different path on this one

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lorraine

Well-Known Member
Messages
283
Location
new york
I installed a 19 tooth top black gear and the rest of the black gear set from DDM in a CNC trans case and did the top hat mod to the PCSC to run the hostile gears for a buggy build. Got the IRC diff housing and his big bore shocks all around. Took the 1 inch extended hubs and machined .100 off the hex face that goes into rim pockets.......BUT I am now running the 180mm MCD buggy rims with GRP rubber and a set of losi 5 buggy pre glued and will NEVER look back to beadlocks again. By dumping a tooth in gearbox and slipper mod done the buggy handles like a dream and pushing the larger wheels is nothing now and rollout is much improved. The buggy has only the rx box and fuel tank left that is factory. Gizzmo did up a super mod for me and I did in my shop a full mod 990wt with gizzmo's SS high flow shaft kit with notched butterfly and CNC control arm .Played with the walbro master spring kit and found meter spring that gave me a pop off of 13psi and a reseat of 10psi and it now has way more clean carb punch and the primer bulb is always full with no air bubbles at WOT passes and starts with one pull when cold, Pretty good for no choke! . A booster pipe from the Detroit boys takes care of the fart gasses and a super freeflo R2C air element hooked to a bartolone 2 piece stack and carb bolts up to a RB heat sink manifold. Running Sunoco Surge race fuel and 927 oil at 18:1 the motor got a dyno run sheet of 8.97 HP. 18:1 mix gave us the most power as Gizzmo's said it would and the extra oil does make more BTUs and it shows. The Surge race fuel is also 100% E free and makes great power without ultra high octane and does not attack the lube package in the oil. All in all the chassis handles like a dream and goes like a raped rocket. I also have a red race rotor ignition system to try out but was told the plastic fans in kit does not move much air so I will try it in a OBR reed case motor and if it smokes the motor I will not feel bad for the loss. Going to dump some beer down my piehole and will add to the list as the build gets bigger, Have a good one!!!!!!!
 
machine back your hex hubs on the HPI .100 so you can run your losi buggy wheel sets and change the top gear in gearbox from 20 tooth buggy to 19 tooth truck and never run the smaller beadlocks again. .100 off your hexes will allow to have enough threads to be safe and still run the HPI type wheel but also the GRP , MCD , LOSI larger buggy rims all in one hub setup !
 
we have all our hostiles full of ice screws as we have our large pond cleared, skim flooded and now like a sheet of glass= FAST!!!!!!. been getting down to 0 degrees almost every night, the ice is wicked hard and screws are bite'n in great !
 
just in the last year or so we started to rip out the centers on all of our silver back rims , I think they changed the plastic in sum way as they don't hold up well anymore like they did before. That is why we now use the GRPs as I can glue up a full set of bomb proof tire sets pretty quick....LOL
 
NADA !!!!!!!!!! But the wheel stays in one piece and keep's on rolling still on car with no cartwheels down the field!!!!! LOL
I see you got your grab handle on top of cage, I had to take mine off as our horse one day figgered out he could grab it and run like hell with my buggy. We think he see's it like the handles on his throw balls out in pasture. He ran around with my 28lb buggy in his mouth like it was a matchbox toy. My wife was laughing so hard I think she pee'd herself....
you might want to get the cheapest set of aluminum rims that king/rovan makes then you can put the power to them or get that pcsc top hat in and gear it to what you like. Keep in mind that slipper is no longer made so any parts for them you come across scoop them up for spares. The last new in box slipper kit we bought came out of deep Russia. bit and pieces we buy up from all over the globe. In summer we run the R/C Max GT 40s and the slippers save our bank accounts from going flat from busted up drivelines
 
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