DBXL-E first run, need your assistance!

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Yehonatan Devorkin

Yehonatan Devorkin

Active Member
Messages
27
Hi all,
Today I drove for the first time my brand new Losi DBXL-E RC!
So far I've changed the receiver, as I'm using the Sanwa MT4 remote on all of my RC's.
Also added some electronics to flush the RC leds if the remote is Off.

I drove the DBXL-E at a familiar place, on a dune surface.
The RC acceleration was set to 100% on my remote controller (it can reach up to 150%).
And the steering was set to 100% as well.
I've used 2x 4S SMC 6500Mah 60C LIPOs.

Everytime I took a turn the RC got flipped.
I've decreased the steering to 80% and this behavior still happened - flips on turns.

The RC is RTR\Stock, any mods\maintanance I should perform on the shocks\shock rings\shock oils?

Also the RC body is a bit weak. any recommendations to other bodies?
Thanks in advance,
 
you running in sand only? mine seems pretty stable, not really having too many issues with the buggy flipping. I have only broken a wing mount so far.
 
A friend is running 2x 4S SMC 8000Mah Lipo's in his DBXL-E and gets 25-30 mins run time going all out.
He also put a Spectrum S9020 steering servo in.
The car is an animal. It's amazing how powerful the buggy is.
I'm running the same servo in my 5T it's a great servo very powerful.
 
I have a brushless converted DBXL. I'm not sure if there are any differences with the E version. I've read that the E is a bit lighter which should make it less prone to flip. I've changed my wheels/tires to Proline Baja rears all around with axle extenders and I have yet to flip once on grass, pavement or sand. Maybe if I threw the truck into a high speed pendulum swing and hit an off camber corner it would flip? Aside from that, it handles like it's on rails. I think the main problem is the DBXL's tall soft narrow tires. I would ditch those and run a wider firmer rubber. You'll lose a bit of speed with the smaller diameter of the Baja Tires, but I prefer them. You won't get much sidewall flex in the corners. Running 4S x 2 6000mAH 60C batteries. I find anything under 60C will puff and get hot really easily. I get about 10min run time, but I like to keep my lipos safe by running a 3.80V resting voltage cutoff. I'm sure I can get 15-20min if I run them down to 3.6V. So runtime is dependent on how much you really want to abuse your batteries.

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Today I've decided to modify the Cut-off of the DBXL-E (original ESC) voltage to higher than defaults, as Bryan K. suggested!
I'm using a combo of 2x4Cells LIPOs - Tried today the Turnigy 5K Mah, 20-30C. got fair results - 20mins of fun!
Do you know what does the Low\High means in the manual?
The Default (level 2) takes me to cut-off of 3.3v per cell! I want to change it to 3.7v minimum to save battery life!

Changing the wheels, upgrading spur\pinion are still on-hold until I'll learn how to fly this bird as half-a-pro :)
For now, I find the car body nose to be really low, it already damaged in both sides (the first screw area from the front).

Thanks!
 
Yehonatan Devorkin said:
Today I've decided to modify the Cut-off of the DBXL-E (original ESC) voltage to higher than defaults, as Bryan K. suggested!
I'm using a combo of 2x4Cells LIPOs - Tried today the Turnigy 5K Mah, 20-30C. got fair results - 20mins of fun!
Do you know what does the Low\High means in the manual?
The Default (level 2) takes me to cut-off of 3.3v per cell! I want to change it to 3.7v minimum to save battery life!

Changing the wheels, upgrading spur\pinion are still on-hold until I'll learn how to fly this bird as half-a-pro :)
For now, I find the car body nose to be really low, it already damaged in both sides (the first screw area from the front).

Thanks!
Click to expand...


I believe it's the same ESC as a Hobbywing max6. I have a Max5 and this is the response I got from hobbywing about the low voltage Cutoff.

(Thank you for running HOBBYWING. The voltage cutoff is based on the battery you use so there aren't specific values tied to each setting hence the auto.

Since we do not know what type of battery our users will be using, we suggest going off the following:

If you use a high quality battery (new, less than 6 months old, above 60C), you can use the "low" setting as the current will be consistent and your MAX5 will be able to detect if the voltage goes too low with enough time to act on it, protecting the ESC/system.

If you use a lower quality battery (purchase from HK, eBaby, etc, less than 60C rating, more than 6 months old), consider using the "high" setting to protect your system as there will most likely be irregular spikes of current being pushed through your system and the MAX5 may not be able to detect it in time.

If you have additional questions about this please do not hesitate to contact our Technical Support Department by calling (800)720-2351, ext #2. )
 
I've got some questions as a new owner of Losi DBXL-E model.
Which issues did you have with the car while unboxing it or on the first runs of it?
I found so far:
- Both screws of the servo-saver (top & bottom) were loosed.
- The screw of the Servo horn and servo was also loosed
- The model body breaks pretty easy where the screw is... I tried to use 3M glue (dual layer) and washers without luck.
- The Auto cut-off of the ESC took my 2x 4Cells Lipos to 3.3v.
- The black box of the model body (where the driver's seat) getting punches from the car internal parts (like the center diff. house) which damages it
- Front sway bar get loose from the plastic parts that catch it

Have you found anything else?
 
Yehonatan Devorkin said:
I've got some questions as a new owner of Losi DBXL-E model.
Which issues did you have with the car while unboxing it or on the first runs of it?
I found so far:
- Both screws of the servo-saver (top & bottom) were loosed.
- The screw of the Servo horn and servo was also loosed
- The model body breaks pretty easy where the screw is... I tried to use 3M glue (dual layer) and washers without luck.
- The Auto cut-off of the ESC took my 2x 4Cells Lipos to 3.3v.
- The black box of the model body (where the driver's seat) getting punches from the car internal parts (like the center diff. house) which damages it
- Front sway bar get loose from the plastic parts that catch it

Have you found anything else?
Click to expand...

With any 1/5 scale it's highly recommended that you go through it before running it and loctite any screws/bolts that are going into any Metal. As far as the body they are going to break unfortunately but with some drywall tape and shoe goo you can repair it pretty well.
 
Which oil should I fill on my front shocks? I think I've got a leak from it, since box as well.
Would like to purchase the oil before I'll open the shock.

Also, today I've removed the "driver's seat" in the model body, it broke due to impact from the jumps.
 
The HR servo saver works great for me. Steel balls better than brass bushings. When you are installing it, you can tell how much smoother it is. It looks great, at least when it's clean and I found it a perfect fit. The Losi aluminum horn is hardly an upgrade and is ugly. It's not like the stock nylon one is flexing. Get the HR or save your money. I'm not sure if anything FID makes will fit the E.

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