Cylinder gasket

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Im guessing you mean cylinder head gasket

using a gasket maker as a cylinder head gasket, hmm,,,,,NOT. don't EVER..... lets see,,, reasons,,, gets all over inside of engine when head bolts are torqued which is bad,, u have no way of controlling the thickness to get proper squish,,, where the top of piston meets top of cylinder,,, bad,,, first start up will most likely produce a large noise and than boom ,, piston gone, cylinder gone,,, ,, now if u could control all that,, with the compression these engines turn and the rpms,, gasket will blow out,,, cylinder will loose proper torque and become loose,, hopefull dies before anymore damage is done,, im sure there are other reasons,,,
 
Has anybody ran a motor with just three bond or a liquid gasket maker instead of a paper or copper gasket on a cylinder ?
I was actually going to try it on my Rovan 27.5 with a CY f270 top end and the piston hit. That is how I found out the deck height was about .5mm shorter on the Rovan.
I personally think it should work. One thing to watch for is that each half of the lower case are perfectly the same heighth. They were not on my Rovan 27.5 but I was able to fix it. Here is what I did:
Loosen the bolts that hold each half of the case together just enough so that there is a little bit of movement in each half when trying to twist them opposite directions. Put on your gasket sealer and then install the top end. Tighten the top end first. This will pull each half of the case up against the cylinder so that they perfectly aligned. Then tighten the bolts to bolt each half of the case back together.
Mine was only off a tiny bit maybe .3 or .4mm but it was enough that I don't believe without a gasket in there it would have sealed properly. Again, I ended up having to use the gasket on mine but I did this procedure anyway just to try and make sure I got the best seal possible.
I say go for it and let us know.
 
Guess, I replied a little slow. Someone already told you not to do it. I still feel using something like "copper coat" and applying with your finger in the thinnest layer possible so there is basically no extra to squeeze out inside of motor when tightening the cylinder will work.
Years ago I saw a video where they micro-polished two square blocks of steel so fine that they stuck together like magnets. No glue, no magnetism, nothing and they had one heck of a time pulling them apart.
My case and the cylinder I used were machined very nice. Don't see why a little bit of adhesive and proper tightening sequence of the cylinder bolts wouldn't work. Of course I definitely realize that it might not either but I think it's worth a try.
The higher compression will make more power. That along with the f270 cylinder on mine turned it into a whole new engine. No comparison in the before and after.
 
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pretty much all stock motors run between .8-1.0 mm squish. Removing the stock gasket reduces that by about half which is pretty much where you would want it. The copper gasket silicone is very soft. Small pieces inside the motor would likely get blown out with no issues. Bigger pieces could be an issue so you would def not want gobs of it oozing inside the motor.I think the best way would be if something could be applied to the deck surface of the CC that would prevent the silicone from sticking.Apply a good layer on the cylinder base and install it on the engine. Snug the bolts but don't tighten fully, and leave it over night. You should then be able to remove the cylinder with all the silicone stuck only to it in the form of a gasket.Then carefully trim any that was squished inside. When you torque the cylinder down it will squish the gasket slightly for a good seal. However even as I,m writing this I am thinking it would be far easier to just buy a thinner gasket.:lol:
 
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