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sg1no74akuo
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DCb8fbINEjs
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nfm8fVci_U8

My bad, I guess a claim is worthless with out proof. The 80MPH one isnt mines. Thats a buddy of ours. We all run similar set ups with little differences. Mines set up for high 60s to low 70s. Anyways, the Baja isnt the problem. Its the SL. It seems that I cant get the tunning right on it. Its either too lean or too rich. The question Im asking is that if fact that the filter is sticking straight up in the air can cause it to force air straight into the carb while at high speeds which would cause it to run lean? The Baja and the SL have very similar set ups but the Baja has the car pointing back which wouldnt have this effect. Has anyone gone thru this or is it something isolated? The carb has been change twice already and still the same issue.

No. If the air filter is straight up it is not forcing more air into the engine. You either have an air leak or your carb needs to be rebuilt.
 
many sedans have a RAMAIR "Like" intake. look at a pic of the F1 airboxs. i supposed you could be seeing a bit of it, but i suspect gearing has some to do with the higher speeds.

but if your seeing tuning issues, you may have a small airleak that opens at higher rpms (higher case pressure) and closes up at lower rpms (lower case pressures).

you may also have a leak somewhere else too.

i don't suspect you ll get a Huge ramair effect out of one of the F1 type airboxs, but it does stand to reason, it could be a small factor in it as it scoops and forces air into the venturi. but i would suspect a intermitant airleak of some kind.

make some Stable rpm runs. low mids and highs, adn hold the throttle steady and listen for rpm changes in the motor. if you hear it up n down a bit at a steady rpm, you may have a leak.
 
mmmm

so did you check car sinse

i hope you don't have any major issues,does sound like just simple tuning issues,check and eliminate carb first and leaks in fuel lines.

hopefully just a leak.
 
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haven't had a chance to check it out since. Might go ahead and yank the motor out and inspect it when I get to the shop later. I didnt even think about the fact that it might have a small leak. It was never an issue until recently but the body I was running was totally covered. This body I have now has the front passanger window cut out (thats how I bought it). Thanks for all the advice. I'll keep you posted on the progress and when I get a chance, I'll post vid of it running.
 
ya check the motor on a bench. you can run it wheels off the ground, just don't go wot, but its ok to spool it up a bit and run it to get an idea how its going. just remember unloaded, you ll get more rpm and want to be sure your a bit richer than running. and seeing as your tuning anyways.... Just don't go to wot an hold it is all.

listen for subtle rpm changes. so go to a chosen rpm, and hold the throattle as steady as you can and listen for rpm variences. check different rpms.

first think i would do is clean the carb really well, check all the fuel lines/ clunk ect for pinholes leaks ect... spray the carb manifold cylinder & case gaskets ect with some wd 40. if you shoot the needles directly you may notice a rpm change, this goes for the oposite side of the carb too. there is a breather hole there, if you plug block it up with spray, it ll make the motor stumble a bit.

if you decide to break into the carb, the bottom inlet screen may be plugged up or the small ass needle valve in there. also check your gas cap for proper ventilation.
 
ya check the motor on a bench. you can run it wheels off the ground, just don't go wot, but its ok to spool it up a bit and run it to get an idea how its going. just remember unloaded, you ll get more rpm and want to be sure your a bit richer than running. and seeing as your tuning anyways.... Just don't go to wot an hold it is all.

listen for subtle rpm changes. so go to a chosen rpm, and hold the throattle as steady as you can and listen for rpm variences. check different rpms.

first think i would do is clean the carb really well, check all the fuel lines/ clunk ect for pinholes leaks ect... spray the carb manifold cylinder & case gaskets ect with some wd 40. if you shoot the needles directly you may notice a rpm change, this goes for the oposite side of the carb too. there is a breather hole there, if you plug block it up with spray, it ll make the motor stumble a bit.

if you decide to break into the carb, the bottom inlet screen may be plugged up or the small ass needle valve in there. also check your gas cap for proper ventilation.

I agree a 100%!

If you have trouble holding the throttle at a certain position, try using the trim knobs (or buttons) on your controller.

Like Timmaah said, spray some WD and listen for the difference. But I would recommend trying this before you pull the motor. Check around your exhaust bolts too...

Trip..
 
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Ok, here's where we're at with the SL. Had a chance to look into this issue last nigth and I had the car reving. I sprayed some WD40 as recommended all around the motor and heard no RPM changes. I reved the motor up to about half throttle, did the same thing and still no changes. I reved more and sprayed again and there was finally a drop in RPM. It has a very, very, very fine leak on the carb adapater (between carb and engine) that seemed to only to take affect when the motor was reving high. I changed that piece and put another gasket in and it seemed to take care of the issue. Its been freezing on this end the last couple of days (40 degrees :-)) so I haven't had a chance to run it yet. I'll do so tonight or tomorrow. Thanks for all of you all help
 
np, sometimes it takes more Case pressure to find them. thus the higher rpms are needed to find them. be sure to let us know how you get on.
 
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