DBXL front and rear hub carriers?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Messages
1,364
Reaction score
2,363
Location
Central New Jersey
I just broke one on my DBXL and just wanted to hear opinions from people who are using the original plastic ones and also upgraded aluminum versions.I would love to see pics and which brands you are using and if after a crash what parts broke after upgrading to the aluminum versions sort of a pro's and con's list and what to expect after a crash with the stronger upgrade.
 
evssv please excuse my extreme lack of knowledge but the carriers are only on the front correct so the hubs on the rear kind of eliminate any weak point other than the turnbuckle end which is still made of plastic.The front carriers I am guessing are what you are referring to as being the only weak point left?The pic on top is the rear hub and the lower is the front carrier I am guessing and do you have any pics of yours and did you have any crashes after upgrading?

1576514486087.webp
1576514714480.webp
 
I went with the losi brand. The alloy is funky colors that don't match, but the bearings sit much more snug. I never broke the stock plastic, they just didn't hold the bearings as well after a few years of changing them. The upgrade seemed to make the steering a bit more rigid and consistent, but mabey its placebo. I think as long as you keep the arms plastic, that should be what fails, I haven't damaged my hubs yet. 15765190934663730346909200348567.webp15765191228434079658786819775311.webp
 
I've got the fid front and rear carriers. The rears were good but the hinge pins did not fit the front properly and i had to machine the holes in the carrier larger. Disappointed from such an expensive brand. They looked and performed great though. Keep the arms stock plastic.
 

Attachments

  • Screenshot_20191216-144441.webp
    Screenshot_20191216-144441.webp
    35.9 KB · Views: 19
Hey Bryan K what are the upper and lower bolts in the pic for I am guessing they are so the bearings are snug inside the hub?I know it is a solid piece of aluminum but if they are tightened they must deform it just enough to make it a bit harder for the bearing to slip out.

Savage Ken and Bryan K after upgrading did you guys have any big crashes and did anything else related to the hubs break instead of the hubs?
 
Hey Bryan K what are the upper and lower bolts in the pic for I am guessing they are so the bearings are snug inside the hub?I know it is a solid piece of aluminum but if they are tightened they must deform it just enough to make it a bit harder for the bearing to slip out.

Savage Ken and Bryan K after upgrading did you guys have any big crashes and did anything else related to the hubs break instead of the hubs?

If I remember correctly the bolt there is not used. They have an optional FID disc brake kit that goes on the hubs which uses that mount for something. It has nothing to do with the bearing.

I race my rigs, but I don't abuse them. So I guess I'm not really the person you should be asking. I like to take care of my stuff so it's always immaculately clean and well oiled. I'm not much of a basher. Jumps and smacking into things isn't really my cup of tea.
 
All the crashes and hard landings I've had, ive never broken a carrier or hub. Normally it's a busted a arm. But I will echo the sentiment that there needs to be a weak link in the system.
 
I rolled it twice the first roll was nothing too bad but the second one was a bit rough and it broke the carrier. You can see the beginning of the roll at the very end of the clip I posted. I will definitely keep a weak connection in there somewhere. I never bothered looking for replacement plastic arms for it does anyone other than FLM make them?
 
I always thought the stock plastic arms were pretty beefy. That may be why companies like RPM never bothered to make any replacements for it. I only replaced my arms with the same plastic stock ones because mine were looking a bit rough from getting sand blasted at the track. I think if you roll over such a big heavy buggy enough, it would snap any plastic arms. For sure better that it's plastic than aluminum. I was so tempted as Aliexpress had a sale and they were $90CDN for a full set of FID aluminum arms! The only reason I'd consider aluminum was so I could run the DDM HD Springs and they would stop bending my stock arms with all the added preload. Crazy how much preload those things have.
 
I always thought the stock plastic arms were pretty beefy. That may be why companies like RPM never bothered to make any replacements for it. I only replaced my arms with the same plastic stock ones because mine were looking a bit rough from getting sand blasted at the track. I think if you roll over such a big heavy buggy enough, it would snap any plastic arms. For sure better that it's plastic than aluminum. I was so tempted as Aliexpress had a sale and they were $90CDN for a full set of FID aluminum arms! The only reason I'd consider aluminum was so I could run the DDM HD Springs and they would stop bending my stock arms with all the added preload. Crazy how much preload those things have.
Did they bend more than 1 set of arms? I run the DDM springs on the front only, and have for over a year. My arms are still fine.
 
All 4 arms are bent. I didn't even notice it until I replaced the arms and compared them. They aren't straight. The bend occurs right where the shock mounts to the arm. It pushes down and pivots the arm downwards in that exact location. It has been months since I've had the old arms removed and they've self straightened a bit, but they are still noticeably bent. I won't run those HD springs for that reason. Whether they bend the arms or not, nobody can deny that there shouldn't be that much static preload when there isn't even weight applied. You have to compress the HD springs hard just to mount them on the shock. That doesn't make any sense. I've never seen any RC shock/spring designed like this. Even with the preload collar all the way out, the weight doesn't compress the springs at all in the rear.

There's a German company out there (can't remember the name) which makes several proper sets of "shortened" springs in different stiffnesses for the DBXL. Those are designed properly and IMO the DDM springs were a very lazy design. I doubt they were tested in any way. I was already skeptical of the DDM design from the get go. That german company also makes the wing for the DBXL. I'll post the link when I find it.

Here's the link...

https://rc-car-online.de/en/product...uning-springs-dirt-spring-dbxl-xl-e-mtxl.html

The description they provided actually sums up exactly what I've been saying.

From their website...

"The Desert Buggy XL stock springs use a high preload, which is even bigger than the shock’s travel. This means that the stock spring action increases not that much going through the available suspension travel. To handle hard impacts high viscosity oil is used in the shocks; however, this oil is too heavy for these springs for a proper rebound. A sensible suspension tuning becomes much pretty difficult.

For this reason, the tuning springs Dirt-Spring Desert Buggy XL are shorter than the stock springs, but also use heavier gauge wire in return. Therefore the change in spring action during the suspension travel is noticeably higher than the preload; the suspension settings can be influenced more effectively."

What I've been saying all along is that the DDM springs are designed to take hard impacts from jumps, but handling wise they're just terrible. There's no suspension travel unless all you do is land hard jumps! I've discussed this in another thread a while ago. I'm not expert in suspension, but I did work in sales and technical support for H&R and Bilstein Canada for 5 years.

I guess the DDM HD springs were designed as a band aid solution for the bashers who bottom out their rigs too often from landing hard jumps. The racer and Losi fan in me says the springs aren't designed properly.
 
Last edited:
Ok, so let's clear one thing up right now. The heavier spring did not bend your arms. How you ran your dbxl bent your arms. You've also notice considerable chassis flex in your dbxl too. I have a feeling jumping the poop out of it has something to do with how your db has been holding up. Trust me, I've had mine for years. Bought it used and never noticed those types of issues. Do the stock shocks suck? Fek yes. Do the DDM springs suck? Fek yes. Are they the direct cause of your a arms bending? Hell no. Are the DDM spring a band aid ? Yeah I'll agree with that too. Your company, listed has a decent solution. But at the end if the day the stock shocks in any form (imo) suck. In fact they suck so bad they could pull the chrome off a hitch ball. I'm not saying swapping out to 5ive shocks is needed for everyone, but I'd have a hell of a lot less time and money into fixing a crap design if I did. And they wont put too much preload on your suspension, or passively allow your arms to bend from too much preload. Somethings gotta give.
 
Back
Top